I have a great Idea!! Look inside to find out more....
01-13-2005, 04:38 PM
#21
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2000
Posts: 890
Tip of the day! to make a really ridgid box and save on wood...Use steel! Down side is that most people don't have a welder, but if you do take advantage of it! We have made a strong box/cab this year, over 1,100 Ft of steel! pluss a sheet or 2 of 1/4" [img]smile.gif[/img] That's also including the rear end and batt box. But for people that have to pay for steel, it might be better to use wood 
Cement might be an idea for street competiors to do. Or a solid steel box might do well
just ideas for you guys [img]smile.gif[/img]
Cement might be an idea for street competiors to do. Or a solid steel box might do well
just ideas for you guys [img]smile.gif[/img]
01-13-2005, 05:29 PM
#22
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,093
Originally posted by Rip Rock:
Tip of the day! to make a really ridgid box and save on wood...Use steel! Down side is that most people don't have a welder, but if you do take advantage of it! We have made a strong box/cab this year, over 1,100 Ft of steel! pluss a sheet or 2 of 1/4" [img]smile.gif[/img] That's also including the rear end and batt box. But for people that have to pay for steel, it might be better to use wood
Cement might be an idea for street competiors to do. Or a solid steel box might do well just ideas for you guys [img]smile.gif[/img]
Tip of the day! to make a really ridgid box and save on wood...Use steel! Down side is that most people don't have a welder, but if you do take advantage of it! We have made a strong box/cab this year, over 1,100 Ft of steel! pluss a sheet or 2 of 1/4" [img]smile.gif[/img] That's also including the rear end and batt box. But for people that have to pay for steel, it might be better to use wood
Cement might be an idea for street competiors to do. Or a solid steel box might do well
just ideas for you guys [img]smile.gif[/img]
as for cement, we made one, but did not get as far as really trying it out kinda ran outta time.. it to weight about 150lbs. good idea's Riprock!
another few tips in street tuning and testing.
-After you have burped your vehicle, either let it charge on a chager or let the car run for about 4-5 minutes to get full charge back on your battery (also use voltmeter to make sure). otherwise you do get varied results.
-Only test 1 thing at a time. for example, move 1 seat forward, burp. charge, then try another seat, etc etc.. and please keep records of what you do.
-I know i started to keep record in about june of last year. i filled up about 30 pages of notes, and tests beoifre finals in OCT! very very useful.
Livin Loud
01-14-2005, 07:29 AM
#23
Originally posted by Livin - Loud:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Rip Rock:
Tip of the day! to make a really ridgid box and save on wood...Use steel! Down side is that most people don't have a welder, but if you do take advantage of it! We have made a strong box/cab this year, over 1,100 Ft of steel! pluss a sheet or 2 of 1/4" [img]smile.gif[/img] That's also including the rear end and batt box. But for people that have to pay for steel, it might be better to use wood
Cement might be an idea for street competiors to do. Or a solid steel box might do well just ideas for you guys [img]smile.gif[/img]
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Rip Rock:
Tip of the day! to make a really ridgid box and save on wood...Use steel! Down side is that most people don't have a welder, but if you do take advantage of it! We have made a strong box/cab this year, over 1,100 Ft of steel! pluss a sheet or 2 of 1/4" [img]smile.gif[/img] That's also including the rear end and batt box. But for people that have to pay for steel, it might be better to use wood
Cement might be an idea for street competiors to do. Or a solid steel box might do well
just ideas for you guys [img]smile.gif[/img]
as for cement, we made one, but did not get as far as really trying it out kinda ran outta time.. it to weight about 150lbs. good idea's Riprock!
another few tips in street tuning and testing.
-After you have burped your vehicle, either let it charge on a chager or let the car run for about 4-5 minutes to get full charge back on your battery (also use voltmeter to make sure). otherwise you do get varied results.
-Only test 1 thing at a time. for example, move 1 seat forward, burp. charge, then try another seat, etc etc.. and please keep records of what you do.
-I know i started to keep record in about june of last year. i filled up about 30 pages of notes, and tests beoifre finals in OCT! very very useful.
Livin Loud </font>[/QUOTE]very good point LL keep notes as you make changes... to remember what gained you and what didnt and what caused you to go down... it happens and the you cant remember what you just did that caused you to drop a db or 2 ... if using computer software make real good use of the programs impedance graphs this will greatly help you... in a vehicle it changes a bit because of the compression but keep in mind it will not totally change ... a high impedance rise can ruin you if you cant get power out of your amp... the peak SPL curve rarely works...mainly the xmax and impedance curves are usefull
01-14-2005, 07:31 AM
#24
Originally posted by Livin - Loud:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Rip Rock:
Tip of the day! to make a really ridgid box and save on wood...Use steel! Down side is that most people don't have a welder, but if you do take advantage of it! We have made a strong box/cab this year, over 1,100 Ft of steel! pluss a sheet or 2 of 1/4" [img]smile.gif[/img] That's also including the rear end and batt box. But for people that have to pay for steel, it might be better to use wood
Cement might be an idea for street competiors to do. Or a solid steel box might do well just ideas for you guys [img]smile.gif[/img]
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Rip Rock:
Tip of the day! to make a really ridgid box and save on wood...Use steel! Down side is that most people don't have a welder, but if you do take advantage of it! We have made a strong box/cab this year, over 1,100 Ft of steel! pluss a sheet or 2 of 1/4" [img]smile.gif[/img] That's also including the rear end and batt box. But for people that have to pay for steel, it might be better to use wood
Cement might be an idea for street competiors to do. Or a solid steel box might do well
just ideas for you guys [img]smile.gif[/img]
as for cement, we made one, but did not get as far as really trying it out kinda ran outta time.. it to weight about 150lbs. good idea's Riprock!
another few tips in street tuning and testing.
-After you have burped your vehicle, either let it charge on a chager or let the car run for about 4-5 minutes to get full charge back on your battery (also use voltmeter to make sure). otherwise you do get varied results.
-Only test 1 thing at a time. for example, move 1 seat forward, burp. charge, then try another seat, etc etc.. and please keep records of what you do.
-I know i started to keep record in about june of last year. i filled up about 30 pages of notes, and tests beoifre finals in OCT! very very useful.
Livin Loud </font>[/QUOTE]very good point LL keep notes as you make changes... to remember what gained you and what didnt and what caused you to go down... it happens and the you cant remember what you just did that caused you to drop a db or 2 ... if using computer software make real good use of the programs impedance graphs this will greatly help you... in a vehicle it changes a bit because of the compression but keep in mind it will not totally change ... a high impedance rise can ruin you if you cant get power out of your amp... the peak SPL curve rarely works...mainly the xmax and impedance curves are usefull... knowing how your subs work or move at certain frequencies in the boxes will help protect your investments and greatly reduce your chances of over-xmaxing them
01-14-2005, 07:36 AM
#25
aluminum tape will help make your experiments easier to do! and will make you louder [img]smile.gif[/img]
and PVC tubing or cardboard tubing (during testing) works way better and easier to use then fabing flares out of wood
and PVC tubing or cardboard tubing (during testing) works way better and easier to use then fabing flares out of wood
01-19-2005, 08:18 AM
#26
Now you see this is what i dont get about this board, and it is thereason that I did not post here in a long time. We have many very experienced people that are willing to offer help to people that are maybe new to the sport or just really need some help. If I were just coming into it I would jump all over this opportunity. But NO no one has even asked a question, do you have to much pride to need help??? This is exactly what I did not want to happen. Give it a few months and everyone will bitch that they need help ASAP for a show in two days, and they could have had all the help they needed right now!!! So I am saying right now if this thread just goes dead again I wont offer my help to anyone that I am not already in contact with. So the choice is yours.
01-19-2005, 10:20 AM
#28
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,093
i agree chris. but some of use, do work on our vehicles year round, and some don't.. understandable.. and hopefuly when spring rolls around more people will be enthusiastic, get on the boards, post there results, pics, and ask question how and where they can improve and for new idea's!
Livin Loud
Livin Loud
01-19-2005, 10:31 AM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by orion:
But NO no one has even asked a question, do you have to much pride to need help??? So I am saying right now if this thread just goes dead again I wont offer my help to anyone that I am not already in contact with. So the choice is yours.
But NO no one has even asked a question, do you have to much pride to need help??? So I am saying right now if this thread just goes dead again I wont offer my help to anyone that I am not already in contact with. So the choice is yours.
01-19-2005, 11:14 AM
#30
Originally posted by Aaronski Birdmanovich:
I like the idea....After all even the seasoned vets don't know it all...
I think it would also be interesting to hear peoples results from testing with different cars,subs,enclosure designs...I know I have a lot of box design ideas always running in my head and I'm always wondering which would work in such and such a car...
I've been in this going on 3 yrs now and I find I'm learning something new on a daily basis even in the offseason....
Great idea,Man.....Let the sharing begin!!
I like the idea....After all even the seasoned vets don't know it all...
I think it would also be interesting to hear peoples results from testing with different cars,subs,enclosure designs...I know I have a lot of box design ideas always running in my head and I'm always wondering which would work in such and such a car...
I've been in this going on 3 yrs now and I find I'm learning something new on a daily basis even in the offseason....
Great idea,Man.....Let the sharing begin!!
You others to share, but keep secrets to yourself. Hypocrit. [img]tongue.gif[/img]
Anywyas.. I haven't started building yet for next season, so I really don't have anything to add just yet. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
