Battery Relocation Questions..
Battery Relocation Questions..
I'm relocating the battery in my car from the back to the front.. (fiero, it's *** backwards).. Anyways, I'm wondering about fusing. I've talked to several people who have said not to run a fuse because if it blows, the car is basically stranded if I do not have a spare. I really don't like the idea of running a 0g power wire with no protection. I'm thinking about running a circuit breaker instead. Just wondering what kind of current a starter draws so I can pick an appropriate circuit breaker.
My amps are fused for about 300a total, so I will need a pretty high amp circuit breaker to begin with. Just wondering what would be a safe size that won't trip every time I start the car?
My amps are fused for about 300a total, so I will need a pretty high amp circuit breaker to begin with. Just wondering what would be a safe size that won't trip every time I start the car?
Originally Posted by 2loud4u
dont use a circuit breaker use a good water proof anl fuse holder with a 300 amp fuse.
Also, it doesn't need to be sealed, the battery is in the front compartment, which is already sealed from the elements.
yes 300 amp fuse will be fine you . the size of the fuse depends on the size of wire. It will not harm anything.
It is there just to protect the wire from shorts and will blow just as easy as a smaller fuse if a short occurs.
2 Good reasons why not to use a circuit breaker
1) If you are blowing fuses, you have a problem somewhere that needs to be addressed.
2) Every time you trip the breaker, either manually or in the case of an overcurrent, you reduce the reliability of the breaker. The contacts in the breaker arc every time the breaker is tripped and the arcing causes pitting in the contact and they can also possibly weld themselves shut. The underhood fuse is there to protect your car in the case of a power wire short. Replacing a fuse that shold only blow in an emergency for the convenience of a switch that doesn't provide as reliable of protection seems a bit dumb to me. How often do you need to disconnect power to the system that loosening a screw and disconnecting the negative wire from the battery (the way you should do it BTW) save you that much time? I have NEVER blown a fuse in a car audio system. If you are careful in your install and use quality components that you don't abuse, you should never have to worry about blowing them routinely. I have never heard of a fuse failing to blow when it should have and in a wreck that is last thing I want to have to worry about.
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It is there just to protect the wire from shorts and will blow just as easy as a smaller fuse if a short occurs.
2 Good reasons why not to use a circuit breaker
1) If you are blowing fuses, you have a problem somewhere that needs to be addressed.
2) Every time you trip the breaker, either manually or in the case of an overcurrent, you reduce the reliability of the breaker. The contacts in the breaker arc every time the breaker is tripped and the arcing causes pitting in the contact and they can also possibly weld themselves shut. The underhood fuse is there to protect your car in the case of a power wire short. Replacing a fuse that shold only blow in an emergency for the convenience of a switch that doesn't provide as reliable of protection seems a bit dumb to me. How often do you need to disconnect power to the system that loosening a screw and disconnecting the negative wire from the battery (the way you should do it BTW) save you that much time? I have NEVER blown a fuse in a car audio system. If you are careful in your install and use quality components that you don't abuse, you should never have to worry about blowing them routinely. I have never heard of a fuse failing to blow when it should have and in a wreck that is last thing I want to have to worry about.
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Originally Posted by 2loud4u
yes 300 amp fuse will be fine you . the size of the fuse depends on the size of wire. It will not harm anything.
It is there just to protect the wire from shorts and will blow just as easy as a smaller fuse if a short occurs.
2 Good reasons why not to use a circuit breaker
1) If you are blowing fuses, you have a problem somewhere that needs to be addressed.
2) Every time you trip the breaker, either manually or in the case of an overcurrent, you reduce the reliability of the breaker. The contacts in the breaker arc every time the breaker is tripped and the arcing causes pitting in the contact and they can also possibly weld themselves shut. The underhood fuse is there to protect your car in the case of a power wire short. Replacing a fuse that shold only blow in an emergency for the convenience of a switch that doesn't provide as reliable of protection seems a bit dumb to me. How often do you need to disconnect power to the system that loosening a screw and disconnecting the negative wire from the battery (the way you should do it BTW) save you that much time? I have NEVER blown a fuse in a car audio system. If you are careful in your install and use quality components that you don't abuse, you should never have to worry about blowing them routinely. I have never heard of a fuse failing to blow when it should have and in a wreck that is last thing I want to have to worry about.
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It is there just to protect the wire from shorts and will blow just as easy as a smaller fuse if a short occurs.
2 Good reasons why not to use a circuit breaker
1) If you are blowing fuses, you have a problem somewhere that needs to be addressed.
2) Every time you trip the breaker, either manually or in the case of an overcurrent, you reduce the reliability of the breaker. The contacts in the breaker arc every time the breaker is tripped and the arcing causes pitting in the contact and they can also possibly weld themselves shut. The underhood fuse is there to protect your car in the case of a power wire short. Replacing a fuse that shold only blow in an emergency for the convenience of a switch that doesn't provide as reliable of protection seems a bit dumb to me. How often do you need to disconnect power to the system that loosening a screw and disconnecting the negative wire from the battery (the way you should do it BTW) save you that much time? I have NEVER blown a fuse in a car audio system. If you are careful in your install and use quality components that you don't abuse, you should never have to worry about blowing them routinely. I have never heard of a fuse failing to blow when it should have and in a wreck that is last thing I want to have to worry about.
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dont worrie about the starter it will draw alot of power to begin with.
look at you battery for example. it is rated in amps. say you car needs a battery with a rating of say 550amps. that means that you starter will be drawing around 250-300 amps.
Again the size of the fuse will not cause you starter to draw more power then needed it is just there to protect the wire not restrict amperage or allow more then needed.
look at you battery for example. it is rated in amps. say you car needs a battery with a rating of say 550amps. that means that you starter will be drawing around 250-300 amps.
Again the size of the fuse will not cause you starter to draw more power then needed it is just there to protect the wire not restrict amperage or allow more then needed.
Originally Posted by 2loud4u
Here lets put it this way.
I have a 1971 dodge demon with over 700hp and my battery is in the trunk and I am running 1/0 gage wire and a 300 amp fuse.
So if I cant blow the fuse you will never have to worry.
I have a 1971 dodge demon with over 700hp and my battery is in the trunk and I am running 1/0 gage wire and a 300 amp fuse.
So if I cant blow the fuse you will never have to worry.


