intersting tweeter high pass situation
01-30-2008, 12:06 AM
#1
intersting tweeter high pass situation
ok, so the high pass on my amp only goes up to 220hz, now im sure that doesn't sound like a problem so far if my source unit was 'normal'
im using a computer and upon sound driver initialization it makes a little thump at some frequency, or if i re-boot it does this aswell, so im debating 3 options.
1: wire the tweet through a post amp high pass filter to at least keep low frequency's away from the tweet (but once the comp processing loads that crossover will be at a higher frequency) so the post amp one is like a redundant safety. i don't really want anything post amp though.
2: wire in a delay or a mute switch so i can keep the amps off until i want them on but thats a pain in the ***
3: can i put in a pre-amp crossover?
basically i don't want anything post amp (although i have no real reasoning behind why) and if i do do a post amp thing it would end up being redundant as soon as the computer finishes booting just like the 220hz one on the amp becomes.
also, i suppose if this 'thump' is below 220hz it wouldn't matter and this question woudl be silly?
im using a computer and upon sound driver initialization it makes a little thump at some frequency, or if i re-boot it does this aswell, so im debating 3 options.
1: wire the tweet through a post amp high pass filter to at least keep low frequency's away from the tweet (but once the comp processing loads that crossover will be at a higher frequency) so the post amp one is like a redundant safety. i don't really want anything post amp though.
2: wire in a delay or a mute switch so i can keep the amps off until i want them on but thats a pain in the ***
3: can i put in a pre-amp crossover?
basically i don't want anything post amp (although i have no real reasoning behind why) and if i do do a post amp thing it would end up being redundant as soon as the computer finishes booting just like the 220hz one on the amp becomes.
also, i suppose if this 'thump' is below 220hz it wouldn't matter and this question woudl be silly?
01-30-2008, 12:17 AM
#2
ok, so the high pass on my amp only goes up to 220hz, now im sure that doesn't sound like a problem so far if my source unit was 'normal'
im using a computer and upon sound driver initialization it makes a little thump at some frequency, or if i re-boot it does this aswell, so im debating 3 options.
1: wire the tweet through a post amp high pass filter to at least keep low frequency's away from the tweet (but once the comp processing loads that crossover will be at a higher frequency) so the post amp one is like a redundant safety. i don't really want anything post amp though.
2: wire in a delay or a mute switch so i can keep the amps off until i want them on but thats a pain in the ***
3: can i put in a pre-amp crossover?
basically i don't want anything post amp (although i have no real reasoning behind why) and if i do do a post amp thing it would end up being redundant as soon as the computer finishes booting just like the 220hz one on the amp becomes.
also, i suppose if this 'thump' is below 220hz it wouldn't matter and this question woudl be silly?
im using a computer and upon sound driver initialization it makes a little thump at some frequency, or if i re-boot it does this aswell, so im debating 3 options.
1: wire the tweet through a post amp high pass filter to at least keep low frequency's away from the tweet (but once the comp processing loads that crossover will be at a higher frequency) so the post amp one is like a redundant safety. i don't really want anything post amp though.
2: wire in a delay or a mute switch so i can keep the amps off until i want them on but thats a pain in the ***
3: can i put in a pre-amp crossover?
basically i don't want anything post amp (although i have no real reasoning behind why) and if i do do a post amp thing it would end up being redundant as soon as the computer finishes booting just like the 220hz one on the amp becomes.
also, i suppose if this 'thump' is below 220hz it wouldn't matter and this question woudl be silly?
If you have thumping at 220HZ you are going to smoke those little things real quick, build a passive network... look here for what you need...
http://www.partsexpress.com/crossovers.cfm
this stuff is relatively cheap as well so you could play with different crossover points as well. Also L pads are not a bad idea either they allow you to individually adjust the Level of each tweeter, this is good for helping the soundstage in some applications.
01-30-2008, 12:48 AM
#3
hmmm ok, the one reason i didnt want post amp stuff is i dont want any signal loss or impedance/resistance? increase, although i presume this wouldn't mess it up much/at all? or i am bassing my thereoys of crap
01-30-2008, 02:41 AM
#4
What kind of tweeters are you using???
01-30-2008, 10:50 AM
#5
im using last years Type R's 
i have no specs on them so i have decided it must be similar to the focals that look kinda the same
im thinking of getting new speaks but id like to hear things first because the 'really good' ones get very expensive, also i would want to do a 3 way setup if/when i do get new. i paid 100 bucks for mine.
also, the whole reason i am using the computer is for full processing power, ive got all the stuff to do time delay/eq/crossover but only after the darn thing boots. for some reason i have gotten it stuck in my head that passive crossovers are lame.
thanks for the parts express link, i like that place, but it's based in the states right?
i have no specs on them so i have decided it must be similar to the focals that look kinda the same
im thinking of getting new speaks but id like to hear things first because the 'really good' ones get very expensive, also i would want to do a 3 way setup if/when i do get new. i paid 100 bucks for mine.
also, the whole reason i am using the computer is for full processing power, ive got all the stuff to do time delay/eq/crossover but only after the darn thing boots. for some reason i have gotten it stuck in my head that passive crossovers are lame.
thanks for the parts express link, i like that place, but it's based in the states right?
Last edited by SHOwagon; 01-30-2008 at 10:52 AM.
01-30-2008, 02:31 PM
#6
im using last years Type R's
i have no specs on them so i have decided it must be similar to the focals that look kinda the same
im thinking of getting new speaks but id like to hear things first because the 'really good' ones get very expensive, also i would want to do a 3 way setup if/when i do get new. i paid 100 bucks for mine.
also, the whole reason i am using the computer is for full processing power, ive got all the stuff to do time delay/eq/crossover but only after the darn thing boots. for some reason i have gotten it stuck in my head that passive crossovers are lame.
thanks for the parts express link, i like that place, but it's based in the states right?
i have no specs on them so i have decided it must be similar to the focals that look kinda the same
im thinking of getting new speaks but id like to hear things first because the 'really good' ones get very expensive, also i would want to do a 3 way setup if/when i do get new. i paid 100 bucks for mine.
also, the whole reason i am using the computer is for full processing power, ive got all the stuff to do time delay/eq/crossover but only after the darn thing boots. for some reason i have gotten it stuck in my head that passive crossovers are lame.
thanks for the parts express link, i like that place, but it's based in the states right?
Yes, they are but they ship to Canada no problem!
01-30-2008, 03:37 PM
#7
Administrator
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 16,855
Have you tried turning the high pass on the amp on? If not......why? Your solution could be right there.
If that doesn't relieve it then you need a preamp or passive crossover. Passive is easier - use a ~47uf (really anything 10-100uf) cap inline with the tweeter. Any install shop should have these on the shelf.
If that doesn't relieve it then you need a preamp or passive crossover. Passive is easier - use a ~47uf (really anything 10-100uf) cap inline with the tweeter. Any install shop should have these on the shelf.
01-30-2008, 08:16 PM
#8
If the problem is with a signal/ground loop causing a pop as the soundcard turns on then a GLI might fix the poblem and would be worth a shot... also try running your PC's power supply from a seperate 12v battery not hooked up to the car... if it goes away you need a better quality supply with floating ground...
If the soundcard is going to throw out a pop no matter what you do a relay on your amp's turn on lead is your only answer... check out the pop eliminators at David Navone - Car Audio Engineering
If the soundcard is going to throw out a pop no matter what you do a relay on your amp's turn on lead is your only answer... check out the pop eliminators at David Navone - Car Audio Engineering
01-31-2008, 01:03 AM
#9
i have the highpass on the amp on and for all i know it is protecting the tweet, but i don't know at exactly what frequency the thump is at, the amp will only high pass up to 220hz so if the thump is above that the amp high pass does nothing. the sound card does what it does, so i cant change that, technically if i wanted to compete or something i understand i must have no thump so really i should wire in a delay or relay, but for now a passive crossover it may be.
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