battery died?
09-23-2003, 10:29 PM
#1
I had my car running for an hour or so with the stereo going sometimes to full power
the volt meter on dash slowly got lower then car stalled, had to get a boost
could a 600watt rms + 150watt rms amps and heater be too much?
I have a 130 amp alternator and brand new batter
the volt meter on dash slowly got lower then car stalled, had to get a boost
could a 600watt rms + 150watt rms amps and heater be too much?
I have a 130 amp alternator and brand new batter
09-24-2003, 12:34 AM
#4
2000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,142
If you have both those amps plus the heater running non stop for an hour I would say that might be enough to drain the batt. I have an 800 watt amp and have never had a prob, but I only have the one amp and I never run it too long and not with other accessories going!
09-24-2003, 01:19 AM
#5
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 909
There is no way that this should have happened if the car was running. I am running a 1600W amp, stock battery and stock alt in a Dodge Neon and could leave every accessory running and music at full tilt. Sounds like you have a defective alt, battery, or you have a wiring problem somewhere.
If you ran a test tone at full tilt for an hour I you might drain the battery some but with music there is enough breaks between bass hit to keep the battery well charged.
If you ran a test tone at full tilt for an hour I you might drain the battery some but with music there is enough breaks between bass hit to keep the battery well charged.
09-24-2003, 02:14 AM
#6
Check for a bad/corroded connection. Your electrical system is strong enough to handle the amperage draw but not through a bad contact.
Also get a load test done to check that you haven't recieved a faulty alt/batt.
Canadian Tire will do this for free for you.
Also get a load test done to check that you haven't recieved a faulty alt/batt.
Canadian Tire will do this for free for you.
09-24-2003, 05:55 AM
#7
I would say defective alt. And I've also heard of bad new batteries. Usually ones with crappy warranties.
I have a 1200W and 120W amp running, and only a 600CCA batt with a 120 amp alternator. After 2/3 of total output, my volt meter starts sagging from 14-12V. It never shuts my car off.
[ September 24, 2003, 07:02 AM: Message edited by: Chadxton ]
I have a 1200W and 120W amp running, and only a 600CCA batt with a 120 amp alternator. After 2/3 of total output, my volt meter starts sagging from 14-12V. It never shuts my car off.
[ September 24, 2003, 07:02 AM: Message edited by: Chadxton ]
09-24-2003, 10:17 AM
#8
ok today I ended up getting a slightly less powerful alternator (105 amps) instead of the 130 from the place that sold me the 130A. They will do whatever they do to misbehaving alternators and in the mean time use the current one which doesn't seem to be letting the car drop in voltage. Maybe the big alt just wore out very quickly from being set to produce 130A. Hopefuly 105A will get me by.
09-25-2003, 07:34 PM
#9
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 16
Most likely this is what happened:
Alternators do not just produce their rated power all the time. Temp and RPMs all make a difference. Running at idle a 130 amp alternator usually puts out about half of its rating. Also the longer it runs with out the car moving (read no cooling airflow) the hotter its going to get. Say by the end of an hour you were getting 50 amps to the batt. FUBAR. Car dies, your lucky you didn`t toast the amp.
Alternators do not just produce their rated power all the time. Temp and RPMs all make a difference. Running at idle a 130 amp alternator usually puts out about half of its rating. Also the longer it runs with out the car moving (read no cooling airflow) the hotter its going to get. Say by the end of an hour you were getting 50 amps to the batt. FUBAR. Car dies, your lucky you didn`t toast the amp.
