ok now the top 10 amps
i was at a shop (but there not in yet )
and sometimes you find out alot by asking a noob type Q
sorrey but befor i do a set up ,i like knowing what it will do or can do
why get a F1 car when you need a suv
i think i know what i will get ,but i need to think if that is what i'm going to do next yr
do i keep the sq set up in the suv or do a spl set up or do a sq/spl set up
or junk the suv and do something new
and sometimes you find out alot by asking a noob type Q
sorrey but befor i do a set up ,i like knowing what it will do or can do
why get a F1 car when you need a suv
i think i know what i will get ,but i need to think if that is what i'm going to do next yr
do i keep the sq set up in the suv or do a spl set up or do a sq/spl set up
or junk the suv and do something new
ok i see what u are saying.
here is some advice for you then - if you are going to go for spl do not, i repeat DO NOT try to get the best out there right off the bat. Get something you can easily find and afford, it might not be the best but it will work.
i can use myself as an example, i got 2 earthquake D10 amps and a pair of Atomic APX 10's. it does a 153.5, good enough for top Street A in Canada. and it all cost me under $2k. There are guys with much better gear that costs atleast twice as much who are a few db's behind. If you take one of those mentioned amps for example, each one will go for $1000+, and to handle that kind of power you need subs that also come with a nice price tag.
in my street C set up i went with expensive amps, $4k in amps alone then another $2k in subs. all i had to show for it is 155 db's. Now with 1/3 of the power and 1/3 of the cone area it is only 1.5 db's less (with lots of room for improvement) and $4k cheaper.
The moral of the story is that in spl it's not really what you got, it's mostly how you use it.
here is some advice for you then - if you are going to go for spl do not, i repeat DO NOT try to get the best out there right off the bat. Get something you can easily find and afford, it might not be the best but it will work.
i can use myself as an example, i got 2 earthquake D10 amps and a pair of Atomic APX 10's. it does a 153.5, good enough for top Street A in Canada. and it all cost me under $2k. There are guys with much better gear that costs atleast twice as much who are a few db's behind. If you take one of those mentioned amps for example, each one will go for $1000+, and to handle that kind of power you need subs that also come with a nice price tag.
in my street C set up i went with expensive amps, $4k in amps alone then another $2k in subs. all i had to show for it is 155 db's. Now with 1/3 of the power and 1/3 of the cone area it is only 1.5 db's less (with lots of room for improvement) and $4k cheaper.
The moral of the story is that in spl it's not really what you got, it's mostly how you use it.
Last edited by Prolifik; Sep 25, 2007 at 01:52 PM.
50 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 223
Originally Posted by devon
none of those are any good for street classes with the exception of th Z1.
couple guys are using the atomics in street
starsounds are used widely by the loudest guys in europe now
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 11
Originally Posted by zzzzzzz
and why is that ?
yuli is right when it comes to testing , what i normaly do is tune with my cheapy amps then when time comes i burp at full power but the only problem sometimes my d10's blow up and i have to sit sidelines and watch shows instead of competing.
