Morel for sure, I am not sure about the mounting depth issue but will look into that for you when I make it into the shop later today. (I am supposed to be putting siding on right now).

Look into DLS.

I have a set of UP6 components in the front and they are rated for 150 WRms iirc.

Many of the low/mid level DLS sets are rated relatively high, but as many here will tell you, power handling is only ONE aspect of the driver, and you should consider other features before making a decision based just on pwer handling.

John

i had my focal access 6.5 on my 4 channel infinity bridged to 2 channels, some were around 200 rms a side and they loved it

What I presume he means is how much a voice coil can handle thermally. And he asked for coaxials, but since I see a lot of component sets being thrown around, I will have to say that DLS Nobelium has a 3" voice coil, so imagine that. It seems at least 500 wrms a side is in order. Thats pretty funny.

Well I've got a JBL 4 channel amp rated for 100W channel at 4 ohms, and about 130W channel at 2 ohms.

I know it's not alot, but I'm just looking for something that will take all that power and utilize the capacity of the amp to throw out some more volume, without blowing and having to swap them out.

This is going to be my 3rd purchase of mids/highs.

Check this link out. Don't think you'll have the money to spend on these though. Just copy and paste the link bro.

http://mobile.bostonacoustics.com/car/car_product.aspx?category_id=14&family_id=136&prod uct_id=401

Or even this one is good as well. Copy and paste the link as well.

http://mobile.bostonacoustics.com/car/car_product.aspx?category_id=14&family_id=20&produ ct_id=297

Those looks really cool.

Too bad they're too deep for my door mounting depth, and apparently cost an arm and a leg even on ebay.

One thing nobody has pointed out so far is the fact that those factory ratings are based on feeding the speakers a full range signal. If you take a closer look at the specs they probably start at 50hz or so up to 20Khz. In a properly set-up system your 5.25" fronts are going to be high-pass filtered much higher than that. Typical installs without front midbass drivers are set at at least 80hz, if you have mercy on the speakers you might set it as high as 120hz.

I have usually found that a 5.25" component set or coax can handle at least twice the rated power if all the sub and most of the midbass is removed from the signal. I have JL XR series components in my work van rolled off at 400hz and feed them 150w no problem. However, I also use 2 Orion MB6 midbass drivers in each door for the bottom end, cutting them off at 80hz and letting my subs handle the grunt work.

While midbass frequencies do form part of the stereo image, some people find getting midbass from larger (6 X 9") drivers in the rear of the vehicle is acceptable. Some others find that the image is distorted or 'mushy' for lack of a better word at the moment and they either use a larger (6.5") driver up front or add dedicated midbass drivers. Unfortunately, either one of these solutions adds to the difficulty and cost of doing the install.....:dunno:

HTH

love it

I currently use 6x9s on the rear deck but am swapping them out with 6.25's since I read an article saying how they distort the bass, because their oval shape has the cone restricted by the surrounds at the far narrow ends. Push a 6x9 upward from behind and you can see the resistance on the ends. The argument is that apparently the only reason they even make oval speakers are to have a factory drop-in replacement for cars. High end home audio speakers are usually nothing but round.

I wanted to use all 6.25s but my front doors will not allow the mounting hole size or depth without some modifications I can't be bothered with to do, so I gotta go with 5.25s.

Right now, there's practically no bass except from my sub, and I have a gap in the mid-bass I'd like to fill.

I've tried going without rear fill, and it just doesn't sound right.