F#1 Status Up and Running
08-08-2005, 11:59 PM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
the new one will work but he wont have 3 way front end if he wants full surround. if he wants 3 way front end and surround he will have to get another 990. its one of my main beefs with the new f#1 and why im not going to change to the new 990 and also why i am trying to buy up every 900 i can get my hands on. it just seems a shame that he cant really take advantage of the flexibility he has, especially with the pillar midrange and tweeters and the midbass in the door? or floor?. either way he could probobly really use independent midbass/midrange t/a a nice flexible crossover given the install
08-09-2005, 08:15 AM
#42
Cheddar
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 558
I could have -- if the midrange crossover point was low enough. It only goes down to 1k.... I need it at around 700. I can still make it work with gentle slope, but meh, I like the F#1 for its DVD-Audio and 5.1. BTW, I'm using the IVA-D901 with the F#1 Status.
Besides, I know what I have, I know how it works. I'm the one who forked out the money, and most of all.......... I'm very happy with it. I've got navi, iPod control (40 gb iPod), 6 disc CD changer, DVD-Audio, 3 aux inputs for Nintendo, Playstation, whatever. Might even go satellite radio..... what more is there? Hell, I might as well go for another PXI-H990. While I'm at it, I'll stick a 29 inch LCD screen in the rear trunk cover. Maybe a projector with a fold out screen built into the roof rack. Why stop there....... The Ridgeline tows 5000 lbs, so I might as well..... OK, I'll stop now.
Besides, I know what I have, I know how it works. I'm the one who forked out the money, and most of all.......... I'm very happy with it. I've got navi, iPod control (40 gb iPod), 6 disc CD changer, DVD-Audio, 3 aux inputs for Nintendo, Playstation, whatever. Might even go satellite radio..... what more is there? Hell, I might as well go for another PXI-H990. While I'm at it, I'll stick a 29 inch LCD screen in the rear trunk cover. Maybe a projector with a fold out screen built into the roof rack. Why stop there....... The Ridgeline tows 5000 lbs, so I might as well..... OK, I'll stop now.
08-09-2005, 08:32 AM
#43
Cheddar
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 558
All kidding aside, I'm happy with what I have. I was disappointed to find out I couldn't do a three way up front. However, the sound of the Morel 3 ways using its passive Xover is very nice.
Like I said previously, I haven't had time to tune the system. I know I can make it work. Even now, with little to no tweaking, it sounds better than most systems out there.
Thanks for the suggestions, though, Dave. I appreciate your concerns. 1/4 the capabilities of the F#1 status is good enough for now.
Like I said previously, I haven't had time to tune the system. I know I can make it work. Even now, with little to no tweaking, it sounds better than most systems out there.
Thanks for the suggestions, though, Dave. I appreciate your concerns. 1/4 the capabilities of the F#1 status is good enough for now.
08-09-2005, 08:46 AM
#44
Mugen, so the 990 has 3-way front as in low/mid/high and then sub right? So basically a 4-way xover. And the xover point you are referring to is the midrange low pass? Lowest is 1k eh. I'm suprised they would limit the points in that unit. I would have thought any output would get a 20Hz-20Khz high or low pass, since the unit is all digital why not? Okay, maybe the tweeter output could have a higher high pass but 1k does seem not very low for a midrange low pass. But if you had a mid low pass of 700, would there be a large gap before the tweeter high pass? Seems that 700 would be pretty low for a tweeter high pass.
08-09-2005, 11:02 AM
#46
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,783
Well this whole topic has piqued my interest...so I did a little digging for some info on the 990. This whole cross over point thing really had me perplexed.
Soooo....
The 990 has 8 outputs with an MSRP of $3000 CDN????? Thats $375 per output.
The H900 has 11 outputs with an MSRP of $6400 CDN.
Thats $582 per output.
So here's what I'd do:
Get 2 H990s! (16 outputs!!!!!!!!)
3 way active front stage(6-outputs!)
2 way active center channel(2-outputs!)
2 way active rears(4-outputs!)
Stereo subs (2-outputs!)
Bose Noise Cancelling Headphones, cause people won't leave me alone! (2-outputs!)
!
Soooo....
The 990 has 8 outputs with an MSRP of $3000 CDN????? Thats $375 per output.
The H900 has 11 outputs with an MSRP of $6400 CDN.
Thats $582 per output.
So here's what I'd do:
Get 2 H990s! (16 outputs!!!!!!!!)
3 way active front stage(6-outputs!)
2 way active center channel(2-outputs!)
2 way active rears(4-outputs!)
Stereo subs (2-outputs!)
Bose Noise Cancelling Headphones, cause people won't leave me alone! (2-outputs!)
!
08-09-2005, 02:07 PM
#48
Cheddar
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 558
Yes, I would have still have purchased the newer version of the F#1. PEI330Ci hit the nail on the head. I bought the newer head unit/multimedia processor for a lot cheaper than the price for just the previous model processor.
SUX2BU, my bad....... I made an error in my wording. If I had used the tweeter crossover point that has a limit of 1K, I could have had my cake and eat it, too. Going passive between the mid and tweet and going active from woofer to mid/tweet combo would have done it. I would then have sub out, center channel out, left and right front woofer out, left and right front mid/tweeter out, and right and left rear out. Going passive on the mid/tweet would be perfect because of their location. Again, thanks for the nudge, if that was your intention.
Like I said, guys, it's still possible. I just won't have the mids playing much below 1K. A crossover slope of 6db/octave will help. The crossover point of the Morel passive is set at 700hz between the woofer and mid, and 4.8 kHz between the mid and tweeter. The quality and design of the Morel crosover is top notch. It was not slapped together with cheap parts.
At this stage of the game, it's all trial and error, and having fun tweaking -- listening lots and enjoying what I have. All that makes paying the big bucks for this equipment worth it. I have no other hobbies, other than Canadian philately, to keep me occupied. Kids have all grown up, wife doesn't pay much attention to me, work is getting to be just a routine, street racing is kind of illegal, and I'm close to retirement. I refuse to admit my hearing is no good anymore.......... youth is wasted on the young, damn it!
SUX2BU, my bad....... I made an error in my wording. If I had used the tweeter crossover point that has a limit of 1K, I could have had my cake and eat it, too. Going passive between the mid and tweet and going active from woofer to mid/tweet combo would have done it. I would then have sub out, center channel out, left and right front woofer out, left and right front mid/tweeter out, and right and left rear out. Going passive on the mid/tweet would be perfect because of their location. Again, thanks for the nudge, if that was your intention.
Like I said, guys, it's still possible. I just won't have the mids playing much below 1K. A crossover slope of 6db/octave will help. The crossover point of the Morel passive is set at 700hz between the woofer and mid, and 4.8 kHz between the mid and tweeter. The quality and design of the Morel crosover is top notch. It was not slapped together with cheap parts.
At this stage of the game, it's all trial and error, and having fun tweaking -- listening lots and enjoying what I have. All that makes paying the big bucks for this equipment worth it. I have no other hobbies, other than Canadian philately, to keep me occupied. Kids have all grown up, wife doesn't pay much attention to me, work is getting to be just a routine, street racing is kind of illegal, and I'm close to retirement. I refuse to admit my hearing is no good anymore.......... youth is wasted on the young, damn it!
08-09-2005, 03:14 PM
#50
Yankee
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,599
you are hardly using the x-over capability, t/a capability, the phase adjustment capability, and electronic is always better in car audio. i just thought someone buying one of the best pieces made would actually use more of it, not 1/4 of it.
My point is, that from a minimalist point of view the equipment must sound good with all the bells and whistles turned off. And from the non-minimalist point of view, it should sound better with the bells and whistles turned on. The goal here is to just enough sound enhancement, not too much or too little, to get the sound right.
The F#1 HU is an excellent minimalist rig… and is almost a bargain… at its price point, I am not sure it out performs my McIntosh but I have 3 cars so why not 3 wildly different stereos. I may buy an F#1 HU this year (next year the 990 to go with it). And then, maybe a Sparkomatic for the wifes car.
Hmmmm a true center channel would be nice
[ August 09, 2005, 05:43 PM: Message edited by: JohnVroom ]
