Noob - building an SPL car
Hello everyone,
This is my first post here and I'm in the works of building an SPL vehicle slash daily driver - this post will be a little long but your help is appreciated - so thanks in advance!
My car is a 2008 Honda FIT black sport. Everything is stock so far and I've got a budget of +/- $5000. I have an older Kenwood 5V excelon deck I'm planning to use for SPL(podium style) and keep the factory radio and use a speaker line converter output for subs when not competing in SPL. I'm not concerned in changing the stock speakers or radio since the quality is fine for now*.
I've worked in Car Audio for many year and this will be my first attempt at SPL. I've been reading posts on this site and come up with a few questions that I can't find.
Now for the questions:
#1 - Subs - Mr. Yuli after seeing your score with the two tens - I was completely sold on your 12" product! I also am looking into the RE MT 12 as well but the price is pushing my budget! Any other suggestions?
#2 - Batteries & Power/ground wires - looks like I can get four '+' runs of 0/1 cable and four '-' runs of 0/1 cable to rear seat floor of the car without cutting the firewall grommet - more then factory has already provided. Will this be enough power for the 4 batteries(Kinetik 2400s possibly) put under he backseat floor and a Kinetik 1400 up front in the engine!
#3 - How do the classes work in terms of amps/subs and box placement? I'm a little confused on what class I would be placed in?
#4 - Amp wise I've ordered a pair Bassworks 3001.D strapped to give 6000watts. The reason for the amp is due to the price and solid build construction! The amps will be installed against the rear seats vertically.
I hope my questions are clear enough to understand
Thanks Jed
This is my first post here and I'm in the works of building an SPL vehicle slash daily driver - this post will be a little long but your help is appreciated - so thanks in advance!
My car is a 2008 Honda FIT black sport. Everything is stock so far and I've got a budget of +/- $5000. I have an older Kenwood 5V excelon deck I'm planning to use for SPL(podium style) and keep the factory radio and use a speaker line converter output for subs when not competing in SPL. I'm not concerned in changing the stock speakers or radio since the quality is fine for now*.
I've worked in Car Audio for many year and this will be my first attempt at SPL. I've been reading posts on this site and come up with a few questions that I can't find.
Now for the questions:
#1 - Subs - Mr. Yuli after seeing your score with the two tens - I was completely sold on your 12" product! I also am looking into the RE MT 12 as well but the price is pushing my budget! Any other suggestions?
#2 - Batteries & Power/ground wires - looks like I can get four '+' runs of 0/1 cable and four '-' runs of 0/1 cable to rear seat floor of the car without cutting the firewall grommet - more then factory has already provided. Will this be enough power for the 4 batteries(Kinetik 2400s possibly) put under he backseat floor and a Kinetik 1400 up front in the engine!
#3 - How do the classes work in terms of amps/subs and box placement? I'm a little confused on what class I would be placed in?
#4 - Amp wise I've ordered a pair Bassworks 3001.D strapped to give 6000watts. The reason for the amp is due to the price and solid build construction! The amps will be installed against the rear seats vertically.
I hope my questions are clear enough to understand
Thanks Jed
Before you begin, ask yourself what is the goal, what is it exactly that you are trying to accomplish?
Do you just want to hit a certain number, regardless of anything else? Or, do you want to win/be competative in a specific class?
Having answered those questions will help you decide which direction you should go.
Thread Starter
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 9
like john said 2 batteries will put you in street C, and the second battery cant be in the passenger compartment, it must be in the cargo area, if your looking at street A ( 1 12" sub) then you can only use 1 amp on your sub, and 1 battery under the hood. And yes FI Audio is owned and operated by the founders of RE
Looks like my approach with 2 amps is shot. Since I'm left with about $3500 to play with I may have the option of the Stetsom 7kD. According to their site it's 7k at 13.8v and decently priced too - just over $2k
Fi or RE where I'm leaning towards or possibly a DD too.
I've got a about 14 days to make up my mind before shop starts to slow down to start building this setup.
Thread Starter
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 9
Jed,
Before you begin, ask yourself what is the goal, what is it exactly that you are trying to accomplish?
Do you just want to hit a certain number, regardless of anything else? Or, do you want to win/be competative in a specific class?
Having answered those questions will help you decide which direction you should go.
Before you begin, ask yourself what is the goal, what is it exactly that you are trying to accomplish?
Do you just want to hit a certain number, regardless of anything else? Or, do you want to win/be competative in a specific class?
Having answered those questions will help you decide which direction you should go.
My goal right now is to have a good starting point for this season. Then continue to learn, test, and try to create an spl car for competition. Also enjoy the spl atmosphere and competitiveness at a certain threshold. I don't want to be to loudest guy right out of the box and say - hey: I beat you, you and you and be a complete *** clown before the season is over! I know a lot about the 12V world and can handle myself with much pride in my work. I've always wanted to compete in SPL comps but never had extra time to plan out a system and respectfully compete. Jed
Hey Yuli,
My goal right now is to have a good starting point for this season. Then continue to learn, test, and try to create an spl car for competition. Also enjoy the spl atmosphere and competitiveness at a certain threshold. I don't want to be to loudest guy right out of the box and say - hey: I beat you, you and you and be a complete *** clown before the season is over! I know a lot about the 12V world and can handle myself with much pride in my work. I've always wanted to compete in SPL comps but never had extra time to plan out a system and respectfully compete. Jed
My goal right now is to have a good starting point for this season. Then continue to learn, test, and try to create an spl car for competition. Also enjoy the spl atmosphere and competitiveness at a certain threshold. I don't want to be to loudest guy right out of the box and say - hey: I beat you, you and you and be a complete *** clown before the season is over! I know a lot about the 12V world and can handle myself with much pride in my work. I've always wanted to compete in SPL comps but never had extra time to plan out a system and respectfully compete. Jed
If i get you right, your goal for now is to learn and have fun.
Now, here is the second question you ask yourself - HOW Am I going to accomplish that? What are the things I need to do? Think how your car/gear can help you achieve your goal - to learn and have fun.
Thread Starter
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 9
Ok.
If i get you right, your goal for now is to learn and have fun.
Now, here is the second question you ask yourself - HOW Am I going to accomplish that? What are the things I need to do? Think how your car/gear can help you achieve your goal - to learn and have fun.
If i get you right, your goal for now is to learn and have fun.
Now, here is the second question you ask yourself - HOW Am I going to accomplish that? What are the things I need to do? Think how your car/gear can help you achieve your goal - to learn and have fun.
Ok.
If i get you right, your goal for now is to learn and have fun.
Now, here is the second question you ask yourself - HOW Am I going to accomplish that? What are the things I need to do? Think how your car/gear can help you achieve your goal - to learn and have fun.
If i get you right, your goal for now is to learn and have fun.
Now, here is the second question you ask yourself - HOW Am I going to accomplish that? What are the things I need to do? Think how your car/gear can help you achieve your goal - to learn and have fun.
I haven't got all the answers to that question yet but from reading around here and other forums it's all about trial and error. Also I figure socializing with other competitors at comp shows and getting his/hers feedback as well! Right now I want to get my class choice, wiring installed, pick a 12" sub, single amp and work them from there. I don't want to be in a wall class so either street A or B will be the path. I'm hoping to start in around 145-147 area. Years ago I was hitting with 3-12w6s - 4cuft sealed box mind you with three JBL GTS 600s - roughly 152max on the AC mic so my guess it would be 146-148 on the TL mic. Once the install is in, my plan is to start building 1 or 2 boxes depending on the driver spec and recommendations!
Anyways I'd better get off this thing and enjoy what ever weekend I have left!
i'll be back tomorrow to read & respond to more replies - Thanks everyone!
ok...you have a budget and a car...now you must pick a class...if you want to be descent you will need to be in street class because anything higher will either ruin your car or cost you more than $5000. So that said your best bet is street A because you will not have to make so much room for gear and you can get better stuff for 5000 because you will need less of it. Battery do not get Kinetik they are not a great street class battery. Get a single Odyssey 1750 and put it under the hood. Run your 4+ and 4- wires to the back. Get a good amp, Stetsom 7KD, or DD Z1a are best. In street A you only can use one amp anyway. Then get two woofers, 10" again DD 95s are great, DD 99s are great, TF1s are great, SoloXs are great. Take your pick. Once you have the main gear get a cd changer so skipping won't be a problem and take your time testing boxes. For this you will need to own a termlab so you can test. Don't waste your time with Fi or RE...they are good subs but for street class there are better out there for the same price. Most importantly go to Termpro, db drag racing, spl meter, spl car audio, loudspeaker systems, wayne harris and read the rules and know them like the back of your hand because there will be a ton of judges who don't know the rules and you will need to be confident that you are within them. So in all
Termlab $500
CD Changer $200
TF1s $800 for two
Stetsom 7Kd or similar $1500
Wire $200
Hawker 1750 $300
so that gear is 3500...
boxes...infinite
then you have some cash for gas and to register for shows and a loud setup
Termlab $500
CD Changer $200
TF1s $800 for two
Stetsom 7Kd or similar $1500
Wire $200
Hawker 1750 $300
so that gear is 3500...
boxes...infinite
then you have some cash for gas and to register for shows and a loud setup
good luck my friend..you'll find quite a bit of help on here.
just make sure you dont rush into getting the gear too quickly.
shop around, do some research and ask. make sure you get gear that you'll be using for a while and not something you're going to be switching out every so often (since you've given yourself a budget)
just make sure you dont rush into getting the gear too quickly.
shop around, do some research and ask. make sure you get gear that you'll be using for a while and not something you're going to be switching out every so often (since you've given yourself a budget)
to help you in choosing your sub I wouldreccomend one that you can easilly attain recone kits for it/them as things tend to blow up during testing and competition... this is where DD would be ruled out quickly.. i would find out how available recones are for a TF1 or possibly chose an FI sub... Fi recones are readily available and can be rebuilt using custom options to optimize the sub to your needs with couple voicecoil options and spider configurations .
I seriously doubt that if you get any half descent woofer that you will be able to blow it under the current street A rules, the 650cube battery and single amp aren't doing more than 4000wrms and any SPL sub can handle 2000wrms for 2 seconds
