Vanilla Gorilla

I dont know how Im doing this, but Im getting 65 amps through a 60 amp block fuse (from the batt) and my amp fuses are only rated to 60 amps also, yet Im pulling 65 from it to make 400 RMS. The fuses dont heat up or anything... wierd

PT-Chris

iTrader: (1)

Wow I really dont want this to sound like I am picking on Jordy because I have not posted in a while and now I have posted like twice in the last few days and I have quoted Jordy in both, I agree with everything he says in the above statement. The figures that he gives are the industry accepted ratings for a/b and D class amplifiers but in the real world those numbers could not really be further from the truth. For example: we tested the Visonik V4000XD which is a class D amplifier at all different loads at 17.3 volts with unlimited current because it was being fed with a 16 volt " perfect cap" (basically a huge cap that will give you 16 volts and 8400 amps for 8 seconds. or for the people that compete, one of the "brown boxes" that Chris Cecco has in his van). We found that the lower the load went the more the efficency of the amp dropped. Now this is not really suprising to anyone but we also tested the amp at 4 ohm and it was no where near the 80% mark. All the tests were done using Fluke meters and done on the same "perfect cap" with ample charging between tests. So pretty much what I am getting at is we accept the theory that D class amps are 80% efficent but at what load??? Now I realize that if we had tested another amplifier the results would be different and maybe it would match up to 80% efficent at say 4 ohm which is were most companies rate the so called power output. So basically what I am trying to say is we accept the numbers but as true and I am sure they are but at what load???

And for the real question that was asked. How much wattage could you get through an 80 amp fuse??? Theoretically you can get 1000-1200 at 12-14.4 volt, but as your voltage rises you will draw less current to create the same amount of power. So at 12-14.4 volts you can get 1000-1200 but at 16-17.2 volts you can get 1200+ watts. So I guess yulis question is not really complete. ( ahhh it feels good to give Yuli a hard time like he does to everyone else!!!)
Also last summer I ran 2 Fusion Jonah Lomu 2500's and a fusion 100.2 in my truck all off of ! 80 amp fuse and it never blew!! The 2500's were also being run at .75 so they were drawing like pigs!!! I cant explain it either?!?!?!?!?!

Sorry for the rant!!! I dont really talk much so when I do I have alot to say!!

Vladi

so u are saying u ran over 5000rms of at a very innefficient level (0.75 ohm) off an 80amp fuse with no problems? lol u know something no one else does then......oh wait i know.....u ran battcaps

[ January 12, 2005, 09:28 PM: Message edited by: Vladi ]

PT-Chris

iTrader: (1)

No no I did not run batcaps in my truck, if I gave that perception I am real sorry. In my truck which is just my daily driver. The equipment in it is as follows:
H/U: Alpine CDA 7998
Fronts: Orion Ntense 6.5 comps
Front amp: at that time it was a Fusion FP1002( 100x2)
Subs: 2 18" Treo CSX dual 1.5
Sub amps: 2 Fusion FJL1211D 2500wrms (realistically they were probably putting out 1500-1800 each at that load)
Charging system and wiring is:
Stock Dodge Dakota 160 amp cold rated alternator( from 1998 the year of the truck)
Battery is an Interstate 1200 cranking amp and 1050 cold cranking amp.
one 80 amp AGU tube fuse
and to top it all off it was all run off the battery with 4 gauage wire into a distro block in the back where it was 8 gauge to the amps!!! Can you say fire hazzard??? I can. I would always reach back feel the 8 gauge at the amps and it was never hot. I would street beat it like this and I did a few comps like that too, I think the best we had it up to was a 152.?? then we had enough points for finals so it never went out again. So I really cant explain it?!?!?!! I guess just a freak of nature. The rules of physics for some reason just did not apply I guess?

MTA

iTrader: (1)

the FJL1211d will not produce that type of power @0.75 ohms unless it was some magical amp with magical circuitry... we only managed to get close to 1400 RMS out of it running 14.4 volts..maybe you just werent running the amps to their fullest potential...or they are 150% efficient or maybe internal battery [img]smile.gif[/img] it did produce decent PEAK power... it's actuall RMS power rating is only 1250 RMS @ 12.5 volts

PT-Chris

iTrader: (1)

Now the amps that we had were modded for competition. so the amps were a little different then the ones that the general public can get. I know that you were a dealer for fusion ( not sure if you still are) so you may have had a modded version, but I am assuming that the one that you tested was not modded, as we got around the same as that I think when they were unmodded..But after the modds they made ALOT more power and were a little more efficent also. I dont know the exact power output in my truck but the bottom line is that with the three amps running and the volume up loud there was WAY over 160amps of current draw. I guess it was one magical fuse. I think it is still in my truck I will check when I get home!!!

MTA

iTrader: (1)

hahahha it's probably wrapped in tin foil from a smoke pack after blowing it at a show in butt-f*#k no where with no spare fuses at hand and you've just forgot about it all this time...hahahaha

PT-Chris

iTrader: (1)

that is funny as hell because we all know that we have been in that exact situation so many times. But I know that it is just a normal fuse and nothing like that done to it because I only put the 80 in when I put the wall in it because it had nothing in it after I ripped out the old system. I never blew a fuse the whole time so I never changed it but cant remember if I took it out when I pulled the battery when I parked it for the winter.