hey all. i read a statement on another site, that said when you want to run 2 amplifiers on your stock electrical system then..

"the total sum of the fuses on your amps should not add up to more than half of your battery's cold cranking amps, and could be up to 4 times your alternator's output."

would you guys believe this to be true? my monoblock has 3x25amp fuses, my amp for my fronts has 2x30. my stock alt is 80amp, my battery has 750-800cca. (motomaster eliminator spiral cell deep cycle)

thanks!

 

I have never heard that line before, maybe one of these guys have but in my opinion best to get a bigger alt cause your going to be putting stress on it. cause no matter what your alt still has to keep the battery in check.

 

yeah true that.. worst case i'll just have to go without amping my fronts until next year when an HO alternator is in the budget. they're sooo expensive, those Iragi's or whatever are like over $300 on ebay

anyone else have an opinion? i know, 2 amps off my stock alternator probably just isn't going to happen.. figured i'd ask anyway, wishful thinking i guess heh.

thanks for the reply!

 

What I would suggest, and most people will disagree possibly!!!! capacitor, get a nice 2 farad cap, and run it with a distribution block and walla your set. I run 3 amps and a cross over off my stock battery and altenator and nothing in my car fades, and they stay at a consistant 13.9~14.3 depending on volumne of course. But thats just my two cents worth.

 

I think that came from the may edition of ca&e. As far as helping your electrical system on a budget, can't beat the big 3...speaking of which I should get around to doing mine rather than just telling everyone else to do it...

 

Heya Kev.

Your alternator should be able to handle the two amplifiers, okay. Not great, not poorly, but just okay. Providing, of course, that the rest of the electrical is up to snuff.

My advice that I like to tell most people, is for daily driveability purposes. SPL competitors may not like the caps or rear battery (rear battery takes you right out of some of the divisions). But for daily driving, even at "full tilt" most of the time, it goes like this:

a) Do the big 3, it's A#1 in priority.
b) Install a capacitor, 2 or 3f if ya can afford it, but even a 1 will help.
c) Install good batteries, one in the front, one in the rear.
d) If possible, a smaller pulley on your alternator. You may need to change the belt along with it, and you may not be able to do it at all, depending on vehicle.

Using my van as an example, I've got five amps total, pushing roughly 2Kw daily (my Orions are running at 2 ohms daily, I'll bridge 'em to 1 for SPL comps), that the fuse total is 325. I run an Orbital up front, and two more in the back (three batteries total). I have just a 1f capacitor. I did the Big 3 long ago of course. And up until just a month ago, I was running the stock 105 amp alternator with a small pulley.

The 105 did fine in my van, until I added that second Orion amp about six months ago. Then I could tell that it wasn't keeping up. By working the system really hard, voltage would drop below 13, even driving at 100 km's an hour. Work the system really hard during a work day, and check powered down voltage on my rear batteries, and it was down at 12.4, quite discharged.

So, my alternator wasn't dead yet, but I was worried about wreckin' things since I worked it too hard all the time. Being not exactly rich at the moment, I just grabbed a 140 amp Delco alternator off my shelf (for those that don't know, I'm a battery, starter, alternator (stock stuff, no custom) supplier) and bolted her in. No retrofit required, other than changing the regulator plug. I transfered my small pulley onto the new one too. Had I been a retail customer getting the job done here, I probably would have walked outta here for around $250.

Wow. I mean WOW. I didn't expect a huge difference, as it was just 35 more available amps, but WOW. I can't make my voltage drop below 13.8 anymore, no matter how loud or what type of music or tones it's playing. The rear batteries are never discharged while driving anymore, reading 12.9v hot (vehicle off). The bass sounds better too, you can hear the difference.

So, if I wanted to switch my amps to 1 ohm, which would put me around 3Kw total, I'd be back where I was I'm sure, looking for more alternator power. But the 140 was/is exactly what I needed for now. Maybe I'll get something bigger when I'm feeling rich again, but the 140 is good enough for now.

So what am I saying? Don't bother blowing big $$$ on a custom alternator, just try to find a bigger one that you can retrofit in. The 140amp one I used is available in many different configurations, and will work in a lotta different vehicles, with minor retrofitting. What kinda vehicle are we talking about again?

 

the vehicle is a '94 Cavalier, 2.2L... same engine from 94 through to 97, they changed to the 2200 in '98. so, any ideas what might fit a '94-97 GM 2.2L 4cyl engine?

yeah the big 3 most definately has to be done before i put the amp in. there are some how-to's around the net i just have to dig them up again

what you said about changing a plug Grizzz, is that the plug that plugs into the alternator from the car? kinda wish some of you fellas lived closer to me, i'd drop my car off and pay someone to look at my voltage situation and help me out

thanks for the replies guys! wish i knew if there was a bigger alternator that would fit my engine, without buying a $380 Iragi from eBay... woudl be a huge waste of money if i decide to swap in a 3.4L V6 sometime down the road

thanks again fellas!

 

Hey

I replaced the stock alternator in a '96 a couple years ago, went to Westroc and had a 150A unit put together for about $180 after taxes. All stock components were used and it just dropped right in, no plug adapter. Don't know what it's worth now.

Good luck, J

 

cool, Westroc eh? is that a shop? 150a would be nice, wonder what something like that would be worth these days.. thanks for the info, gonna search

*edit*

http://www.westrock.ca/ <=== would this be them? i sent them an email anyway, to ask if they have something to fit my car

 

Ya, changing the plug on the van was easy, it's a one wire regulator. So I cut the old one, soldered on the new one, and that was it. Took me all of two minutes.

Your car is a changeover year car, J bodies went to a newer style in '95. So you have the '95's engine with a '93 style alternator. So there are many alternator options for you, all reasonably priced.

On your car, yes, you have an 80 amp alternator. There is a 105 amp alternator that is far more common, and will bolt right in, no alterations at all. Is cheap too, and so common any auto-electric store will have one. You can even bolt on a '95 style 105 amp for maybe an extra 20 bucks... But you'd have to change that plug

The larger 140 amp body alternators would take some minor retrofitting, but should also be pretty easy to get in there. And they use the same plug as your car, so ya wouldn't have to change the plug

If I was in your shoes, I'd just get that direct fit 105 amp and enjoy. You won't surpass it's ability for a while, especially if when you're at your local auto-electric shop, you ask them for a smaller pulley (the pulley can make a HUGE difference) and then you can concentrate & spend your money on getting the Big 3 and the rest of the stuff done.