Dash speaker positioning
#11
I cannot think of any coaxial speaker, regardless of how cheap, I've ever looked at that did not include at least a cap inline with the tweeter.
There are many coaxials that utilize outboard 2way crossovers, just like a component set. The Canton 4" coaxials I have at home do. Others are easy to convert too. Morel Integras (an EXCELLENT coaxial BTW) are easy to bypass the included capacitor and go full 2way. Even the Infinity coaxials with the tweeter wire trailing out the pole piece can be used with an outboard 2way or full active.
I would not be so quick to eliminate a good coaxial from your list of choices.
There are many coaxials that utilize outboard 2way crossovers, just like a component set. The Canton 4" coaxials I have at home do. Others are easy to convert too. Morel Integras (an EXCELLENT coaxial BTW) are easy to bypass the included capacitor and go full 2way. Even the Infinity coaxials with the tweeter wire trailing out the pole piece can be used with an outboard 2way or full active.
I would not be so quick to eliminate a good coaxial from your list of choices.
#13
I think I did say a "good" co-ax. As the gentlemen above noted, many good co-axials are bi-ampable, and/or have outboard cross overs just like a component set. Actually, I was thinking of the Canton RS series, and the Infinity, JBL power series, Morel Integra ovation, etc...I'm not saying they're better, just that in a simple install, it may be easier to get good sound without a lot of fuss compared to separates.
#14
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Originally Posted by Dukk
I cannot think of any coaxial speaker, regardless of how cheap, I've ever looked at that did not include at least a cap inline with the tweeter.
No matter what price you pay- you can't just assume they're there... you need to know... I was just trying to agree that coax's have a bad reputation for THIS reason... it's a shame because it shouldn't have to be that way...
#17
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Originally Posted by fozzz
What would the 8ohm resistor do??? I have also never see a coax without a cap. I think you might be confused about your parts? Or maybe you've seen some really wired speakers?
#18
Using a reistor won't help with the impedance in that way. But the cap will. That's all I'm saying.
I have my mids and tweets mounted in the dash area. The PL differences are better then my kicks. So in my case i think it's helping me more then it might help others. I've tried my mids in the sail panels, on the "A" pilars and in a bunch of other spots. Each seemed to have their own pro/con.
I have my mids and tweets mounted in the dash area. The PL differences are better then my kicks. So in my case i think it's helping me more then it might help others. I've tried my mids in the sail panels, on the "A" pilars and in a bunch of other spots. Each seemed to have their own pro/con.
#19
There are lots of good coaxes out there, even some non-car audio stuff, I've looked at a set very recently that were really interesting. including a 3 way set with a ribbon tweeter and ring mid mounted on the same plane as the 6.5" cone, it looks like a stroker
Fozz: the ohm resistor would be in parallel with the 2 other 4 ohm drivers which would be in series, which would give you a 4 ohm impedance
only problem with that is that the resistor would have to be rated for like 40 watts, which would cost more than the speakers.
that said, it's not a resistor, it's a cap, it's always a cap.
Fozz: the ohm resistor would be in parallel with the 2 other 4 ohm drivers which would be in series, which would give you a 4 ohm impedance
only problem with that is that the resistor would have to be rated for like 40 watts, which would cost more than the speakers.
that said, it's not a resistor, it's a cap, it's always a cap.