If you actually understood the physics involved you wouldn't be making that statement, so where do we go from here? Let's try it like this ...
1) "smaller object will move faster then a larger object" :confused:
This is entirely false, how fast an object moves is not a function of it's size. It is a function of the forces that are acting on the object.
2) "a smaller sub has less air to push" :thumbsdow
That is not necessarily the case, the amount of air being pushed (which is actually a terrible way to phrase it) has as much to do with the excursion of the sub as it has to do with the cone area. Remember that at the end of the day the sub isn't just pushing air around, it is producing sound waves.
3) "thus increasing response speed" :dunno:
Even if the rest of what you said was correct, this is still some sort of leap of faith. I can only assume that the sub is "responding" to the electrical current flowing through it (if it is responding to something else, please let me know) Electrical current flows at 1 speed, and that doesn't change ... it is a constant (at least in the world of physics). So if x amount of current flows through the voice coil, the speaker will move y distance from it's zero energy position. While it certainly is true that the distance y will vary from one speaker to another, that variance is not simply because of the size of the speaker. 10 different 8" subs will all move a different distance given the same applied current. You don't have to go to another size to find variance.

.oO(am I just feeding the troll?)

you win I am done

this says it best.

:laugh:

Proof?

The box is everything. It will make or break your sound.

You must do some real world testing and listening evaluation before you comment on things, it would appear, you know little about

turn down the gain? as mentioned earlier the way your sub sounds mostly in the box. you may prefer the sound of a sealed set up which can sound a little "punchier" and "quicker" but at the cost of spl. adjust your crossover to your liking. (for sq i like ~60 hz at a 24db slope.) and then just adjust the gain on the amp so that your subs output is to your liking (not hurting your ears).

all the good subs where mentioned. fi q, jl w6, etc..

Thanks for the recommendations!

I will be trying 60 hz at 24 db slope.

I am currently using a 10'' W7 in a vented box. The amp pushing it is a alpine m1000 mrp. In the trunk of a mazda 3 sedan.

Does the location of the sub in the car also matter? Also the sounds acoustics are essential i bet. And probably the ''quality'' of the amp.

the w7 is a great sub. ive got a fathom f113 which is one of jl's home theater subs running the 13.5 inch w7 and i absolutely love it.

if the ported box you have is a prefab then chances are the tuning and internal volume of the box are waaay off. so your great w7 will not sound so great >_<

i personaly would build a sealed enclosure for it with a slanted back so you can have it lie flush against the back of your rear seats in your trunk. build the box with about 1.25 ft^3 of internal volume and use 3/4 inch mdf with a bit of internal bracing (a couple 1 inch dowels will work good). set up like this the sub will be pointing at the rear of the car which will allow for your sub to load off of the back of the car and bounce into the cab through the rear seats. you'll get to keep lots of trunk space too because sealed boxes are smaller then ported. :D you'll have yourself an SQ machine that will sound fantastic.

the amp is perfectly fine for that sub so long as you dont drive it into clipping.

I didn't think subs mattered to SQ guys ... it was more about other factors inside the car.
SQ guys can make a 300watt sub from a fleamarket work, I'm sure.