Resin
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You can also get different colour dyes to add to the resin, so you can tell where you have done already. For example you could do a layer of red, then for the next layer in blue so you know how many layers you have done, and where you still have to do.
Hey guys thanks a lot putting the kick panel under a dehumidifier in the basement caused the panel to setup quite well and a lot faster as opposed to letting it just dry on its own. The dehumidifier is vented to the outside of the house. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img] Me and my buddy mixed the resin better yesterday and this morning it was hard as rock so its all good thanks for the input.
[img]graemlins/beer.gif[/img]
[ March 03, 2004, 11:54 AM: Message edited by: 152.5 with one sub aint bad ]
[img]graemlins/beer.gif[/img][ March 03, 2004, 11:54 AM: Message edited by: 152.5 with one sub aint bad ]
Well, resin kicks best at 70 degrees fahrenheit.
You should never exceed 3% catalyst as we are told by our superviser and the resin and catalyst supplier.
Another tip would be if you were doing multiple layers of mat or chop you do one layer at a time and you have to leave it and come back when it`s fully cured , scuff up the fiberglass with 36 grit (or 80) then do your next layer
. This will make it stronger. After a few layers of mat or chop you can put on some core mat on it to thicken it up yet again to make it stronger.
Colored catalyst is mostly used for a chop gun. the main reason is that the guy that is chopping knows where he went. it stays red when it's wet,then when it cures, it drys clear. At work when glassing small stuff we use non colored catalyst, because it isn`t that important too see where we go.
Also if you buy fire retardent resin,this will also slow down the cure time, and it`s even more stickey to work with.
Now if you put way way to much catalyst in your resin it wont dry (happend twice at work, rookies,past the smoke and fire stage.)
At work we go through a 45 gallon drum of resin a day! An average shelf life up to 1 year anything after that it`s no good.It will strat too gel up on you without catalyst. Use a small metal roller to make shure all of the air bubbles are out of the mat or chop or else it will be very brittle where the air bubbles are. Acetone (sp) works best for cleaning up you hands and rollers.
You should never exceed 3% catalyst as we are told by our superviser and the resin and catalyst supplier.
Another tip would be if you were doing multiple layers of mat or chop you do one layer at a time and you have to leave it and come back when it`s fully cured , scuff up the fiberglass with 36 grit (or 80) then do your next layer
. This will make it stronger. After a few layers of mat or chop you can put on some core mat on it to thicken it up yet again to make it stronger.Colored catalyst is mostly used for a chop gun. the main reason is that the guy that is chopping knows where he went. it stays red when it's wet,then when it cures, it drys clear. At work when glassing small stuff we use non colored catalyst, because it isn`t that important too see where we go.
Also if you buy fire retardent resin,this will also slow down the cure time, and it`s even more stickey to work with.
Now if you put way way to much catalyst in your resin it wont dry (happend twice at work, rookies,past the smoke and fire stage.)
At work we go through a 45 gallon drum of resin a day! An average shelf life up to 1 year anything after that it`s no good.It will strat too gel up on you without catalyst. Use a small metal roller to make shure all of the air bubbles are out of the mat or chop or else it will be very brittle where the air bubbles are. Acetone (sp) works best for cleaning up you hands and rollers.


