yea, sorry to have to say it.. but it sounds like the L7 took your amp with it..

fuses usually only blow like that if there is a short in the psu.. so there are probably blown transistors all over the place..

You should be able to get it repaired for under $150 or maybe you will luck out and the shop you bought it from will replace it under warranty.

did they replace the sub or did you buy it somewhere else ?

 

I bought the sub else where and it was my second time in a year to have the L7 replaced - first time I blew it, second time I cooked it.
I decided to get a better sub because I had a feeling I'd blow or cook the L7 again so I went out and bought a decent amp.
I'm going to the shop where I bought the amp in about half an hour, now im just scared lol

 

Just a tip, but you might not want to mention that you had just blown your sub when you stopped using the amp.

If the amp was playing hard and the outputs were shorted, it should have just gone into protection.... unfortunatly, this dosen't always happen that way... As such, it could be considered abuse.

If they ask specifically its your perogative if you want to be honest, but I wouldnt go out of my way to explain what happened...

 

Yeah I received a hard time when I had to take my L7 back twice but I'm not all about fully explaining things

Well, bought 4 new fuses from the shop I bought it from, then went over to a friends where the guy who helped me do the install was also there. We went out and checked out the situation again and found the cause as to why the fuses were blowing...very bad and noobish but luckily I wasn't the one who did the wiring for the sub - the ground was plugged into the 12V and the 12V was plugged into the spot for the ground...yeah very very stupid and my friend feels very stupid but after swapping the cables around and replaced the fuses they didnt blow [img]smile.gif[/img] but still no power to my cap or amp :| We checked the fuse by the battery and it's still good so we're going to try another amp and double check everything tonight.

 

Hook up a cap backwards, and it'll make a really BIG BANG!!!
The fuse under the hood should be LARGER than the fuses on the amp, or it will present a bit of resistance.
If your amp is using 2 40 amp fuses, then I'd recommend at least a 100 amp ANL fuse under the hood.
Could be a bit more, cause you need to supply the load of the cap, as well as the amp, so maybe go to a 150.

Make sure the amp is off (ie no power at the remote lead), when you are charging the cap at the battery or the amp will turn on, and drain the cap before you get to re-connect the battery. A better method is to keep the battery connected, and charge the cap by replacing the fuse with the test light (or a 30 ohm resistor.
That way the car won't be draining the cap either.