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The big three

Old May 19, 2008 | 02:57 AM
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The big three

i been hearing a lot what really is the big three changeing ur alt, batt, new ground wires from engine, batt to body of car, do you need to run a new ground for batt too?


so what really is "the big three"
Old May 19, 2008 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by rev
i been hearing a lot what really is the big three changeing ur alt, batt, new ground wires from engine, batt to body of car, do you need to run a new ground for batt too?


so what really is "the big three"
1-Battery To Alt +
2-Battery to Chassis -
3-Chassis to body -
Old May 19, 2008 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by MTT
1-Battery To Alt +
2-Battery to Chassis -
3-Chassis to body -
Actually number 2 should be "BATT TO ENGINE -"
and number 3 is "BATT TO BODY -"

Chassis to body makes no sense unless you have a truck or your car is 30 years old.
Old May 19, 2008 | 11:35 AM
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I go batt to frame, frame to alt, alt to batt and common mountings.
Old May 19, 2008 | 11:45 AM
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i did 0g wire
alt to battery +
bass of alt to frame -
frame to battery -
Old May 19, 2008 | 01:43 PM
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alternator is attached to the engine by way of a large metal bracket. A positive wire runs to your battery from the alternator, and your battery is grounded via a cable to the chassis of the vehicle, as is the engine. What you want to do is; enlarge the wires doing the same thing as the oem ones do. You can just add additional 0 awg wires to the three areas. wire from alternator to battery, engine to chassis, and battery ground to chassis. That's the big three. Additionally, many have found it beneficial to run a large ground cable directly to the battery from your amp's grounding spot. I've done this as well, and realized a reduction in dimming lights as compared to without it. Theoretically, it really should not have made a difference, but as some have pointed out in other posts and texts, the modern automobile has a lot more insulation and non-conductive fillers, epoxies, insulators, etc... that may reduce the chassis's ability to conduct electricity as efficintly as previous models.

Last edited by veeman; May 19, 2008 at 01:47 PM.
Old May 19, 2008 | 02:20 PM
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yeah what he said, i just copied what my car already had with bigger better wire, batt to body, engine to body, batt to alt.
Old May 19, 2008 | 03:17 PM
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would it best to put a voltage stabilizer on the batt? like this one

eBay Motors: UNIVERSAL JDM BATTERY VOLTAGE STABILIZER + GROUND WIRE (item 190222513218 end time May-19-08 20:19:43 PDT)
Old May 19, 2008 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by rev
Sure if your not pulling over 10amps.That is a real real cheap ignition voltage stabilizer.Ignitions don`t take a hell of a lot of juice till you get in to running something like me for the race track.If you want a stabilizer then only go with a accuvolt.They come in 25,50 and 100amp sizes.They are the only of there kind and only ones that do any good amps thru them.I used my 50amp one on a DD SS1 and had no problem as I ran the amp at 15volts so it would never pull its max 65amps@14v it was rated at.
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