can anyone out there give me some dimensions for a 10" and 12" ported sub box? (how to build it) plus what materials I need (what type of wood) asap please? [img]graemlins/@bow.gif[/img]

 

yes.. but need to know the sub(s).. what dimesions you have to work with..??

 

To do this you should have a drill, drill bit (1/8" is what I would normally use) I personally prefer to use a drill bit with built in counter-sink (these go for $10-$15 and are worth the money).

Materials:

Sheet of 3/4" MDF - $30
Bottle of wood glue - $5
Package of screws - $3
Silicone - $3

If you are going to spray the port, I'd either use truck liner spray ($10 I think) or use primer and spray paint (not sure on price).

If you are carpeting it..

Carpet - $5-$15 per yard (most boxes will take 2-3 yards)
Carpet Adhesive - $5-$15 per can

 

Alright thanx, when I get the sub (haven't decided yet) I'll letcha know. So far its between PG & JL.

Also can you make a box outta Plywood? What do u use for the port any material or is it just a hole?? [img]graemlins/@bow.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]

 

Always use 3/4" mdf for the wood.. particle board is flimsy, if i have heard of boxes made out of it just breaking and blowing up so to speak [img]smile.gif[/img]

for the port.. you can either buy aero ports to use, PVC or just make a slot port out of the wood.. but it cant just be a hole.. it has to be matched for the sub enclosure, it has to be a certain size and certain length..

 

As far as screws go, get the green decking screws from Home Depot. You'll have to drill pilot holes for them so that the MDF doesn't split, but they are nice and aggressive and come in a bunch of lengths to suite your needs.

Table saw is handy to have but you CAN actually build the whole box with a jig saw. The trick is to have two clamps and a straight edge to use as a guide for the jig saw. Clamp down the straight edge and run the jig saw against it to cut a nice straight line [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]

Silicone all your inside corners and your port. Let the silicone dry and vent before installing the sub.

Pilot hole all your screw holes for the sub so you don't "stick" the drill through the surround after you slip off the screw head. I've actually had the pleasure of doing this and after working hard to build a nice box you f#$! it up by pooching the sub surround, you feel less then spectacular. Also, you can keep your hand close to the drill bit and protecting the surround. Hand will heal for free under most circumstances

If you don't want to carpet the box, sand down all the edges, fill in any gaps and then spray her down with rocker guard


MOST IMPORTANTLY, wear safety glasses when cutting anything. You only have one set of eyes.

 

What I do for ports is go to construction sites. They always have pieces of 2", 3", or 4" pieces of PVC or ABS lying around. Typically, pieces of pipe shorter than 12" are useless at the contrustion site and are bound for the dumpster, but are perfect for ports. Save a buck, save some trash from the landfill, and pick up a port from a construction site.

 

For u ppl in T.O. that have replied and that live near T.O. wherez are some good places to get car audio stuff? Im planning a trip up there soon its only 2 hours almost drive. [img]graemlins/headbang.gif[/img]

 

what are you looking for??

 

JL and Phoenix Gold, subwoofer & amps cheaper than I find them here. I have my eye set on the Phoenix Gold amp I found at Kawartha TV & Stereo here for $258 . And a 12" JL sub for $169 Then Im stuck trying to find a good box cheap.