So you're telling me if I change my 50Amp fuse to a higher ampere ANL fuse it'll help my amp operate more efficiently? Am I holding it back, in a way?

This is what I have right now, except the middle part is straight.


And we need the 125A version of this...



Duly noted.

Where would I find the spec on the amplifiers current draw? Current is amps, right? I mean, if the amp can't pull more than 100 amperes at any given moment, to create the signals sent to the speakers, then a 100 ampere fuse would suffice. The fuse article says that an amplifier can draw current more if it malfunctions, in that case the 100 amp fuse at the battery would blow.
The 125A is maximum for a 4 gauge wire. If this DLS says that its will only draw 80A to operate (guessing here), then I can't figure out why dropping in a larger fuse would improve anything.

If the amp drew more than 125A, then I'd have to go with a bigger gauge of wire, but not necessarily a larger fuse. Its there to protect the equipment/wiring.

I'm beating a dead horse here. lol

 

Sasha knows his bottom end, er, high end stuff I meant . Only probelem is you have to pay to play (good pun no?).

Lower fuses will never "hurt" you, just cost you money when they blow, but they will protect the equipment.

Blue LED's on the DLS? Might look ok, but I'm surprised Sasha is still talking to you . Seriously, they aren't for me, but I like looking at them. They steal miniscule amounts of power though.

Tragic, thats NOT my rack, but I am going to copy it. Dont know about your G/F car, but dont bury it (the amp...what were YOU thinking) so you cant get at the *****.

Set it and forget it? Yeah, sure.

Fuse=concentrate on what the wire is rated for. 4 awg is around 125 iirc.

I've said it before, go look online for battery / wire, red hot horror stories. The amount of juice in a car battery is to be highly respected. Nothing like a red hot, 15 foot piece of wire, as thick as your baby finger, currently (on a roll today ) setting your carpet on fire to ruin your day in a big way.

 

I will repeat again for the dead horse beaters. Use ANL 125A fuse on your 4awg wire. Do not use glass fuses. They are crap. Period. Your amp is perfectly safe with it's own built in fuses. 4awg wire is perfectly safe with 125A. Any smaller fuse will not offer better protection. Again, forget what DLS is pulling, we are talking about wire here, not amps. Can I get some support from the troops?

p.s. I want to talk about racks instead. And if you really want to use a smaller fuse, how about 100A, feel better?

 

If you are referring to me, I figured that out a few hundred posts ago. I agree 100% with ONE small little caveat: If he doesn't put an inline fuse in, approx. 18" or less from the batt on his main power wire ( YES, to protect the car) then a short COULD smoke the amp in a few milliseconds, no matter if the DLS has 10 fuses in it. I'm sure you know a shorted battery can easily dump out more amps than an arc welder.

John

 

I was referring to the dead horse beater, not you funny guy I just dont see all the fascination about the fuse size choice by the battery. I dont know how many posts it is taking me so far to say that his 4awg should have a 125A fuse, and dump that old glass piece of crap which probably deteriorated already and only use ANL.

Even if the inline fuse is not there, the short should not smoke the amp at all, cause the amp has its own fuses to blow so it wont fry. That 125A fuse is there so the wire does not flare up due to excessive heat along the underbelly of the car, and more of a second line of defense for the amp itself. I hope this clears up the confusion.

 

If what you're saying here is true, and you should not put a bigger fuse in the wire for the sake of the amp protection, then what would you do if you put a zero gauge power wire, and appropriate 300A fuse on it, do you think your amps would have no protection at all? If that were true, people would not be doing overkill on the electrical system including wiring. On the flip side of the coin, why would you even put in a zero gauge wire and protect it with a 100A fuse, this makes little sense.

 

Ahhh, I see.

I think you should mention to him that 4awg wire needs a 125 amp fuse.

In fact, I think he is risking everything by just handling the amp in the first place. Please convince him the amp is too dangerous for his G/F and should be disposed of by giving it to me. I will put it on a pedestal and sacrifice small animals to it every evening.

I would never sully the amp by hooking it up to power. That would be crass on my part.

I know you wouldn't want it because DLS is almost slumming for you. It probably doesn't meet your rather strict minimum criteria, although if the power supply is regulated, you MAY glance at it, just to get its hopes up, but after you put it back in the box, it would realize that all its hopes, all its dreams, had been crushed, and it would never grace the inside of Sasha's ride because it was born with inferior specifications. I suspect it would become despondent and would have to be carefully monitored lest the amplifier decided to terminate itself by bridging its internal power supply.

erm, regarding amp damage, I forget most of my physics, but doesn't electricity move pretty darn fast? In actual fact it is Dependant on many things including resistance. It doesn't even "flow" in the true sense, it sort of vibrates back and forth. Then we can calculate the coulombs in one square cubic centimeter of copper, etc, etc, but I would still like to see the amp survive a thousand amp spike from the main power cable ASSUMING the dead short was near the amp somewhere.

 

ROTFLMAO

Spikes will snap that inline fuse in an instant, and there is no way in hell the current will ever reach the amp, and if it does, amp fuses will blow. Amp is safe. If amp does not have built in fuses, then you may want to use the power wire fuse to protect it. No the case here, and not the case in most cases. If you want an amp that people blow, because it has no built in fuses, look into the king of all hype SQ line of amps offerings from Zuki Audio, and then we can start this conversation all over again, oh joy!!!!!

 

agree..the only time you'd need to address the main fuse's ratings with respect to the amplifier (and not just the main power wire) is if the amplifier had no fuse of it's own. Only then would you have to fuse according to the amplifier's need. In this case the DLS has it's own fuse(s) and as such, the only concern is to protect the main power wire from over current in the event of a short along it's length.

 

My position is weak.

I will not reverse myself, but I will concede the point that you are pretty much correct on the amp / power wire / melting issue. The amp SHOULD, repeat SHOULD be protected.

It was worth it though because now I can go research ZUKI which I never knew existed until 5 minutes ago

Every now and then you drop these little nuggets of information. Sometimes you slip them into the middle of a post, so one must pay attention to whats being said and read everything.

Cheers

John