That is a good price considering what your application is!

re-think about it!

 

Very good decision on going with the 0 gauge. I can't count the number of times using all my fingers and toes that I have seen people go to all the trouble and work of doing these upgrades, only to find out that they want to upgrade their systems a short time later, then having to do the whole affair over again. Car audio can be very addictive and the cost difference between the two wire sizes is not very much, so why not just cover all the future bases now? Trust me, you will want to upgrade your system later on, at least this way you will have that part of the upgrade complete.

 

140A is peak, check the idle output when buying an alt. Cheaper alts put out high peak, but the idle is pure crap. A better alt will have nice idle output as well, but will cost a little more. For example the cheaper alt will have 80A at idle and 180A peak, for maybe around $100 more you may get something like 120A at idle and 180A peak. Higher idle output is more important IMO.

140A for $325 better be the one with high idle output.

 

I've contacted the company to request info on the idle/peak amperage of that alternator, we'll see what they say.

I also tried googling for "high output alternator hyundai accent" but the only thing I found were stock amperaged one 75A-90A. Where else could I look for an alternator for this car?

 

where ever you go it's not going to be cheap, Sasha is right you really have to watch the idle amperage cause if it's to low it probably won't even charge your battery at idle! So in other words you would only really have a high output alternator when your going 120 down the highway. Spend the extra money and do it right the first time.

 

Idle output is about 55-60% of the peak output. That gives me a whopping 3-9A more then stock at idle. What a bargain at 325$. Thanks sasha for saving me that money

 

No problem, check with Dominick from IRAGGI alts in the USA. He has two lines of alts. "Amputator" Series is what you want.

 

I have a 80amp alternator, running 1600rms, get a good battery and run 0ga runs of positive and negative to your amps

 

he's running 500rms.
do the BIG 3 in 4 gauge
run 4 gauge wiring thru-out your car and if you want get a cap (i dont think its worth it but its your choice)
I can garentee less headlight dimming and better output of your amp.

 

Dual alternator's FTW
If your system is drawing more than your alternators idle output then your slowly destroying the alternator. Then one day your at a stop light, theres some smoking chick in a car beside you, you throw in a cd expecting your bass to kick in but what happens is on that first bass note the whole car dies and she drives away laughing

OK maybe I wen a bit overboard on the story but you get the point.
Find out how many amps you system is drawing and make sure the alt. has an idle output equal or greater