Can this be useful in a car?
09-23-2004, 04:52 PM
#21
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Posts: n/a
Originally posted by Sassmaster:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by islandphile:
I've seen midrange drivers where the enclosure had a resonance of it's own resulting in a nasty peak around 400 Hz
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by islandphile:
I've seen midrange drivers where the enclosure had a resonance of it's own resulting in a nasty peak around 400 Hz
Some cabinetmakers will use different types and/or thicknesses of wood to make the cabinet just to avoid or out resonances.
Best bet is to make it thick and brace it well.
BUT this is about decoupling [img]smile.gif[/img]
09-23-2004, 05:01 PM
#23
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 456
Originally posted by Dukk:
Potentially - the trick is to have the baffle solid enuf that it does not move but not transmit energy to the rest of the enclosure
Potentially - the trick is to have the baffle solid enuf that it does not move but not transmit energy to the rest of the enclosure
Isolation material? something better than silicone i would imagine...
09-23-2004, 05:40 PM
#24
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One thing I have noticed with car audio competitors who use decoupling is they seem to have mega wattage available. Is it possible that they are willing to lose a few dB's through losses in the driver/baffle coupling for a trade off in tonality, and then make up for it with power? 
The world will never know [img]tongue.gif[/img]
The world will never know [img]tongue.gif[/img]
09-23-2004, 06:10 PM
#25
The way I understand it, decoupling is more SQ based anyway...so what's a few db's if your going after less resonance and an overall better sound? You adjust your subass accordingly and your off to the races.
What I can't figure out, is a way to decouple properly without using some kind of glue for the decoupled baffle. Glue would likely be useless because it has no give....silicone wouldn't work because it wouldn't adhere as well as glue and likely has too much give...so is there a happy medium?
What I can't figure out, is a way to decouple properly without using some kind of glue for the decoupled baffle. Glue would likely be useless because it has no give....silicone wouldn't work because it wouldn't adhere as well as glue and likely has too much give...so is there a happy medium?
09-24-2004, 07:46 AM
#28
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Posts: n/a
it seems logical to me that it would be very difficlut to decouple a baffle from a cabinet to any extent that would make a difference with readily available products, aka mdf, corian etc. the challenge would be to find a material suitable for it. what about the possibility of mechanically reducing resonance, some kind of transducer that would electrically and mechanically decouple, kind of like a bass shaker that could run out of phase from the music that would cancel out panel resonance with out changing the initial energy. the challenge would be how many to use, where to use them and getting one to work well over a large bandwidth. just thinking out loud
09-24-2004, 10:28 AM
#29
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,120
^^^Defro that would a challenge for sure^^
Dukk, if you don't mind me asking, which midbasses are you using? Also what frequencies are u planning on (in u'r design)giving those bad boys?
Just being nosy....I think u know where I stand on mine [img]smile.gif[/img]
Dukk, if you don't mind me asking, which midbasses are you using? Also what frequencies are u planning on (in u'r design)giving those bad boys?
Just being nosy....I think u know where I stand on mine [img]smile.gif[/img]
09-24-2004, 12:44 PM
#30
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Posts: n/a
^ I'm trying to decide if I want to cut up my doors and use my Canton 8s or stay stealth and use a 6.5" midbass. I own a couple of sets of 6.5s but am not positive what set I would use - experimentation would be my guide.
Frequency wise I go from as low as they will tolerate up to 200-300hz, or whatever meshes with the mid, which will be a Canton 4 or 5.25 depending on what fits my final KP design and how patient I am
October and November will either be a lot of fun or kill me.
Frequency wise I go from as low as they will tolerate up to 200-300hz, or whatever meshes with the mid, which will be a Canton 4 or 5.25 depending on what fits my final KP design and how patient I am
October and November will either be a lot of fun or kill me.
