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Upcoming 2012 Sonata Build

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Old 09-04-2012, 10:54 AM
  #11  
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Just an FYI, you can connect your amp directly to your door speakers for the input for the amp and you won't have to run a remote because it also does signal turn on. So if you want bass while waiting on the head unit this is a solution.

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Old 09-04-2012, 11:25 AM
  #12  
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Yes, I suppose I could have gone that route. But I haven't built the box for the sub yet, anyway. And I didn't have any other wiring to power the amplifier.
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:52 PM
  #13  
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Update: 9.19.2012

Hey all,
I'm happy to report that my stereo is operational. I'll try to breakdown the sequence of events, and what my general impressions are.

So, I had gone to FM Audio Video, here in Brantford, when I was first looking to get the deck, install kit, and steering wheel control adapter. The gentlemen who helped me was unable to find my car (base Sonata GL and it's stereo configuration - there are 3 systems available), so he said to leave it with him, and he'd give me a call back the next day. He didn't. Since I was in no rush at that point, I wasn't overly concerned.
3 weeks had passed, I went back into the store, spoke with the same salesman, and asked for the same deck, install kit, and adapter. Again, he was unable to find my car's stereo configuration - and didn't want to order the wrong wiring-harness if there was an external amplifier to by-pass. I assured him that my car was a simple 6 speaker system, with no amp. But he suggested that I bring the car back in the following morning, to have one of the installers have a look in the car to see if there was, in fact, an amp. I thought, if I was wrong, I'd look like a tool, so I agreed to bring the car back. Of course, there wasn't an amp. This installer was also able to find the right stereo info for my car... (using the same computer software the salesman had). So the proper equipment was ordered that day (Saturday, Sept 1st). I was called on the following Tuesday that my gear was ready, so I booked an install appointment for the next Saturday (the 8th). I called Friday night, to confirm the appointment, and was then notified that the deck hadn't been ordered. And that I'd have to reschedule the install... So I rescheduled for the 15th. Again, I hadn't heard from the store all week, so I went in, on Friday afternoon. Guess what, the deck was on back-order!
A phone call was made, and it turned out that the deck was being picked up from a different distributor - so I didn't snap, like I was on the brink of doing.
To make up for their lack of concern, and not letting me know, they said they only charge me for a half hour install - as I had asked them to install the amp kit I was supplying.
I took the car in on the 15th, at 10AM. Had the car "ready" at 12:30PM. But they hadn't installed the amp kit. When I noticed the wires still sitting on the back seat, I pointed it out to the salesman. He asked if I had more time that day, to have them do the wiring. I did. Unfortunately, the install bay was now booked... My wife ended up taking the car there yesterday morning (the 18th), so they could install the wiring. *So I drove around for 3 days, using the deck, but without the sub/amp.* All was well until I realized that they hadn't indicated which output the RCA's had been plugged into.
IF YOU HAVEN'T GUESSED BY NOW THIS STORE IS ALMOST ENTIRELY USELESS.

I installed the amp myself, yesterday, after work. In order to determine which RCAs were coming from the SUB pre-outs, I had to FADE the stereo all the way to the rear - this cut out two of the RCA's, which were then FRONT, by default. So I plugged the other set in, and away I went. It wasn't until today, that I thought I should try fading all the way to the front, to see if the sub still had a signal. It did, so I know the REAR pre-outs weren't used. Phew... Then came tuning...

The HPF is set to 120Hz on the deck. Which is higher than I'd like to have it, as the stock speakers were able to handle a decent amount of bass with the filter OFF. The reason I have it set so high is because in order to get a decent amount of bass from the subwoofer, I have to increase the BASS setting on the deck. If the HPF is set below that 120Hz, then the increased BASS setting means the speakers distort.
The LPF for the SUB out is set for 120Hz as well. The amp is set at the same, with the Bass Boost off, and the gain a little less than half.
The head-unit's Bass Extend is OFF, it's LOUD setting is OFF, and the subwoofer PHASE is set to NORMAL.
Now, when I set the PHASE to REVERSE I immediately get an increase in bass response. Is this an indication of anything? I was wondering if I have the RCA's reversed - but I matched Red wire, to the red amp jack, and white wire to the White amp jack... I hope the installer didn't swap them on the sub pre-out.

Well, if you read this far. Good for you, well done.

I'll put a video up at some point.
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:34 PM
  #14  
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If it sounds better with the phase reversed then leave it that way. There is nothing wrong with the install, just a phenomenon of the way the sub, front speakers, car, and crossover are interacting.

Part of tuning a stereo system is to play with the polarity of all the drivers to arrive at the best arrangement for that particular install.
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Old 09-22-2012, 08:17 AM
  #15  
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Thanks Dukk. I ran inside when I got home to Google the Polarity issue. I hadn't ever switched this feature before. I wasn't sure if there were any adverse affects on the woofer/amp - cause I didn't understand what was actually happening. lol
With the phase set to Normal, the sub was pushing out when the doors speakers were pulling in, and vice-versa. So they're working against each other, and cancelling out a chunk of the frequency range.
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Old 09-22-2012, 10:25 AM
  #16  
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Sometimes you need drivers to be set with opposite polarity to have the best sound though. For instance, very often with a component set in the front, if the passenger tweeter or midrange is reversed it can help lock in a center image.

There is no right or wrong combination. Start with everything wired in polarity and then change one driver, listen, decided if it is better or worse, and then move onto the next driver. The results can be dramatic.

There used to be a high level comp car on the circuit that had switches in the front so the driver could change polarity of any of the drivers at any time to suit their whim. Personally, I can't see them wanting to change it often but it shows that it is an important exercise to go through. Many processors allow you to change polarity on the fly through their menus for tuning.
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:00 PM
  #17  
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Interesting. I continue to learn.
Right now the 6 speakers are still the stock Hyundai OEM drivers. I must say, they're pretty good. Instead of replacing the front set I might just sound-deaden the doors, and see what kind of result that gets me. Once in a while, if the frequency is right, I hear a slight reverberation coming off the doors - mostly from the back two.
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