MRS.AUDIO

No nasty email Tim. You have stated why you don't like spray type products, and your point is very valid. We also had an imposible time finding one that did squat. That is why Jon started the X-terminator project.

Actually since you have used so many different liquid based product I think it would be really cool if you would be willing to try out a sample of ours. PM me if you are interested.

*edit* Oops, guess I should have done this by PM. If any mod doesn't like that last paragraph please feel free to remove it.

[ March 13, 2004, 11:36 PM: Message edited by: MRS.AUDIO ]

JohnVroom

VW used to use wax in its panels to block moisture and damp sound, it was very effective at both (but a real mess if you had to go in there).
I have had minimal success with the spray on stuff in aerosol cans (3M rubberized). Its affects were not significant but neither was its price (I got what I paid for).

Chadxton

iTrader: (1)

All I needed was information whether I could use this product. In effect, I was trying to get a sound barrier solution, and it looks like I'll have to look at something else if Xterminator is solely a vibration dampener and not a sound barrier.

To those who may think I'm here to support a product, I am not. This is one of the reasons I seldom ask for product experience. I usually do my own research, and I know asking for info on specific product opens up a can of worms.

I'll just use my own resources for getting what I want. Maybe I'll just pick up some V/L comp.

TomK

Hmmmmmmm........... liquid rubber mixture poured onto the floors. That’s a liquid material that does work well if applied properly. The propagation of sound (noise) is an annoying subject. Two things that I know of that need to be addressed in making your car quiet are this.......... panel resonant frequency and air leakage.

Panel resonant frequency; we try to address that by adding mass to panels/parts to change the resonant hz so the damn thing stops vibrating. We can also separate the vibrating panel from the cabin by using foam/carpet/underlay, etc. Therefore the vibration from the resonating panel hopefully gets dissipated into foam or other material and not transferred into the cabin. Anything that is vibrating is basically functioning like a speaker or a source for sound. When all you want creating a sound is the cone movement from your speakers, having anything else moving causes new sound sources and less then perfect sound reproduction. That's bad.

Air leakage. Sound is basically created through the movement of air. So anything leaking into your cabin from the outside, the trunk, under the hood, etc can increase the noise floor and ruin your attempts for perfect sound (if there is such a thing). There are a lot of materials that can be used to seal up the cabin area from air leakage. Sound deadening mat just happens to play a duel roll in this area as well as liquid deadeners that can get into places that mats can not get to very easily. The other annoying place for air leakage is when someone is talking and air is leaking out of their pie hole while you're sitting trying to enjoy the music. Duct tape resolves that very handily

Once you have all this sorted out, then you can move into the area of constructive and destructive modes in the cabin caused by the sound sources. Hey, no one said perfect sound was an easy thing to achieve !!

PEI330Ci

I would like to point out a couple of things.

First, applying most any form of sound deadening mat will lower the resonant frequency of a panel, but it doesn't nessessarily get rid of that energy. In a lot of cases, that energy gets transfered somewhere else.

I'll put it this way:

Let's say you had a panel behind driver that was vibrating. Then you dampened it, the energy from the driver would be absorbed somewhere else that had less moving resistance than the dampened panel.

So dampening the heck out of your trunk for example is going to push that energy into your passenger compartment. But...then your passenger compartment will start to rattle. Sound familiar anyone?

Here is my predicament.

I've dampened the heck out of my doors. I've got a single 6.5" midbass driver mounted to the door frames being fed over 200 watts each. I have thoroughly sealed the door up with sound deadening so it forms a kind of enclosure for the mids. I now have air leakage at high volumes at the top of the door where the window exits the frame, and the door latch area. At high volumes it manifests itself as a light chuffing. While my door frame is pretty solid, (it doesn't make noise at high volume) my door skins have taken to making lots of noise.

Picture this, a well dampened door that huffs and chuffs and blows my doorskins off. ---rattle rattle rattle----

So I'm looking at venting my doors somehow to releive the pressure, and mounting my door skins beter.

...2 steps forward...1 step back...

Adam

TomK

Don't entirely agree with that. Your passenger compartment is likely rattling even if your trunk wasn't deadened

Solution to this is to cut a big fakin' hole in the outside of your door to vent the driver into the great unknown expanse I'm sure it won't affect warranttee on that bimmer one bit!! Actually sort of surprised that those drivers are creating that much pressure to do that. Most of the time the pressure in the door is relieved easily enough by the door drains and a few other holes in the door that are on the outside part of the door seal.