Sub wiring query
Sub wiring query
Hi guys
I have 2 Alpine VR12 in a bandpass box, which I have 2 separate speaker leads
Im hooking up a Rockford Fosgate 325.1 amp to it.
How would you suggest wiring that to the amp. I get a bit lost in the ohm thing.
I've been told to join the 2 positives and the 2 negatives together and hook up to amp as bridged. In other words positives to pos on one side and the neg to the other side as the 325.1 has basically A and B speaker connections.
Would that be 2 ohms or 1 ohm when all said and done. I know the amp goes to 2 ohm stable.
Appreciate any ideas and the help
Thx in advance
I have 2 Alpine VR12 in a bandpass box, which I have 2 separate speaker leads
Im hooking up a Rockford Fosgate 325.1 amp to it.
How would you suggest wiring that to the amp. I get a bit lost in the ohm thing.
I've been told to join the 2 positives and the 2 negatives together and hook up to amp as bridged. In other words positives to pos on one side and the neg to the other side as the 325.1 has basically A and B speaker connections.
Would that be 2 ohms or 1 ohm when all said and done. I know the amp goes to 2 ohm stable.
Appreciate any ideas and the help
Thx in advance
the A & B terminal are basicaly the same (like wired in parallel)
and you're right that amp is only 2ohms stable.
What you should do is that an DMM (Digital Multi Meter) and measure the resistance of each sub and post it. IF your subs are 2 ohms then you will need to wired them in serie(2+2=4ohms final load) and if they are 4 ohms then just use one terminal and they will be wired in parallel (4/2=2 final load).
and you're right that amp is only 2ohms stable.
What you should do is that an DMM (Digital Multi Meter) and measure the resistance of each sub and post it. IF your subs are 2 ohms then you will need to wired them in serie(2+2=4ohms final load) and if they are 4 ohms then just use one terminal and they will be wired in parallel (4/2=2 final load).
the A & B terminal are basicaly the same (like wired in parallel)
and you're right that amp is only 2ohms stable.
What you should do is that an DMM (Digital Multi Meter) and measure the resistance of each sub and post it. IF your subs are 2 ohms then you will need to wired them in serie(2+2=4ohms final load) and if they are 4 ohms then just use one terminal and they will be wired in parallel (4/2=2 final load).
and you're right that amp is only 2ohms stable.
What you should do is that an DMM (Digital Multi Meter) and measure the resistance of each sub and post it. IF your subs are 2 ohms then you will need to wired them in serie(2+2=4ohms final load) and if they are 4 ohms then just use one terminal and they will be wired in parallel (4/2=2 final load).
and i will be running the amp at 2 ohms?
It look like a standard class AB mono amp. Just don't expect to much from it since you will probably reach its limit quickly (clipping = torture for subs). Just make sure the gain is setup properly and you do not overuse the bass boost and you will be fine.
What car?
What car?
My setup
Eclipse CD3200
Alpine MRP-550
panasonic 6 1/2
No name 6 x 9
2 Alpine VR12 in bandpass
Looking for amp to drive box. I had a R/F 200M and it drove 1 sub pretty good
My 6x9 and 6 1/2 are my weak spot
Apparantely somehow that R/F 325.1 can go up to 900 watts.
Also looking to add a power cap for first time.
This guy i know wants to sell it for $200.00. Just doing some investigating before i go out and get it
By the way thank you very much for sticking in there helping me out
Eclipse CD3200
Alpine MRP-550
panasonic 6 1/2
No name 6 x 9
2 Alpine VR12 in bandpass
Looking for amp to drive box. I had a R/F 200M and it drove 1 sub pretty good
My 6x9 and 6 1/2 are my weak spot
Apparantely somehow that R/F 325.1 can go up to 900 watts.
Also looking to add a power cap for first time.
This guy i know wants to sell it for $200.00. Just doing some investigating before i go out and get it
By the way thank you very much for sticking in there helping me out
Here's a way to verify if the amp can do 900W.
14.4v(car "max" voltage) x 40A (fuse on the amp) = 576W
and since it's a ClassAB amp it's probably 65% efficient so
576w x 0.65 = 374.4W @ 14.4v MAX
For 200$ you can find better deal, I just sold for 40$ a ClassD Sony amp that can do 400w...
What i can suggest if to find an amp that can do 1000w @ 1 ohm like a sundown 1000D, this way you will run it at 2 ohms (600w) and if you ever decide to change your subs you will have some headroom.
You're right about your weak spot, i personnaly prefer not to have rear fill so i would ditch the 6x9(or use the deck to power them), get some nice component in the front (Clarion SSS601 seems to be a good choice) and bridge the amp to power those.
This could be an idea, get this amp to run the front (bridged to new component
) and use your f550 bridged to power the sub. You have 2x200 for front and 2x250 for the subs and matching amp
14.4v(car "max" voltage) x 40A (fuse on the amp) = 576W
and since it's a ClassAB amp it's probably 65% efficient so
576w x 0.65 = 374.4W @ 14.4v MAX
For 200$ you can find better deal, I just sold for 40$ a ClassD Sony amp that can do 400w...
What i can suggest if to find an amp that can do 1000w @ 1 ohm like a sundown 1000D, this way you will run it at 2 ohms (600w) and if you ever decide to change your subs you will have some headroom.
You're right about your weak spot, i personnaly prefer not to have rear fill so i would ditch the 6x9(or use the deck to power them), get some nice component in the front (Clarion SSS601 seems to be a good choice) and bridge the amp to power those.
This could be an idea, get this amp to run the front (bridged to new component
) and use your f550 bridged to power the sub. You have 2x200 for front and 2x250 for the subs and matching amp


