TRiNi_BWAi

Im currently running two P3s (2006 model, dual 4ohm) in a ported box built to specs being powered by a Fosgate t3002 and a Stinger 1.0 cap. It is very loud, but my bass is not deep enough. My birthsheet for the amp came in at 892rms at 2 ohms. I currently have 4 gauge wire in my ride (2006 Mazda 3 sedan). Which amp should I upgrade too? Im debating between the following: t5002, t8002, t5001bd, or t10001bd. Please help me with your suggestions and include whether or not I should upgrade the wiring, b/c it can be very costly. Im most likely going to be running a 5 farad Power Acousik cap with one of the amps of my choice. I have heard that u can run the t10001bd with 4 gauge, but I want to make sure its safe to do so. I listen to only reggae/rap music, and I pound it out pretty hard while im driving. I would also like to know if the t8002 can run okay with 4 gauge wiring. Oh yea, I also have an Optima Red Top under the hood as well, and the wiring is all Stinger. Please help me! I want to have the most gut wrenching, pavement cracking bass that I can have from my pair of P3s!!! Let me know the pros/cons, and your suggestions! Thank you =)

AyZe

5001 with 4 gauge kit should be fine and should sound good. if they are dual 4's wire @ 1 ohm.The majority of 5001 put out around 900rms @1ohm

Hardwrkr

iTrader: (5)

I'm wondering how you have your subs wired as you have two dual 4ohm drivers on a amp that is stable to 2ohm mono.

What type of enclosure are your subs currently in?

And considering your sus are rated at 500rms each I would suggest an amp that does ~1000rms at 1or 4ohm.

shingdaz

If your going with an amp that goes down to 1ohm then I suggest you consider how much your electrical system can handle...choosing a Class D amplifier will allow you to use power more efficiently, lightening the load off your electrical system.

unholysavage

iTrader: (1)

Loud, but not hitting deep?
Sounds like an issue with the installation and/or tuning IMO. If it's not hitting deep with your current setup, it won't hit deep just by adding more power.

Describe your enclosure: What size is your box? What is it tuned to? What vehicle is it in? Trunk, hatch, SUV? I know in my cavalier (trunk), I could hear a substantial difference in SPL and low-end by fiddling with how far forward/backward my enclosure sat, as well as a big difference between firing forward (toward interior) and backward (towards taillights). Cancellation was the likely culprit. If your box is tuned highish (ie, 40Hz), your low end will suffer as well.

You might want to fiddle with the installation a bit before spending money on more power. Just my $0.02.

Brad-S.A.

iTrader: (35)

Agreed ^^

shingdaz

To hit deep you need a larger box, tuned to between-23HZ-28HZ minimum.

AyZe

his amp is 2 ohm stable..... he has dual 4ohm....... there for he has 4 ohm load cause 1 ohm would send amp into protect..... if u underpower any sub it will seem gutless...... i had a pair of RF T1 12's in a ported box tuned to 30hz @ 4ohm and i would have taken my alpine type e's on 500 watts rms in a sealed box any day over the t1's cause of the rms @ certain ohms on the amp.

jonesbrooklyn

iTrader: (5)

eh trini chek yuh pm and gehme ah call bro. ah have someting yuh go like

TRiNi_BWAi

This is the box and port dimensions. Yes, I know its not the greatest drawing lol. The t3002 is a 2 channel amp. Each dual 4 OHM sub is being powered at 2 ohms on each channel. The birthsheet states the power at 4 ohms on each channel, which is 225watts, but not at 2 ohms. The amp does run at 2 ohms though on each channel. The Fosgate book says AVG. power on each channel at 2 ohms is 315watts.