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Sub enclosure dimensions

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Old 03-25-2010, 10:58 PM
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max dimenstions would be 2ft 8'' wide 2ft deep and 1ft 4'' height.
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Old 03-25-2010, 11:36 PM
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alright, so you have the volume, approx 7 cubic feet, but the dimensions make it tricky. Obviously you can't do 4 across the front or rear in a standard rectangular style box, so you can either do 2 in the front, 2 in the back, 2 on top, or one on either side in a box that is approx 4 cubic feet net internally. Here's an example: a box that is 28" wide x 16" high x 22" deep will yield approx 4.1 cubic feet net internal using 3/4" mdf after woofer and dividers/braces displacement (assumed .050 cubic ft per sub, and 3/4" dividers to split box into 4 equal volumes. This would allow you to place 2 in the front, and 1 on either side which will fire into the sides of the trunk with about an inch to spare for cone travel ( I preferred this set up as the 2 in the rear may create cancellation problems...truth is that this set up is not optimal, but will work as I've done it in the past with good results...the best is to have all drivers on the same side facing the same direction, but this works very well and the difference is hard to notice given the output potential of 4 subs. the box will be very strong with the double cross bracing and with full power will get plenty loud.

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Old 03-26-2010, 02:35 AM
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Stagger them across the front, 1 high 1 low 1 high 1 low.
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Old 03-26-2010, 09:12 AM
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^^won't fit...that's 42" in a 32 inch space with not enough height to do that...I've already looked at that, and did a scale drawing to confirm.
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Old 03-26-2010, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Denonite
^^won't fit...that's 42" in a 32 inch space with not enough height to do that...I've already looked at that, and did a scale drawing to confirm.


Would you happen to have a scale drawing of what you recommended in your last post?
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Old 03-26-2010, 05:42 PM
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Not on computer. Easy to do, just grab a piece of paper, a ruler and draw a rectangle using 1 cm to represent 1 inch...so 16"= 16 cm in your scale drawing, 28"= 28 cm, etc... Then get a compass or a circular object about 10 cm in diameter (your sub's diameter) and try to make 4 of them fit in the rectangle.
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Old 03-26-2010, 07:01 PM
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Question

Originally Posted by Denonite
Not on computer. Easy to do, just grab a piece of paper, a ruler and draw a rectangle using 1 cm to represent 1 inch...so 16"= 16 cm in your scale drawing, 28"= 28 cm, etc... Then get a compass or a circular object about 10 cm in diameter (your sub's diameter) and try to make 4 of them fit in the rectangle.
Have you ever had the chance to try firing 2 back and 2 up in this type of scenario? Just wondering if the cancellation possibilities would be minimized doing it that way.....

I would think in a trunk it would direct more pressure up through the back deck......

Last edited by BigRedGuy; 03-26-2010 at 07:03 PM. Reason: typo-itis....again....:)
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Old 03-27-2010, 09:40 AM
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Thanks guys for all your help..much appreciated!
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Old 03-27-2010, 02:25 PM
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here is a diagram of the box:
net internal is 4.07 cubic feet using .75 mdf, as Big Red mentioned, the rear subs could be mounted on top, but you would have to re-configure the dimensions to allow for a shorter box height, and increase width and/or depth to maintain the 1cube/driver set up...again based on general info.
Attached Thumbnails Sub enclosure dimensions-freestyle.jpg  

Last edited by Denonite; 03-27-2010 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 03-27-2010, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by BigRedGuy
Have you ever had the chance to try firing 2 back and 2 up in this type of scenario? Just wondering if the cancellation possibilities would be minimized doing it that way.....

I would think in a trunk it would direct more pressure up through the back deck......
Red, I've used that style (2 front, 2 up)in hatch backs with great results, but found in trunks that the high energy of the subs right below the rear deck caused a lot of rattling. It still produced a lot of bass, so depending on the vehicle and the sound deadening used, no reason why it wouldn't work well.
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