Hmmm so i'm driving to work, all of a sudden it kinda sounds like the cd is skipping, thats kinda weird fairly new mp3 cd...next song, same diff....radio, same thing uh oh!

So it's hard to describe....it's not skipping....i guess just seems like something is intermittently getting power. So off go's the stereo for the rest of the drive to work (i was heart broken).

After job-1, i have a look at the wiring, thinkin maybe a power cable was like barely hanging on or something. Where my ummm whats it called - not the flux capacitor, but my distrobution block that it!!! The screw might not be touching as many of the wires as possible, but the cable is fairly secure in there is virtually no tension on that cable - thus no reason to come loose. Further more wiggling it didn't seem to make a lick of difference. Couldn't tighten them up do to needing an alan key of some sort. Same thing go's for 8guage cables coming out the other side, from what i could tell. It all looked pretty good, worked well for a lil over 6mo.

Checked the amps finally, power light wasn't even staying on solid....it was struggling to stay solid green on my mids/highs amp. Sub amp had no power at all. Since the power cables appeared ok, i checked the grounds, both connected to both amps (both amps velcro'd down so they don't move much anymore). Checked the screw they connect to:used ring terminals around that screw so they're not going anywhere, looks fine to me.

So unless i'm wrong, that narrows it down to power cable from distro block to battery and remote turn-on wires. Checked the remote turn on wires they both looked to still be connected securely to the amps (i know there's a lil tension there as i ran outta wire - not to mention i believe i had to put two wires together 7/8ths the way along the wire (which i haven't checked yet).

Looked at the power cable thru out the engnie apartment looks fine to me, routed well so it doesn't even touch anything. Apart from the connector being nice and coroded at the battery, i don't think the corrosion is something that would decrease power by like 90% over a second or two.

Sooooooooooo....i think i've narrowed it down to possibly the remote turn on which if it was a poor connection could cause lack of power to one amp and virtually none to the other amp. Or possibly the power cable at the distro block. I suppose it could be the remote turn on connection at the back of the deck to, but i'm hoping not, cause it generally takes me about 1/2h to get the deck locked back into place thus making me truly unexcited about pullin the deck.

Is there any other possibilities to cause my probs that you guys can come up with. I know some of you will likely say get the multimeter out and check the power along the cable, but unfortunately i don't have one of those so i do things the hard way (though i should probably buy one-not that i'd use it more than like once a year if that)

Any questions i'll try to answer them, otherwise sorry for dragging this post out so long, and thanks in advance.

 

if you think it's the remote lead, just remove it off your amp, and jump power from your batt+ lead to help eliminate that off your list. Get a multimeter and test voltage at the amp when the prob occurs to see if it is indeed voltage or not.

 

hmmm ok it's really cold outside....and what you guys said to check first i think is the problem. I'm working in the snow on the side of the road (as discussed in other threads) and am almost positive its remote turn on behind the deck.

Neither amp turns on at the moment, although what dukk said about the fuse also kinda makes me wonder, but if a fuse go's no voltage should go past correct?

When ya say that (because i'm stereo retarded) i assume ya mean, wire from + batter teminal to either remote turn on wire or directly to amp to see if it powers up then. That'd involve having more wire...not something i have. A multimeter isn't something i have either, but since it's snowing i gotta go down to ukranian wheel to pick up a snowbrushh, figure i may buy a cheap *** multimeter! then i can double check things. If i was to put the multimeter on the remote turn on wire at the amp's end - what reading should i get?

[ October 16, 2004, 11:21 AM: Message edited by: Hardcore Rock Superstar ]

 

if you have a agu fuse i would suspect it if your having a power problem
i personally think there junk and only cause problems

 

^^Agu fuses can keep you guessing unless you know that they can break without looking broken. Again, the multimeter is your friend here. Or even a test light I guess, but over time you'll be glad that you got the multi.
All your amp(s) need to turn on and stay on is +12v, +12v remote, and solid grounds. Get the multi and find out which one you are missing.

 

hmmmm tested with one of those screwdriver power testing lights...6-12v

i figure if i put the ground on the amp's ground, that has to be working for me to get a power light - i get a power light on both power and remote turn on. Same thing on other amp, yet neither amp's power light comes on with the vehicle on. Deck works fine though. Checked at the distro block, everything was getting i guess at least 6v, tested at the non-battery side of my inline fuse, light burned bright.

I'm not positive what kinda fuse i'm using, not that stereo smart, looked kinda like a dog bone. Just a thing flat metal piece shaped like a dog bone. suppose it looks most like an agu fuse (lookin at pics on the internet). It looks fine, still shinny silver, doesn't look burnt or anything.

 

yeah that's AGU. Thing about a test light is it's kinda inconclusive, it doesn't tell you if you are getting below 10v, it just lights up or not.
Are you going to get a multi, it would be much easier to help you out if you had one of those...

 

yeah, thats pretty much what i was thinkin....might be getting 6v and it'll come on :S.

Maybe tommorrow i'll have time to whip down to get a multimeter - anything i should look for? or can i just buy the cheapest one?

As well, if i swap out the fuse - since AGU is no good...whats recommended assuming i'm running about ummm about 1100rms or so give or take a few?

[ October 16, 2004, 03:06 PM: Message edited by: Hardcore Rock Superstar ]

 

It's not that AGU is no good, it is just that sometimes the fuse can break and still look good. Easy enough to test...with a multimeter, broken record eh? I just got their(ukranian's) cheapest one with a rubber boot on it. It was $10 on sale reg $30. It's nice to have good tools, but the cheap one should do it for ya.
As well, if you chose a fuse, the amperage rating is based upon your wire guage and length. Usually between 50-80 amps for a longish run of 4awg.