Just mount them as high on the dash as you can put them, that what I have done with my 1991 civic and its yielded 2 first place victories for me in sq, dont waste you time with a pillar mounts in that car. Plus good choice on the deck, I run 9813 in my car and it sounds spectacular.

why does everyone put f-ing tweets in the f-ing a-pillar, does anyone but me understand this????? </font>[/QUOTE]To help raise the stage. :confused: </font>[/QUOTE]to raise the stage make the distance further,,,not shorter!!!!!!! nothing like killing the highs in your face! [img]graemlins/banghead.gif[/img] </font>[/QUOTE]Seems to work ok for lots of people, including lots of world champions. Of course you know way more than anyone else I'm sure since you bag on FS.

Tweets in the corners......

where the windshield meets the A Pillars. Aim the tweeters toward middle of car - as in right tweet to right ear of driver and left tweet to left ear of passenger - or there abouts (depends on the on/off axis performance of your tweets. Use regular plasticene &lt;sp?&gt; or non hardening clay at first to find the "sweet spot". Then use whatever material you like to make your pods. I made mine out of air dry clay (cheap at Michaels) and covered it up in matching speaker cloth. I'm not good at installs (lack patience), but the sound I get from the system more than makes up for my lack of patience - rather spend the time listening and tweeking. BTW, the location described above does not work with all cars. In my case (89Civic Hatch) it does. Should for you too, since the CRX has almost the same, if not identical, glass angle and interior.

Another possibility I've been thinking about, but hadn't had the time to do, is to make a pedestal mount (for lack of a better word) for the tweets located in the flat spot in the corner of the dash that someone else mentioned previously, and point the tweets straight up. The angle of the windshield seems right. Now the behaviour of sound cannot be predicted or explained, for that matter, but it might be an interesting venture. The pedestal will have to be height adjustable, so different heights can be tried out. Angle the tweets slightly and rotate it....... OK, I'm post whoring again, aren't I? I know what people are going to say about bouncing sound off glass and all, but done right, the sound stage may improve (maybe imaging might be a disaster). Anyway............

hth

[ December 24, 2004, 03:14 AM: Message edited by: mugen1 ]

Thanks for all the replies.

I've gone ahead and purchased some focal polyglass 165v components. I'll be bridging an Alpine MRV-F340 to power them. Using the head unit to power stock speakers in the rear for fill (Will probably buy some cheapy 6 1/2" coaxials in the future to replace them). I've decided to go the sub route and put a sealed box in the back, but not in the spare tire well area. Probably in the rear hatch area on the passenger side like Pioneer Guy mentioned.

So my new dilemma is what sub/amp combo to acquire. I've got a line on a 10" Alpine Type 'S' sub($100 used), running off an Alpine MRD M300 class D mono amp($170 used). But at a stereo shop, I listened to the Type 'S' and a Type 'R' (both 10" and both in ported boxes) and I liked the Type 'R' much more. I don't know how to explain it, but it just sounded better and tighter. The bass had a nicer snap and less underlying drone as opposed to the Type 'S'(which I found a bit taxing on the ears). What specifically causes this in the build quality of an sub? What should I look for in a sub that's geared more towards SQ? (and does anyone have a used 10" Type R they're getting rid of? :D )

When I mentioned the Class D amp, I was advised against it by a few guys. I was told it's not that great and to just run the sub off a good 2 channel amp ( bridged ). Anything I should keep in mind on my search? Any reason why class D amps aren't all that great?

My 3 options right now are

1. Just get the Type 'S' and alpine mono amp for around $300.
2. Wait and look for another used sub/amp combo for around $300.
3. Purchase something at cost at Best Buy. Rockford Fosgate P310D4 Punch 10" Car Subwoofer & Rockford Fosgate P3002 2-Channel Car Amplifier Providing it all comes in at around $300.

[ December 29, 2004, 10:55 PM: Message edited by: JASON_ALT13 ]