Going loud wat more bass less treble
Kick panels will NOT inherently give loud midbass and upper midbass unless they have sufficient airspace in behind. Most often even with a 6 inch driver there is not enough volume in the kick-panel enclosure to play cleanly and with loud volume to say below 80 Hz...why??? Because most drivers are designed to work in an IB install, like a door or a trunk. That's why most serious guys end up creating kickpanels to play 80-120 Hz and up, and then installing an extra set of midbasses in the doors to get the air volume a lower octave playing driver requires to play low loud midbass.
Not to shoot anyone down here, but the guy's problem is essentially no lower midrange or midbass. Sounds like he's got maybe even too much bass, lots of screaming midrange and treble. So turning down the gain on the amp or building kicks or adding more power will not solve his problem (Unless the kicks are vented from behind). Until he takes care of installing his drivers in the doors properly sealed, his system will sound non-linear. The two keys here are the volume of the airspace being sufficient to match the design of the driver(which the door is) and the sealing of the enclosure(door).
If he really wanted to go whole hog I would suggest kicks for imaging and midbasses in sealed doors. That means a three way front end and probably another amp too. He would probably be satisfied with the equipment he has now as long as it's correctly installed.
Not to shoot anyone down here, but the guy's problem is essentially no lower midrange or midbass. Sounds like he's got maybe even too much bass, lots of screaming midrange and treble. So turning down the gain on the amp or building kicks or adding more power will not solve his problem (Unless the kicks are vented from behind). Until he takes care of installing his drivers in the doors properly sealed, his system will sound non-linear. The two keys here are the volume of the airspace being sufficient to match the design of the driver(which the door is) and the sealing of the enclosure(door).
If he really wanted to go whole hog I would suggest kicks for imaging and midbasses in sealed doors. That means a three way front end and probably another amp too. He would probably be satisfied with the equipment he has now as long as it's correctly installed.
ok yea I was on the wrong track, was corected by a friend. Anyhow my main problem is not knowing if my seals are leaking for the windows or not. My speakers are in a plastic enclosure, so my plan was to cutt the lower part of the plastic enclosure off anr seal the top so this way the water does not get near the speakers. After that will see if the sound is better. As for the gain its et to normal zone on the amp....
That should sound a little better as the speaker can work with the full airspace in the door.
Don't worry about leaking in the window seals, the main thing is isolation of the front and rear wave of the speaker...cover the holes in the door like DWVW did in the pics earlier in this thread and make sure the speaker is well sealed in the door, and preferrably mounted on a wooden ring or board (baffle) which is screwed down & sealed onto the door metal, again like DWVW's pics show.
Don't worry about leaking in the window seals, the main thing is isolation of the front and rear wave of the speaker...cover the holes in the door like DWVW did in the pics earlier in this thread and make sure the speaker is well sealed in the door, and preferrably mounted on a wooden ring or board (baffle) which is screwed down & sealed onto the door metal, again like DWVW's pics show.
You could always get a peice of pvc and cut it to length that would fit inside the door (through the stock hole--may need cutting on the hole) and mold a back on it and then fiberglass a face to it so that it would mount to the back of the door and creat an enclosure. I've seen/heard more than one install done like this and it sounded great.
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