Questions about Alpine CDA 7990 and Focal TLRs
#32
Mmmmmm F-40. Such a sexy car. Gimme that anyday over an F-50. Enzo? Toss up but the F-40 is ubercool. Ford GT40 (new or orignal, but if it's original make it a 427 Mark II please)? Yep, I'd take it over any of those Italian jobs
#33
I haven't really had a chance to check out the DXE, but it isn't a 30 band eq, or is it Tom?
Looks cool...I love equipment that comes in REALLY long rectangular heatsinks but It does have a 4way crossover I believe or, I could be wrong again, it's happened once before.
Yea, I agree with Tom, the 8250Ti is probably the best bang for buck out there....really sweet sound, AWESOME looks(the gold buttons and aluminum face look sweet together) and VERY simple to use with an easy to understand manual that is not as long as a Stephen King novel like some of the Eclipse units. Would work well with an H900 or H700.....Or a Behringer [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
Looks cool...I love equipment that comes in REALLY long rectangular heatsinks but It does have a 4way crossover I believe or, I could be wrong again, it's happened once before.
Yea, I agree with Tom, the 8250Ti is probably the best bang for buck out there....really sweet sound, AWESOME looks(the gold buttons and aluminum face look sweet together) and VERY simple to use with an easy to understand manual that is not as long as a Stephen King novel like some of the Eclipse units. Would work well with an H900 or H700.....Or a Behringer [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
#34
Originally posted by SUX 2BU:
Mmmmmm F-40. Such a sexy car. Gimme that anyday over an F-50. Enzo? Toss up but the F-40 is ubercool. Ford GT40 (new or orignal, but if it's original make it a 427 Mark II please)? Yep, I'd take it over any of those Italian jobs
Mmmmmm F-40. Such a sexy car. Gimme that anyday over an F-50. Enzo? Toss up but the F-40 is ubercool. Ford GT40 (new or orignal, but if it's original make it a 427 Mark II please)? Yep, I'd take it over any of those Italian jobs
Or maybe a 92 Mustang with Ford's proto type V-10 that's slated to be in the new Cobra.
#35
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pardon my ignorance guys, but what is a behringer, i guess im far out of the loop but never heard of it
i did a bit of reasearch and that little bugger seems like great value for 250$$ u.s. i'd like to try one, where are they available, im not a big fan of using multiple d/a-a/d converters, like the dqt,dqx and so on but that behringer seems like a way better value than the ac stuff [img]graemlins/beer.gif[/img]
[ June 01, 2004, 09:41 AM: Message edited by: defro ]
i did a bit of reasearch and that little bugger seems like great value for 250$$ u.s. i'd like to try one, where are they available, im not a big fan of using multiple d/a-a/d converters, like the dqt,dqx and so on but that behringer seems like a way better value than the ac stuff [img]graemlins/beer.gif[/img]
[ June 01, 2004, 09:41 AM: Message edited by: defro ]
#36
For processing, I think Behringer is easily the best value out there.
Not expensive at all compared to some like IDQ31's or Rane.
got to www.behringer.com
Check them out ,they have a lot of excellent proccessors, they are built for pro audio however..but you can get 12v mods...which still make it legal for IASCA competition and they are cheap....talk to RobM on ECA he's the best guy to get the mod from. I don't know if there's many music stores near you...a lot of guitar/music shops are starting to bring in Behringer and could likely order the EQ that you like.
However I don't believe you can still get the 8024....next best unit for around the same price is the 1024....it does not have the screen it is an analoge 31 band eq with the 24/48 bit proccessor and a feedback eliminator....
Best unit I can think of that they make.....although it's $530 canadian before the 12v mod and taxes is the 2496....totally digital, with digital inputs and outputs, several software programs to let you expand the unit's functionality and just a really cool look too. TONS of features....both the 8024 and 2496 have built in RTA and hardware option to further expand the units.
[ June 01, 2004, 10:02 AM: Message edited by: Brandon ]
Not expensive at all compared to some like IDQ31's or Rane.
got to www.behringer.com
Check them out ,they have a lot of excellent proccessors, they are built for pro audio however..but you can get 12v mods...which still make it legal for IASCA competition and they are cheap....talk to RobM on ECA he's the best guy to get the mod from. I don't know if there's many music stores near you...a lot of guitar/music shops are starting to bring in Behringer and could likely order the EQ that you like.
However I don't believe you can still get the 8024....next best unit for around the same price is the 1024....it does not have the screen it is an analoge 31 band eq with the 24/48 bit proccessor and a feedback eliminator....
Best unit I can think of that they make.....although it's $530 canadian before the 12v mod and taxes is the 2496....totally digital, with digital inputs and outputs, several software programs to let you expand the unit's functionality and just a really cool look too. TONS of features....both the 8024 and 2496 have built in RTA and hardware option to further expand the units.
[ June 01, 2004, 10:02 AM: Message edited by: Brandon ]
#37
The Arc Audio DXE is an ALL analogue 4 way X.O. and multiband parametric EQ that is digitally controlled.
As far as I know, there is just one in Canada currently. Last I heard, the owner has got the silly giggles...
Adam
As far as I know, there is just one in Canada currently. Last I heard, the owner has got the silly giggles...
Adam
#39
Well Brandon, just a little note on parametrics vs. graphic eqs.... a 7 band parametric has quite a bit more capability & flexibity ( call it more effective ability) than a 1/3 octave graphic (usually 30 band).
Whereas a graphic EQ has specific designated frequncies assigned by the manufacturer at 1/3 octave intervals, a parametric eq allows you to set the actual frequency where the boost/cut is needed, I really like when you can also set the broadness/peakiness of the curve at the frequency of your choosing, referred to as the Q.
As an eqample you could set a frequency at say 150 Hz, maybe you were having a bit of a midbass peak problem...then assign a nice fat Q so that frequncies on both sides of 150 Hz also move in the same direction as your cut, say from 100 to 225 Hz. The wonder of parametric EQ is the ability to affect the entire section of the curve between 100 and 225 Hz by centering on 150 Hz. The curve will be more affected at the tuning frequency and less as you move further away.
You could also choose a skinnier Q and affect only frequencies closer to 150, say 140 to 170 Hz.
Parametric all the way [img]smile.gif[/img] .
Whereas a graphic EQ has specific designated frequncies assigned by the manufacturer at 1/3 octave intervals, a parametric eq allows you to set the actual frequency where the boost/cut is needed, I really like when you can also set the broadness/peakiness of the curve at the frequency of your choosing, referred to as the Q.
As an eqample you could set a frequency at say 150 Hz, maybe you were having a bit of a midbass peak problem...then assign a nice fat Q so that frequncies on both sides of 150 Hz also move in the same direction as your cut, say from 100 to 225 Hz. The wonder of parametric EQ is the ability to affect the entire section of the curve between 100 and 225 Hz by centering on 150 Hz. The curve will be more affected at the tuning frequency and less as you move further away.
You could also choose a skinnier Q and affect only frequencies closer to 150, say 140 to 170 Hz.
Parametric all the way [img]smile.gif[/img] .
#40
I'm hoping to aviod having to use any EQ at all by the time I'm finished. I've used the parametric EQ function of the DQX far more than I have the 30 bands of static EQ. Even then, I'm convinced that it's the last thing you should use to fix and acoustical problem.
Some techniques to consider before EQing:
-Drivers
-Driver enclosure volume
-Driver mounting angle, and location
-Driver baffle material and thickness
-Enclosure shape (interior wall proximity to driver)
-Interior enclosure dampening(would include materials adhered to enclosure walls and stuffing material)
-Near field relflective surface dampening.(this would include dash underside padding or the covering/removal of reflective surfaces in general)
-Far field relflective surface dampening(namely the roof)
-Panel resonance dampening (namely doors, and rear seat/trunk area. But, roofs have been known to benifit from this)
-Cross over frequency and slope
-Individual level setting of each driver (Gains)
AFTER optimizing all of the above, try to pick just ONE area that you feel needs to be improved. Pick only one frequency, and play with that in small increments for a week. Here's the key, USE A LOG BOOK. Write down your settings, how it sounds, and other general impressions. Keep a diary of what you are doing on the car. It helps to chart trends, and your over all progress. If you are serious about competing, I'd do a little write up of each event you enter. I'd include the judges impressions, areas of suggested improvement, and what you plan to do to get there.
Damn this stuff is a ton of work! This SQ thing is hard.
The DXE is not cheap guys...
Adam
Some techniques to consider before EQing:
-Drivers
-Driver enclosure volume
-Driver mounting angle, and location
-Driver baffle material and thickness
-Enclosure shape (interior wall proximity to driver)
-Interior enclosure dampening(would include materials adhered to enclosure walls and stuffing material)
-Near field relflective surface dampening.(this would include dash underside padding or the covering/removal of reflective surfaces in general)
-Far field relflective surface dampening(namely the roof)
-Panel resonance dampening (namely doors, and rear seat/trunk area. But, roofs have been known to benifit from this)
-Cross over frequency and slope
-Individual level setting of each driver (Gains)
AFTER optimizing all of the above, try to pick just ONE area that you feel needs to be improved. Pick only one frequency, and play with that in small increments for a week. Here's the key, USE A LOG BOOK. Write down your settings, how it sounds, and other general impressions. Keep a diary of what you are doing on the car. It helps to chart trends, and your over all progress. If you are serious about competing, I'd do a little write up of each event you enter. I'd include the judges impressions, areas of suggested improvement, and what you plan to do to get there.
Damn this stuff is a ton of work! This SQ thing is hard.
The DXE is not cheap guys...
Adam