Schumi

Hello, well after a little research and all, I finally decided on an upgrade and had it installed yesterday. This is what I went with:

Wiring: Rockford 8 Guage - http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/ezcom...e.asp?key=1564

Cap: Lightning Audio B10-03 - http://www.lightningaudio.com/2004/p...asp?prodID=151

Amp: JBL 72.2 - http://www.jbl.com/car/products/prod...er=GTS&cat=AMP

Enclosure: Q-Logic Ported hatchback Enclosure - http://www.qlogic.ws/2003/products/q...productID=7193

Sub: Rockford Fosgate 12" Series 2 - http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...h%20Subwoofers

Any opinions? It just fills out the whole system. I already had an upgraded 200 Watt factory Monsoon system, 8 speakers, MP3 player and all but just wanted to add some bass, and this has really added it.

I just have a few questions though. My amp has been wired up for bridged mono operation, so does that mean the mono/stereo setting should be set on mono. When I brought it home, it was on stereo, but I changed it. I also have the X-Over mode switch set to "LP." There are also other settings on the amp like "bass boost," "X-Over," and "Input Level" (all turn switches with a screwdriver). I guess these need to be tweaked since while listening on my first drive, it seems as the amp is not really cutting out, but it will pump out a ton of bass, then not at much, then back up again and so on (fluctuates a lot). I played with the settings a little and it seems to be pretty stable now. But I want to know what order should I set these settings and all to get the maximum performance. If you could help me out, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

Schumi

Also, which way should the sub be facing? I've tried it towards the cab, and towards the rear of the car. Each seem to sound the same, well to me anyhow. Most of the low end bass seems to be coming out of the port on the box, which is facing upwards.

Thanks.

loudsubz

5-8 inches from the tail lights of the car, with the sub facing the rear of the car

sit in the car, and open the trunk, if it gets louder you have alot of cancelation, if theres not much of a change your fine

Rockney

Looks to be a nice setup.. From the manual and having it set at Mono should be fine..

You will want to set the amp to LPF and tweak it to your liking, My preference is no vocals coming from the sub box, so the LPF is usually set at 80Hz.

How did you tie it into the system?? as in a line out converter?? or high level input on the amplifier..

Schumi

Hi Rockney, it is set up through the built in High Level Input on the amplifier. It is wired in with the rear speakers, and at this place (but don't quote me) as it comes out from the Monsoon amp. The installer did all the work, and they are very reliable where I had it done. I like the fact that I have not lost any balance/fade or bass/mid/trebble settings on my stereo. Now if I don't want so much pounding bass if say my parents are driving my car or they are in as a passenger, I can turn the bass down on the HU and not have to go to the amp and do it which is what I was thinking I might have to do. This system fit in very nicely and better than what I was expecting...which is a good thing!

Schumi

Oh and if I may... What is the difference between the LOC converter I originally heard of, and the High Level Input? I presume using the HLI on the amp is the way to go as it was built in specifically for this usage.

Again, if you can, what is the 10 cent explanation between the two? How come some amps have them and some don't forcing you to use a LOC converter?

Thanks!

Rockney

Im not sure the exact difference.. I have used both, my guess you would only use a LOC if the amp is not equipped. I know some LOC's have built in line drivers as well, to increase or stabilize the voltage of the pre-out cables connected to the amp.

Schumi

Thanks for the input Rockney. All learned information will come in very handy!

Schumi

Hey all,

Well I think I have it set up perfectly, or almost perfect from my standards. These settings are not exact at the dials only give the lowest and highest setting so these are just estimates. I have the input type set to mono (Bridged wiring). I have the X-Over set at LP (Low Pass) and the setting on the X-Over is roughly 70-80Hz. The input level is around 1.5-2V or so, roughly 1/3 the way around (lowest setting is 4V and highest is 250mV). The bass boost is pretty much at its lowest setting, I hardly moved it up.

Sounds really clear and loud now. I keep the Bass setting on my HU around 0 most of the time. If I have on classic rock or something that doesn't have a lot of bass to start with, I'll move it up to 2 or 3 (highest is 6).

BTW, how hot should the amp get? I presume if I have to pounding for a long period of time having it heat up is pretty normal. For now just to be safe, I fold down half of my rear seat so that the amp is in the cabin which can cool with the air con on (it installed on the rear seat). I guess this won't be as much of a problem in the winter when it's really cold out and the trunk is always cold.

Do you think these settings are about right, and what about the heat?

Thanks you everyone for all you help!

Rockney

Well judging from the Manual on page 7 shows if the amp goes into protection mode, meaning the light is on solid the amp has overheated. I guess it more depends on the amp / and the load (ohm) which is put on the amp.. Having the seat down will help in cooling,, and should allow more of the bass to travel into the cabin of the car.

I had a MTX thuunder 280 (old school) which got really warm when running it 4ohm stereo driving a pair of JL W0's.. now my PA 1600 fire n ice run's nice a cool @ 3ohm stereo with my W3's.

Maybe ask the stereo shop where it was purchased if they have a guideline to how warm it operates at.. and hope that the protection circuit works if it does get to a critical temperature..