Basic Stereo Buying Advice Required
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0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 7
So - just upgrading the door speakers and the deck. What's involved with that - are there any modifications required to the current stereo - presumably yes? Does the unit get a USB input? Please excuse my ignorance. If i don't put an amp in, will that lessen the potential of the new speakers? I understand it's all related. (I'm a systems consultant so i understand techy stuff).
The system should basically drop into place. No major modifications necessary. The deck does indeed have a usb input that is a wire from the rear of the deck. (no usb device to bash off and damage the front panel that way). The wire is long enough to reach most spots like a glove box or in your case the install kit has a pocket in it that we quite often drill a hole in to pass the USB cable through. The speakers will only put out what you give them. While they will sound nice, power is what makes them behave, especially for bass response. As I said though, take it a step at a time. Add the amp if you think you need it or if you can afford it now. Down the road it is a great addition that will bring the speakers to life and deliver the performance that they were intended to deliver.
The component speakers in general (front speakers separate woofer and tweeter) are generally inefficient vs. your standard 2 or 3 way coax speaker. This means it takes more power to get them playing to the same volume level. Thus power is always a good idea for a component speaker.
The component speakers in general (front speakers separate woofer and tweeter) are generally inefficient vs. your standard 2 or 3 way coax speaker. This means it takes more power to get them playing to the same volume level. Thus power is always a good idea for a component speaker.
Thread Starter
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 7
The system should basically drop into place. No major modifications necessary. The deck does indeed have a usb input that is a wire from the rear of the deck. (no usb device to bash off and damage the front panel that way). The wire is long enough to reach most spots like a glove box or in your case the install kit has a pocket in it that we quite often drill a hole in to pass the USB cable through. The speakers will only put out what you give them. While they will sound nice, power is what makes them behave, especially for bass response. As I said though, take it a step at a time. Add the amp if you think you need it or if you can afford it now. Down the road it is a great addition that will bring the speakers to life and deliver the performance that they were intended to deliver.
The component speakers in general (front speakers separate woofer and tweeter) are generally inefficient vs. your standard 2 or 3 way coax speaker. This means it takes more power to get them playing to the same volume level. Thus power is always a good idea for a component speaker.
The component speakers in general (front speakers separate woofer and tweeter) are generally inefficient vs. your standard 2 or 3 way coax speaker. This means it takes more power to get them playing to the same volume level. Thus power is always a good idea for a component speaker.
Give me a couple of quotes if you would: for amp and non-amp.
Please include the tax (i'm Scottish and still forget you guys tax separately here).
As for the unit specs: send me three quotes, with a budget of $800 max for everything (excl shipping and installation).
I'm heading for bed - you should do the same mate
Stuabroad
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