How to get tight bass
#1
How to get tight bass
Greetings
New to car audio and I am wondering if anyone can give me advice on how to get tight bass in my Lancer.
I am going to be running a 5 channel amp with 300 x 4 ohm or 450 x 2 ohm available for the sub. Amp and sub will be in the trunk and I will be going with a sealed enclosure I presume.
Please feel free to correct me if this is not the best route. Any suggestions or instructions on how to go about this process would be most welcomed. I am thinking either a 10" or 8" sub but I am a newbie.
Rgds
EJM
New to car audio and I am wondering if anyone can give me advice on how to get tight bass in my Lancer.
I am going to be running a 5 channel amp with 300 x 4 ohm or 450 x 2 ohm available for the sub. Amp and sub will be in the trunk and I will be going with a sealed enclosure I presume.
Please feel free to correct me if this is not the best route. Any suggestions or instructions on how to go about this process would be most welcomed. I am thinking either a 10" or 8" sub but I am a newbie.
Rgds
EJM
#5
What is your Budget? and what 5 channel amp is it?
The key thing is not to skimp on the box. Get it built well (proper volume, screws, glued, siliconed corners, 12guage min wire)
Two 10's or Four 8's.
4 Image Dynamics 8's are pefect for the task!
2 Kicker L5 8's would do the job too!
4 JL Audio 8w3v3 would re-arrange your trunk pannels
2 JL Audio 10w6v2 would be great as well!
I'm using two JL 10w1's sealed in separate chambers and these things are nice and tight!
The key thing is not to skimp on the box. Get it built well (proper volume, screws, glued, siliconed corners, 12guage min wire)
Two 10's or Four 8's.
4 Image Dynamics 8's are pefect for the task!
2 Kicker L5 8's would do the job too!
4 JL Audio 8w3v3 would re-arrange your trunk pannels
2 JL Audio 10w6v2 would be great as well!
I'm using two JL 10w1's sealed in separate chambers and these things are nice and tight!
#6
You can use pretty much any sub you want. The key is to avoid having a bloated bottom end, meaning you need to avoid drowning out your front end and you also are probably best with a mid Qtc sealed enclosure to match well with your vehicle's transfer function. Like Haunz mentioned, Qtc of 0.7 to 0.8 should be just fine. If you go much lower than that or go ported, it's quite possible that after cabin gain, you will end up with a rising bottom end that is usually interpreted as sloppy. It's all about frequency response in this situation.
#7
Sealed box and a sub that performs well in it. The Eclipse aluminum cone is an ideal sub for this situation. It takes a nice small sealed box and powered properly, will deliver exactly what you are looking for. This was one of the subs being considered for the other Lancer from Nanaimo that we are working on. I have a pair of these subs in a Durango if you would care to have a listen to them.
#9
This is proably outside of the scope for what you need but, it is to be kept in mind.
Tight base is more then just the subwoofer, but what defines it the most is of course your midbase, if you have inadequate midbase, it is going to sound sloppy. The midbase is what defines the hit and makes it sound crisp.
Even then though, that's not where it ends, somewhere in the upper frequencies ( I will say maybe around 500 to 2000 hz), yet again more definition can be found for drums and other deep percussions.
Tight base is more then just the subwoofer, but what defines it the most is of course your midbase, if you have inadequate midbase, it is going to sound sloppy. The midbase is what defines the hit and makes it sound crisp.
Even then though, that's not where it ends, somewhere in the upper frequencies ( I will say maybe around 500 to 2000 hz), yet again more definition can be found for drums and other deep percussions.
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