Going loud wat more bass less treble
07-21-2004, 08:18 PM
#1
50 Watt CAFz'r
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 375
Ok I am trying to solve a long going problem with my stereo in my car. First off I have an Alpine CDA-7893 headunit, and 1 4 channel pioneer amp (not sure of the model) but its a 75Wx4 running currently 4 infinity REF652I multi-element series speakers installed but I have 2 sets of Infinity REF605CS Component system speakers comming. But i dont this will fix my problem. So I need some help!
I want to upgrade my speakers to try to get more loudness to my radio but with more bass and less treble when doing so. Currently when I turn my radio up to a good highway driving level I get the ear piercing highs and my subs produce all the bass. I want my 4 6.5" speakers to help produce more mid bass in the car and less trebble like they are doing currenty.
I listen to Alternative rock mainly, if anything else is needed please let me know!
[ July 21, 2004, 09:19 PM: Message edited by: Kwalsh24 ]
I want to upgrade my speakers to try to get more loudness to my radio but with more bass and less treble when doing so. Currently when I turn my radio up to a good highway driving level I get the ear piercing highs and my subs produce all the bass. I want my 4 6.5" speakers to help produce more mid bass in the car and less trebble like they are doing currenty.
I listen to Alternative rock mainly, if anything else is needed please let me know!
[ July 21, 2004, 09:19 PM: Message edited by: Kwalsh24 ]
07-21-2004, 09:04 PM
#3
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What kind of car? Where are the speakers located? Any sound deadening added? Infinity are usually a bit brighter than average, not quite MB Quart level, but brightness "pops" on a showroom floor and helps sell speakers. On the components you can attenuate the tweeters 3 dB as well, so that might help.
07-21-2004, 09:23 PM
#4
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Sorry I did not include the sub setup, I have a MTX 6500D running the subs wich are 2 Image Dynamics IDQ12D4 V2, but am Getting a Crossfire 1000D to replace that.
As for the car its a 91 acura integra 2 door and the speaker location 2 is in the lower part of the door door and ubove the rear shock towers. No sound deadining has been added, I dont think I really need it yet.
In the radio I have the treble set to -2 and the HP crossovers off/flat and I have the LP crossovers set to 80....
The radio sounds fine at a standstill volume level but when you drive I like to turn the volume up and thuse creates this problem....
[ July 21, 2004, 10:36 PM: Message edited by: Kwalsh24 ]
As for the car its a 91 acura integra 2 door and the speaker location 2 is in the lower part of the door door and ubove the rear shock towers. No sound deadining has been added, I dont think I really need it yet.
In the radio I have the treble set to -2 and the HP crossovers off/flat and I have the LP crossovers set to 80....
The radio sounds fine at a standstill volume level but when you drive I like to turn the volume up and thuse creates this problem....
[ July 21, 2004, 10:36 PM: Message edited by: Kwalsh24 ]
07-22-2004, 08:08 AM
#8
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,120
Simple and very common problem really...Sound deadening and sealing the enclosure is exactly what you need right now, and doing anything else at this point is a waste of money. The fashion in which the mid is mounted is the only way to produce a more pronounced level of sound from your midrange & midbass. Imagine if your home speakers were mounted in a cardboard box instead of speaker cabinets...I bet they would sound pretty thin with very poor response....weeelll it's kinda like that with your doors and rear deck....all in the install!!
The KEY is to create proper isolation of the rear and front wave by sealing your doors (under the door skin over the entire area the door panel covers)with sound deadening and mount the speakers on proper monting rings made of wood, plywood, or mdf. Make sure your seal the wood with a waterproofing product. If you do this you will be well on your way to creating excellent mid & midbass response.
PS: Make sure your speakers are in phase, eh!
The KEY is to create proper isolation of the rear and front wave by sealing your doors (under the door skin over the entire area the door panel covers)with sound deadening and mount the speakers on proper monting rings made of wood, plywood, or mdf. Make sure your seal the wood with a waterproofing product. If you do this you will be well on your way to creating excellent mid & midbass response.
PS: Make sure your speakers are in phase, eh!
07-22-2004, 11:14 AM
#9
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 375
Ok, well that may get done when i tear down the car for a body job then i guess.
Has anyone out there ever installed this into a 91 Acura integra 2 door and could possibly tell me aprox how much material I would need lol?
[ July 22, 2004, 12:19 PM: Message edited by: Kwalsh24 ]
Has anyone out there ever installed this into a 91 Acura integra 2 door and could possibly tell me aprox how much material I would need lol?
[ July 22, 2004, 12:19 PM: Message edited by: Kwalsh24 ]
07-22-2004, 07:37 PM
#10
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It's not really a big job, quite honestly. Here is a simplified list of steps:
1. Remove door panels and speakers.
2. Take off vapor barrier.
3. Clean metal door suface with acetone or solvent to remove glues, dirt, impurities.
4. Cut out a mounting trim ring of mdf or plywood or mansonite. Paint with exterior grade paint like a Krylon fast dry (spray can) Black usually looks the best.
5. Screw in the mounting ring. Make sure it clears the inside of the door panel when the door panel is on. If not, use a thinner ring on the outside, and maybe a thicker piece inside and in behind. The inside the door piece can be rectangular, or what ever fits, just match the size of your hole to the OEM opening. Jig saw should work fast. If you do this, make sure the window mechanism is not obstructed.
6. Seal mounting ring and/or board to metal with caulking.
7. Get a paint removing heat gun ready. (Heavy duty hair dryer thing..)
8. Measure a template made of cardboard to get the size & shape of the inner door frame. Cut enough dampening material (Dynamat Extreme works good)to cover the entire area behind the door panel, less about 1-2inches all around.
9.Peel off the adhesive backing and heat the adhesive with the Heat Gun until it's sticky.
10. Quickly apply to door.
11. Smooth out bubbles with a wooden or plastic roller.
12. Trim off excess.
13. Apply a second layer if you want even better results.
14. Re-install Speaker and door panel.
If you want even more dramatic results seal the bigger holes in the door with thin pieces of mdf. Caulk around to seal to metal, then apply Dynamat or similar over the whole works.
You should be able to complete the whole thing in like 4-6 hours even if you are a novice. The most complicated part might be just removing the door panel if you've never done it before. After you figure that out it should be a piece of cake. Your local shop (where you bought all your gear)would probably pop them off for ya no prob!
Good luck!
1. Remove door panels and speakers.
2. Take off vapor barrier.
3. Clean metal door suface with acetone or solvent to remove glues, dirt, impurities.
4. Cut out a mounting trim ring of mdf or plywood or mansonite. Paint with exterior grade paint like a Krylon fast dry (spray can) Black usually looks the best.
5. Screw in the mounting ring. Make sure it clears the inside of the door panel when the door panel is on. If not, use a thinner ring on the outside, and maybe a thicker piece inside and in behind. The inside the door piece can be rectangular, or what ever fits, just match the size of your hole to the OEM opening. Jig saw should work fast. If you do this, make sure the window mechanism is not obstructed.
6. Seal mounting ring and/or board to metal with caulking.
7. Get a paint removing heat gun ready. (Heavy duty hair dryer thing..)
8. Measure a template made of cardboard to get the size & shape of the inner door frame. Cut enough dampening material (Dynamat Extreme works good)to cover the entire area behind the door panel, less about 1-2inches all around.
9.Peel off the adhesive backing and heat the adhesive with the Heat Gun until it's sticky.
10. Quickly apply to door.
11. Smooth out bubbles with a wooden or plastic roller.
12. Trim off excess.
13. Apply a second layer if you want even better results.
14. Re-install Speaker and door panel.
If you want even more dramatic results seal the bigger holes in the door with thin pieces of mdf. Caulk around to seal to metal, then apply Dynamat or similar over the whole works.
You should be able to complete the whole thing in like 4-6 hours even if you are a novice. The most complicated part might be just removing the door panel if you've never done it before. After you figure that out it should be a piece of cake. Your local shop (where you bought all your gear)would probably pop them off for ya no prob!
Good luck!
