Mono Block Amp Question
two connections on the outside of the amp are connected together on the inside, so it's really a single connection.
ok dude this is what u do, i'll put it point form
- get a class D amp (normally a single channel amp aka mono amp) that can do 500 RMS watts at a 1 ohm load
- from the model number of the sub u mentioned it appears that subs are dual 4 ohm
- you wire up each coil on the sub, and then the two subs together in this manner

- in the end you should one positive wire and one negative wire after the subs have been connected together. you take those 2 wires and connect them to the amplifier's positive and negative speaker outputs.
- how many positive and negative terminals the amp has on the outside makes no difference since they are all connected together inside - it is a 1 channel amp (sometimes with more than one set of speaker outputs)
enjoy.
ok dude this is what u do, i'll put it point form
- get a class D amp (normally a single channel amp aka mono amp) that can do 500 RMS watts at a 1 ohm load
- from the model number of the sub u mentioned it appears that subs are dual 4 ohm
- you wire up each coil on the sub, and then the two subs together in this manner

- in the end you should one positive wire and one negative wire after the subs have been connected together. you take those 2 wires and connect them to the amplifier's positive and negative speaker outputs.
- how many positive and negative terminals the amp has on the outside makes no difference since they are all connected together inside - it is a 1 channel amp (sometimes with more than one set of speaker outputs)
enjoy.
........... if you're nice to Yuli, he'll give you his old burnt out gear for free. 
Anyways, Yuli's info is dead nutz on the money, except the 500 watts part. Get a 600 watt one ohm stable mono-block (Class D). And don't buy crap just cause it's cheap as you will regret it eventually. As much as buying car audio is a complete waste of money, at least if you buy decent gear, when it comes time to upgrade, you can flip it and get something back out versus junk that you just toss in the garbage. And to add to that, you get something that works well too............ not something that you have to heave out all the time and send back to get fixed.
Good luck

Anyways, Yuli's info is dead nutz on the money, except the 500 watts part. Get a 600 watt one ohm stable mono-block (Class D). And don't buy crap just cause it's cheap as you will regret it eventually. As much as buying car audio is a complete waste of money, at least if you buy decent gear, when it comes time to upgrade, you can flip it and get something back out versus junk that you just toss in the garbage. And to add to that, you get something that works well too............ not something that you have to heave out all the time and send back to get fixed.
Good luck
Last edited by Junkinthetrunk; Nov 6, 2007 at 07:08 AM.


