cap and ditrabution block
01-21-2007, 11:11 PM
#3
Yeah, the BIG 3 is always the best (and cheapest) way to aid in power 'flow/upgrade' for your system. It should always be a start point for moderate + systems. If you think you 'require' a cap (do a search on opinions), it should be inline (ideally) with your sub amp, as it draws the most current. But installing it before the distro is ok as well. Happy listening.
01-21-2007, 11:36 PM
#4
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 217
i was running a .5 ferrad cap for 200 watts rms 400 max and lights still dimmed now ill be running 2 amps to power my new kicker L-5's 450 watts rms 900 max each soo i have a 1.0 ferrad cap and a .5 cap was thinking on running them inline before the splitter or buying a 5.0 cap just for kicks off ebay and i am thinking of a deep cycle batterie what do you think ?
01-23-2007, 11:53 AM
#8
Big 3 first - no questions. It's cheap, simple and it works. At the very least, upgrade all of your grounds (and/or add a few larger new ones).
As for an alternator, a HO alt would be nice, as it would provide all the power to the car and system and would probably last longer than a standard off the shelf rebuilt jobbie, although it will cost more. NOTE: if you install a HO alt without doing the Big 3, you'll be wasting some potential/time/effort, etc. It's like having a muscle car (re: big engine, hp, displacement) with 13" discount tires - you'll never get the full performance potential. I may be off a little here, but I think you're getting the idea.
OK. So we're looking at less than 10 ft. of 0/1 awg wire and terminals, a fuse or two and an hour or three. Pretty cheap. You should see results. Then I might consider a new deep cycle battery. The exide orbital (Canadian Tire) is popular and priced well. Or a yellow top. Do a search (I really looked into it; the boys on this board were very informative and this is what I came up with). This will give some reserve and lifespan. And they're much more resilient.
If you're still killing things or just want to go all in, then take a look at an HO alternator - one that fits your needs. Shop around (again, research well), as this will easily push the $300+ mark.
I hope this helps.
As for an alternator, a HO alt would be nice, as it would provide all the power to the car and system and would probably last longer than a standard off the shelf rebuilt jobbie, although it will cost more. NOTE: if you install a HO alt without doing the Big 3, you'll be wasting some potential/time/effort, etc. It's like having a muscle car (re: big engine, hp, displacement) with 13" discount tires - you'll never get the full performance potential. I may be off a little here, but I think you're getting the idea.
OK. So we're looking at less than 10 ft. of 0/1 awg wire and terminals, a fuse or two and an hour or three. Pretty cheap. You should see results. Then I might consider a new deep cycle battery. The exide orbital (Canadian Tire) is popular and priced well. Or a yellow top. Do a search (I really looked into it; the boys on this board were very informative and this is what I came up with). This will give some reserve and lifespan. And they're much more resilient.
If you're still killing things or just want to go all in, then take a look at an HO alternator - one that fits your needs. Shop around (again, research well), as this will easily push the $300+ mark.
I hope this helps.
02-01-2007, 02:04 PM
#10
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 50
I have a MRP-F450 and a MRP-M650. What do you reccomend either one 5 farad Stinger caps before the distributor or 2 3 farad Power Accoustiks right close to the amps after the distributor. My amps are at opposite sides of my trunk. Suggestions?
