Advanced SPL for Street Competitors
playing a higher frequency is more efficient to amplifiers, thus can get more power
also, most audio equipment wont last long when being dropped under 10v
There is absolutely no interference of the car on the power being measured.
It is a function of the impedance of the speaker (which depends on the box, and frequency, and bla bla) and of course, the power you give to the amp.
Playing a higher frequency is better for the SPL, you require less excursion for the same SPL, but for a correctly designed amplifier it wont change.
Example: our power measurements are made between 50 and 60Hz, and are the same at 100Hz and 1kHz.
Just in time: If you use a power resistor on your car at the same resistance value of the impedance your box play, the power will be the same of very close.
Those power measurements made the battery drop to around 9V.
It is a function of the impedance of the speaker (which depends on the box, and frequency, and bla bla) and of course, the power you give to the amp.
Playing a higher frequency is better for the SPL, you require less excursion for the same SPL, but for a correctly designed amplifier it wont change.
Example: our power measurements are made between 50 and 60Hz, and are the same at 100Hz and 1kHz.
Just in time: If you use a power resistor on your car at the same resistance value of the impedance your box play, the power will be the same of very close.
Those power measurements made the battery drop to around 9V.
I understand you can make more power dropping a battery down to 9 volts but there are risk factors involve with that. Like I said before, most amplifiers cant handle low voltage drops and aren't stable. They can make lots of power but its very dirty power and can jeopardize the woofer(s)
I have also seen amplifiers make inefficient power. You would think that amps make the same power at the same impedance but they dont, they vary from box, tuning, and frequency
I tested an amp that dropped to 10.3v on the battery and made 5100watts @ 1.1 ohms and that same amp with a different box and tuning do 4800watts @ 1.07 ohms and dropped to 9.9 volts on the battery
I have also seen amplifiers make inefficient power. You would think that amps make the same power at the same impedance but they dont, they vary from box, tuning, and frequency
I tested an amp that dropped to 10.3v on the battery and made 5100watts @ 1.1 ohms and that same amp with a different box and tuning do 4800watts @ 1.07 ohms and dropped to 9.9 volts on the battery
Another thing, impedance and power are indirectly related.
As power increases, impedance decreases
at low volume impedance is at its highest and decreaces as you turn it up, this is why "rolling" the volume works if impedance is too low to burp.
As power increases, impedance decreases
at low volume impedance is at its highest and decreaces as you turn it up, this is why "rolling" the volume works if impedance is too low to burp.
I understand you can make more power dropping a battery down to 9 volts but there are risk factors involve with that. Like I said before, most amplifiers cant handle low voltage drops and aren't stable. They can make lots of power but its very dirty power and can jeopardize the woofer(s)
I have also seen amplifiers make inefficient power. You would think that amps make the same power at the same impedance but they dont, they vary from box, tuning, and frequency
I tested an amp that dropped to 10.3v on the battery and made 5100watts @ 1.1 ohms and that same amp with a different box and tuning do 4800watts @ 1.07 ohms and dropped to 9.9 volts on the battery
I have also seen amplifiers make inefficient power. You would think that amps make the same power at the same impedance but they dont, they vary from box, tuning, and frequency
I tested an amp that dropped to 10.3v on the battery and made 5100watts @ 1.1 ohms and that same amp with a different box and tuning do 4800watts @ 1.07 ohms and dropped to 9.9 volts on the battery
The impedance can change due to the acoustic load variation on a high-pressure burping.
Well, a correctly designed amp should respond to reactive loads without much variation.
Actually depends, for example, the Re of the coil increase with its temperature, and a 1 to 2 second burst is enough to make it increase 50% or even more at high power.
The impedance can change due to the acoustic load variation on a high-pressure burping.
Actually depends, for example, the Re of the coil increase with its temperature, and a 1 to 2 second burst is enough to make it increase 50% or even more at high power.
The impedance can change due to the acoustic load variation on a high-pressure burping.
And mostly all amps will respond the same way when the reactive load is just the reactive load itself. When put in a inconstant environment like a car with too many variables to consider, every amp will act differently. This is the point I am trying to make.
This conclusion is from a lot of years of testing and not any theory.
This thread is for anyone who is stuck at a certain level and want to make the next step or pass a certain barrier. It should bring more knowledge on how the stereo system and the car works as a whole.




Some great info here.