New install pics! 3 day install!!
quote "Buzz - I am curious why you feel a ClassD would not benefit from baremetal mounting?"
That's not what I meant.... I meant that a class D does not get hot like an class A or A/B amp can.
quote "The best solution if you want to be absolutely sure is to run a cable from your battery to the body, then from the body to the trunk where it attaches to the trunk floor"
Exactly... that's what I did in my ride, upgrade ALL of the grounds under the hood etc.
That's not what I meant.... I meant that a class D does not get hot like an class A or A/B amp can.
quote "The best solution if you want to be absolutely sure is to run a cable from your battery to the body, then from the body to the trunk where it attaches to the trunk floor"
Exactly... that's what I did in my ride, upgrade ALL of the grounds under the hood etc.
Originally Posted by Buzz
..beeep..
Nice clean install. One thing....did you say your ground cable came straight from the battery? The ground cable needs to be as short as possible from the cap and amps to a solid, paint free body ground to avoid picking up noise (preferably no longer than 12").
my 2 cents
Nice clean install. One thing....did you say your ground cable came straight from the battery? The ground cable needs to be as short as possible from the cap and amps to a solid, paint free body ground to avoid picking up noise (preferably no longer than 12").
my 2 cents
Originally Posted by Buzz
..beeep..
Also, I can't tell too well from the pics but, if the amp mounted to the underside of the rear deck is bolted directly to bare metal (no carpet), the deck will actually help dissipate heat from the amp, unless the amp is a class d amplifier. Don't see any problems with mounting it there.
my 2 cents
Also, I can't tell too well from the pics but, if the amp mounted to the underside of the rear deck is bolted directly to bare metal (no carpet), the deck will actually help dissipate heat from the amp, unless the amp is a class d amplifier. Don't see any problems with mounting it there.
my 2 cents
having your neg to the battery give you a line with the same # to all your amps/deck/cap so less loops in the neg
but you need to do the deck to the line of 0,2,or 4 to the bettery
i do like this set up
i use a pg 10f powergrid
Last edited by zzzzzzz; Jun 24, 2006 at 11:48 AM.
Many car today are held togther more by apoxy then by welds. And the welds are generally tacks at best. I'm using an 0/2 awg for both + and - and havent had any problems. And my system draws alot of current.
Looks good SASS.
Looks good SASS.
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 24
from everything that i have read over the last couple of years, including a seminar with gary biggs and mark eldridge as hosts, i have ascertained that caps are useless in most applications, unless the supply to the amp is very short, 6-12 inches long, and at best are a band-aid to most problems they are recommended for, but i continually see them in install after install, seems like a waste of time and about a hundred bucks.....unless i am missing something...
