The Great Ground Debate
how about everyone try this in their own vehicle... run wire to chasis and test what voltage drop and spl is, then run ground wire and do the same test... my guess is that with older cars, its better to run wire back to batt... as for me, i'll stick to my chasis ground cause it made no difference what so ever, plus i have less wire in the car
how about everyone try this in their own vehicle... run wire to chasis and test what voltage drop and spl is, then run ground wire and do the same test... my guess is that with older cars, its better to run wire back to batt... as for me, i'll stick to my chasis ground cause it made no difference what so ever, plus i have less wire in the car
Amplifiers will also be more reliable if the ground connection amperage capacity is the same as the power wire.
Direct run to the battery on both power and ground for that extra bit on big power. Depending on your vehicles age, the rust in most vehicles frames/unibody would cause the higher power amps to pull a bit more current than they would had you run a power&ground wire.
So IMO if its an amp under 1000wrms just make sure you have a good chassis ground. Over 1000wrms run power and ground directly to battery and it doesn't hurt to ground it at the rear either for other components that you may have and to stop any possible ground loops from happening with the deck that may be grounded at the factory ground.
So IMO if its an amp under 1000wrms just make sure you have a good chassis ground. Over 1000wrms run power and ground directly to battery and it doesn't hurt to ground it at the rear either for other components that you may have and to stop any possible ground loops from happening with the deck that may be grounded at the factory ground.
Obviously with a wide variety of manufacturers and types of assembly you should take that with a grain of salt... as you Kia my not qualify...




