Opinions on over powering subs
10-24-2010, 03:16 PM
#1
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 57
Opinions on over powering subs
So i've heard that you should over power your subs a little by less then 20%.
However the local stereo shop that told me was pretty vague. my experience is its ok to overpower by the rms ratings but definitly not on the peak power.
If that peak power rating ever served a purpose it to save you from burning up voice coils.
Any other opinions?
However the local stereo shop that told me was pretty vague. my experience is its ok to overpower by the rms ratings but definitly not on the peak power.
If that peak power rating ever served a purpose it to save you from burning up voice coils.
Any other opinions?
10-24-2010, 04:10 PM
#2
if a subwoofer is rated at 500rms, i would look for an amp thats around 700rms to power it. reason being is that not all amps will make rated power. you also have more headroom and cleaner power, if the gains are set corectly
10-24-2010, 04:48 PM
#3
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 57
Ya its not rms im talking about really.
But you have a point if your dealing with overrated amps but my alpine is rated at 500 but comes with a little card from alpine that says 718 watts. And it cooked a 400watt sub and the gains were set just below clipping.
But the peak of the sub was only 800 watts and the peak of the amp is 1000. My old sub was 300 rms with a peak of 1200 and no problems. My new new sub is 500 watts rms 1200
But you have a point if your dealing with overrated amps but my alpine is rated at 500 but comes with a little card from alpine that says 718 watts. And it cooked a 400watt sub and the gains were set just below clipping.
But the peak of the sub was only 800 watts and the peak of the amp is 1000. My old sub was 300 rms with a peak of 1200 and no problems. My new new sub is 500 watts rms 1200
10-24-2010, 06:57 PM
#5
Yankee
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,599
Ya its not rms im talking about really.
But you have a point if your dealing with overrated amps but my alpine is rated at 500 but comes with a little card from alpine that says 718 watts. And it cooked a 400watt sub and the gains were set just below clipping.
But the peak of the sub was only 800 watts and the peak of the amp is 1000. My old sub was 300 rms with a peak of 1200 and no problems. My new new sub is 500 watts rms 1200
But you have a point if your dealing with overrated amps but my alpine is rated at 500 but comes with a little card from alpine that says 718 watts. And it cooked a 400watt sub and the gains were set just below clipping.
But the peak of the sub was only 800 watts and the peak of the amp is 1000. My old sub was 300 rms with a peak of 1200 and no problems. My new new sub is 500 watts rms 1200
x2 I am sorry big Pappa but you have it backwards your 500 watt RMS amp cooked your 400 watt RMS speaker
10-25-2010, 02:34 PM
#7
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 849
Just use your ears and be the judge, But some people just crank the out of amps and don't have the slightest clew what they are doing.
When dealing with audio equipment it's very important to pay attention to what you are doing and what you are hearing, Audio is so expensive so I think people should take it very seriously...
When dealing with audio equipment it's very important to pay attention to what you are doing and what you are hearing, Audio is so expensive so I think people should take it very seriously...
10-25-2010, 08:33 PM
#10
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 730
Just use your ears and be the judge, But some people just crank the out of amps and don't have the slightest clew what they are doing.
When dealing with audio equipment it's very important to pay attention to what you are doing and what you are hearing, Audio is so expensive so I think people should take it very seriously...
When dealing with audio equipment it's very important to pay attention to what you are doing and what you are hearing, Audio is so expensive so I think people should take it very seriously...
Big Pappa,
RMS ratings are a loose guideline at best, but they are the best guideline to follow at the same time lol. Power handling will depend on frequency as well. A driver designed to handle a wider spectrum of frequencies won't have a higher RMS rating than one destined for a more narrow frequency range. For subs, they generally will only ever operate in the 15-120Hz range. A fullrange driver will handle (for arguements sake only) 55-20,000Hz. Even though the driver may be able to handle 50WRMS @ 100Hz, it may only be able to handle 30 or 40WRMS @ 9,000Hz. Subs are easier to work with when choosing amps/drivers imo. Manufacturers will test the drivers in specific ways (each mfg is different, so you gotta do the legwork on your own to find out how they test). They do it over extended periods of time to determine what it can handle under "normal" operating conditions. This usually means they beat the **** out of a driver until it fails, record the data, rinse and repeat until some repeatable/measurable results start to show. Once it's within a range that is marketable and able to carry a warranty, it gets sent out the door with the XXXX WRMS rating. There is headroom built in (mostly for warranty purpose), but generally speaking, you'll want to match the rms rating of a woofer to an amp that will put out maybe 50-100wrms (headroom of a different kind) above what the sub is rated at. The headroom on the amp ensures the amp won't be working at full capacity to drive the woofer effectively (power fluctuates with frequency and volume) without clipping/distortion. Easier on the amp, in short terms. Of course, proper gain setting is crucial (I think what Darin was referring to), but I think you'll find that not a whole lot of gain will be needed the more headroom you give on the amp side.
