Seems for some reason my USA-2000x kicked the can. It just needs some things de-soldered and replaced, anyone know of a place to do this? I have been trying to desolder the damn parts and its not as easy as i thought it would be.

add gobs of solder to the 3 pins - swirl your iron
around a bit.. the remove part with plyers.
Then suck up the rest of the solder with a sucker.

I have one of the desoldering irons from radio shack. Prolly not the best for de-soldering but its all i could find. I just cant seem to get the solder to heat up and get sucked up on some of the places. I dont wanan scratch up the board anymore than I have already so if someone knows a place in the GTA that will repair it for fairly cheap that would be awesome.

chem wick is what you want for desoldering
connections radio shack will have this
do not use solder to heat up your connection.

once the chem wick has sucked all the solder off the part you can remove safely however some parts
can be double printed and soldered on both sides of the board carefull not to heat it up to much.

good luck!!

Good luck getting that to work with most transistors.. maybe I had a bad brand.

[url]http://www.radioshack.ca/estore/Product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=RadioShack&category=Soldering+Tools&pro duct=6402090[url]

is that what you recommend? I hope that stuff will work cause I wanna get down to active surplus and get the replacement parts ASAP.

thats the stuff [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]

the place your buying your parts should also carry chem wick maybe cheaper [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]

Aight i will go check it out tommorow, thanks for the help [img]smile.gif[/img] . I just hope im not ****ing up the board of my amp and that this will fix the problem. Now if I could only figure out why the amp will stay on without the remote wire even connected:(.

thanks for the tip on the desoldering btraid, that helped make the process easier. I still need to go down to active surplus to get the replacement parts. Pretty much what im guessing happened is the amp overheated from being on for a very long time and blew the amplifier section on the board. 18 of those cylinder cap looking pieces blew and the amp goes straight into protection if it was hooked up. I still dont know how im suppose to figure out why the remote part of the amp is busted and the amp wont turn off.

Anyone know what I should be looking for on the board as far as the remote connection to turn the amp on?

I think that was confusing what i posted above:S.

To clarify so i can get some help, my amp will stay on when power and ground are connected to the amp even without a remote wire being attached. IT doesnt look as though the remote connection is touching any of the power connections so im not sure why its doing this. Any idea what i should look for on the board that would be connected to the remote wire problem?

Milo at US Amps does a good job with repairs and hes quick ... not easy or cheep shipping but it is an option

Well if it doenst work with installing the new stuff im either gonna source out someone in toronto or ship it to USamps.

hey,
contact Eddie (chinaman) from this board. he knows someone he may recommend

Thanks, i will pm him.

Still wondering what on the board is used as a relay to turn the amp on.

usually the amp is turned on by transisors
and the power supply which is usually run by a 16 pin occilator chip

so should i just trace the the path coming from the remote connection and see if anything looks burnt or wrong?

http://usamps.com/products/inv/usa-2000_bottom_01.jpg

Tough to see the board in this picture but can anyone point me at a possible source of the amp staying on issue?

usually most blown parts are not visable
its only when your lucky the part explodes and then you can narrow down the problem
i would highly reccomend you have somebody who knows what there doing repair the amp
you can go out and purchase all the parts
and if you miss one part you risk blowing up all the parts you just replaced
not a nice feeling trust me

thanks for the advice. If you look on the link what blew on the board is the 18 cap looking parts in the middle of the board. I have desoldered just about all of them and im gonna replace those. If it doesnt work after that im gonna be pissed but i will have a professional look at the amp.

those devices are capacitors and they probably blew form either reverse voltage
which i can't see happening as they probably after the power supply
or over voltage
usually caps have a x put in them
is it blown open?

Give it to Mark Bruno.

He can be emailed through Kankar.com

Yes they have an x in the middle of them. Pretty much all 18 of them blew except for 1 or 2 of them. I am hoping after replacing them with new ones the amp will work fine:).

I dont think the amp saw reverse voltage so im not sure why they blew. MY guess was the fact the amp was on for over 24 hours because of the turn on issue.