Originally Posted by pionkej
(Post 647618)
I.....and that you were blindly telling people Hertz made the best speakers ever in some threads while asking if the ML1600 is really better than the ML165 (because of Manu. rated power handling). That is what I remember.
Prior to owning (well, prior to powering them up) my ML1600's, I found it hard to believe that they were any better than my ML165's as ELETTROMEDIA SPECIFICALLY STATE THAT THE ML165 FEATURES BETTER LOW END MIDBASS ATTACK, compared to the ML1600 and the LOW END IS WHAT I WAS CONCERNED ABOUT, but only due to their on-paper power rating and physical size. Would it be better if I didn't currently own an entire system based on the best drivers that Hertz currently offers ? SOUR GRAPES ? Well, I'm not sorry that I enjoy nice things and frankly if I have to go out and buy DRIVERS from Parts-Express and configure them 'smartly' just to get your respect, then I really could care less. I am not going to appologize anymore...... |
So.. I hear Allan74 doesn't like 12" Subs.
xD |
Originally Posted by Allan74
(Post 647656)
Jesus Christ, get over yourself already.
Prior to owning (well, prior to powering them up) my ML1600's, I found it hard to believe that they were any better than my ML165's as ELETTROMEDIA SPECIFICALLY STATE THAT THE ML165 FEATURES BETTER LOW END MIDBASS ATTACK, compared to the ML1600 and the LOW END IS WHAT I WAS CONCERNED ABOUT, but only due to their on-paper power rating and physical size. Would it be better if I didn't currently own an entire system based on the best drivers that Hertz currently offers ? SOUR GRAPES ? Well, I'm not sorry that I enjoy nice things and frankly if I have to go out and buy DRIVERS from Parts-Express and configure them 'smartly' just to get your respect, then I really could care less. I am not going to appologize anymore...... At the same time, you posted your own thread asking if you made a mistake getting the ML1600 because the ML165 had better power handling per the manufacturers recommended wattage and FELT/LOOKED stouter. BUT, none of that matters since I knew that you would choose to only respond to the above post and conveniently skipped right over my technical post about how you are WRONG like it never happened. I will GLADLY leave the entire above topic alone if you will even ATTEMPT to prove me wrong about subs, power, and "SQ". You have NO IDEA what you are talking about, and instead of defending it with reason, you resort to picking apart everyone's posts and finding ways to personally attack them. Your responses are the equivalent of me asking what the square root of 9 is, and you replying by telling me I smell bad. Seriously, grow some balls and defend your point of how you need no more than a 10" sub since you ONLY have 650w of power on tap. Finally, I never said a damn thing about you not being able to enjoy nice things or being wrong for doing so. I never said a word about Parts Express and a need to get DIY drivers. I never brought up how much nice equipment I'VE owned (since it didn't seem to be relevant to the conversation) or how I'VE "been doing this for 5 years" (since it would be insulting to you that you have been in the hobby 4 times longer than I have and seem to only know 1/4 of what I do). But seriously, if you want to stoop to 3rd grade levels of insults instead of being a man and either defending your logic or admitting your wrong...I'm ready...it's actually what I've come to expect from you anyway. |
it kind of seems like hes started this thread not for suggestions of which woofer to pick but to show off the fact that hes buying a new driver and has all this expensive equipment. So far all ive read are a bunch of great suggestions and yet no progress has been made except now we all now that he hates 12" woofers, parts express and SPL competitions. My suggestion is go buy the most expensive sub you can, tell everyone about it, then wire it up and go listen to it in your car by yourself cuz you clearly have a hard time cooperating with others.
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Originally Posted by pionkej
(Post 647671)
....so show me where they stated the ML165 had better midbass attack..
I'd be more than happy to provide more if you so desire. http://www.mybnr32.com/car_audio/ml165/ml165_low.jpg Enjoy. |
Originally Posted by Allan74
(Post 647655)
I'll buy a half dozen Audiovox 18's and 30,000w of Pyle power
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Originally Posted by pionkej
(Post 647636)
Cliff notes of the "novel" I wrote. :)
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This guy obviously equates price and badge as quality. That's all right, most noobs go through the same path. Almost there.
-Start off with cheeper stuff -get better stuff -find out about expensive brands most people don't know about and most of your knowledge becomes the propaganda and marketing material supplied by said companies. -realize that the difference between most products are pretty small and you can get cheep in price generic stuff that will usually outperform expensive stuff will lots of marketing behind it. Of course the last step doesn't stop one from buying expensive rare stuff. Most people still buy stuff "just cuz". And uniqueness is also a valid criteria. |
Originally Posted by pionkej
(Post 647640)
May I ask why if space where no issue? The only potential problem (other than box size) is larger group delay which can be compensated for at the crossover point using time alignment.
Guys - I think we're getting off topic. The OP wanted to know about some 8" woofer options. Personally I like 8s and the challenge they represent. He appears to realize that he will be giving up some performance from using a 10 or even 12 in the same-ish space but is ok with it. It can be gratifying to see people's reaction when they see what you run for a woofer. |
Originally Posted by Dukk
(Post 647700)
Excursion.
Originally Posted by Dukk
(Post 647700)
Guys - I think we're getting off topic. The OP wanted to know about some 8" woofer options. Personally I like 8s and the challenge they represent. He appears to realize that he will be giving up some performance from using a 10 or even 12 in the same-ish space but is ok with it. It can be gratifying to see people's reaction when they see what you run for a woofer.
Dukk-the OP mentioned horn-loading the sub, don't you think if he knew what he was talking about, he would realize he probably only needs 100w or less to power a 8" sub used in a t-line and not the 650w he has? |
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