Location of drivers
10-28-2007, 11:05 PM
#1
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 69
Location of drivers
So i got this a few days ago:
Now for the meantime I think I'm going to use the momo mmc6500 driver for midbass (or not use it at all) until I settle for a decent midbass driver. I was curious if anyone has any opinions on the location of the sr components and momo/midbass driver. I'm going to be modifying the door a little so the speakers will be facing about the same direction as the Qform kicks.
so these are pretty much my options:
- momo driver in door, SR's in kicks and the tweets in the a-pillar.
- momo driver in door, SR's in kicks along with the tweets
- SR's in the door, momo driver in the kicks and tweets in kicks or a-pillar.
I'm pretty confident that first option will prolly be the best based on the setups i've seen, but I thought I'd get some input. I might have to go with the second choice if I have trouble mounting the tweets (i don't actually have a place for them in an a-pillar so i'd have to fabricate something). This probably wont get done for another few months as I really don't have any free time in sight. And it'll be freezing by the time I do.
As always, thanks for any advice.
Now for the meantime I think I'm going to use the momo mmc6500 driver for midbass (or not use it at all) until I settle for a decent midbass driver. I was curious if anyone has any opinions on the location of the sr components and momo/midbass driver. I'm going to be modifying the door a little so the speakers will be facing about the same direction as the Qform kicks.
so these are pretty much my options:
- momo driver in door, SR's in kicks and the tweets in the a-pillar.
- momo driver in door, SR's in kicks along with the tweets
- SR's in the door, momo driver in the kicks and tweets in kicks or a-pillar.
I'm pretty confident that first option will prolly be the best based on the setups i've seen, but I thought I'd get some input. I might have to go with the second choice if I have trouble mounting the tweets (i don't actually have a place for them in an a-pillar so i'd have to fabricate something). This probably wont get done for another few months as I really don't have any free time in sight. And it'll be freezing by the time I do.
As always, thanks for any advice.
11-01-2007, 11:21 PM
#2
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 69
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With a little hlep, I found that mixing drivers like that is a bad idea. I'm going to start off using those components and just have a 2-way setup and go from there. If I feel that I need more bass I'll get a dedicated midbass driver.
With a little hlep, I found that mixing drivers like that is a bad idea. I'm going to start off using those components and just have a 2-way setup and go from there. If I feel that I need more bass I'll get a dedicated midbass driver.
11-05-2007, 08:03 AM
#3
What kind of car/truck?
Put the tweeter up in the a-pillar area almost at the bottom (as far forward as possible)........... facing pretty much parallel with the glass and directly across with a very slight tilt up...... using the glass as a "kinda" wave guide. It's pretty easy to fabricate up some a-pillar tweet pods externally to your a-pillar and "tie" them down with a picture frame wire to the underside of the dash......... assuming you don't want to hack up your a-pillars or dash. I've done this a number of times and it works pretty well. Nicer to actually cut the tweet into the A-pillar and move it outwards a much as possible......... but cutting and hacking is not always possible.
Put the tweeter up in the a-pillar area almost at the bottom (as far forward as possible)........... facing pretty much parallel with the glass and directly across with a very slight tilt up...... using the glass as a "kinda" wave guide. It's pretty easy to fabricate up some a-pillar tweet pods externally to your a-pillar and "tie" them down with a picture frame wire to the underside of the dash......... assuming you don't want to hack up your a-pillars or dash. I've done this a number of times and it works pretty well. Nicer to actually cut the tweet into the A-pillar and move it outwards a much as possible......... but cutting and hacking is not always possible.
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