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Old May 15, 2010 | 05:24 AM
  #11  
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Thought this might be helpful for the thread. This comes from the tutorials at the JLAudio site. They have the single voice coil also. There's also pics at the site.

Wiring your subs: Dual Voice Coils
With multi-driver sub systems, which often feature dual voice coils (DVC) on each driver, the level of wiring complexity can be enough to turn-off even the most adventurous of car audio do-it-yourselfers. Fear not though, for we have compiled wiring diagrams of several configurations for dual voice coil (DVC) drivers.

Please note that when wiring multiple drivers it is recommended that series connections between drivers be avoided at all costs. This does not include series connections made between voice coils on the same driver. For more information, please consult our dual voice coil tutorial.

Additionally, if you have an idea for a wiring configuration and you do not see it here, chances are you should re-think its implementation (in other words, don't do it). You will more than likely find that the results will be less than optimal.


1 DVC driver with Voice Coils in Series
Connecting the two voice coils of the driver in series (+ to -) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofer: 12 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 8 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 3 Ohms


1 DVC driver with Voice Coils in Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of the driver in parallel (+ to +, - to -) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofer: 3 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 1 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 0.75 Ohm


2 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Series / Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 6 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 1.5 Ohms


2 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Parallel / Parallel
Connecting the voice coils of each driver in parallel (+ to +, - to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 1.5 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofers: 1 Ohm
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofers: 0.5 Ohm
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 0.38 Ohms


3 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Series / Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 4 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofers: 2.67 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofers: 1.33 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 1 Ohm


3 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Parallel / Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in parallel (+ to +, - to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 1 Ohm
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofers: 0.67 Ohm
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofers: 0.33 Ohm
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 0.25 Ohm


4 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Series / Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 3 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofers: 2 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofers: 1 Ohm
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofers: 0.75 Ohm


4 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Parallel / Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in parallel (+ to +, - to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 0.75 Ohm
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofers: 0.5 Ohm
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofers: 0.25 Ohm
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 0.19 Ohm


5 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Series / Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 2.4 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofers: 1.6 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofers: 0.8 Ohm
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 0.6 Ohm
5 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Parallel / Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in parallel (+ to +, - to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 0.6 Ohm
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofers: 0.4 Ohm
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofers: 0.2 Ohm
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 0.15 Ohm

6 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Series / Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 2 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofers: 1.3 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofers: 0.7 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 0.5 Ohms
6 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Parallel / Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in parallel (+ to +, - to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofers: 0.5 Ohm
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofers: 0.33 Ohm
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofers: 0.167 Ohm
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 0.125 Ohm
Old May 15, 2010 | 08:58 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by ac_2007
Hey guys, I had my stereo done at BestBuy 2 years ago when I didn't know anything about car audio. Time has come to transfer them to my new car.

They are two 10-inch Alpine Type-R's with dual voice coils (2ohm+2ohm) coupled to a Alpine MRP M1000 Monoblock amp. The amp makes 1000w RMS @ 2ohms, so I want to make sure they're wired right.

I put them in my room and wired exactly how they were in the car to show you guys. I used the crutchfield diagrams and it doesn't look like its 2ohms (looks like 0.5)

How should I wire these for 2ohms?
Just so you know, if im not mistaken those jumpers can be attacked through the top of the terminals aswell
Old May 15, 2010 | 01:20 PM
  #13  
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Give me a budget to work with for the new amp please.
Old May 15, 2010 | 02:06 PM
  #14  
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You might be better off money wise finding an amp that runs at 0.5 ohms and then beefing up your wiring/power situation to support the increased amperage.
Old May 16, 2010 | 12:54 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by MR2NR
Give me a budget to work with for the new amp please.
I plan to spend around 400-500 max
Old May 16, 2010 | 12:57 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by bronson
Just so you know, if im not mistaken those jumpers can be attacked through the top of the terminals aswell
You're right, I forgot thats actually how they're supposed to be wired. Everythings back in the box.

I feel so ripped off..
The 10 inch type-r's cost around 250 each, and 12 inch type-x's are 239 online. Same thing with the amp. The 2000w version of my amp costs the same price online at sonicelectronix.com

The plan is to sell most of the components and buy new online. If I have to add a couple hundred, so be it. Any suggestions on whether or not running the door speakers off the Head-Unit would be a good idea?
Old May 16, 2010 | 01:14 PM
  #17  
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Your amp is over heating due to the fact that you have it wired down to 0.5ohm
Wire each sub up to 4ohm.
Leave the rest of the wiring as you have it.
Old May 16, 2010 | 07:58 PM
  #18  
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by ac_2007
You're right, I forgot thats actually how they're supposed to be wired. Everythings back in the box.

I feel so ripped off..
The 10 inch type-r's cost around 250 each, and 12 inch type-x's are 239 online. Same thing with the amp. The 2000w version of my amp costs the same price online at sonicelectronix.com

The plan is to sell most of the components and buy new online. If I have to add a couple hundred, so be it. Any suggestions on whether or not running the door speakers off the Head-Unit would be a good idea?
I would get the wiring issue sorted out before you decide you have been ripped and go out and spend more money. Once the subs are running properly then work on the rest of it.

Your comps will sound like poo running off the deck compared to the amp. If you are planning on adding more bass at some point you might as well leave the amp in there unless your goal for the system is a bass machine only......2kw of bass and it's going to take some sturdy mids and highs to keep up.......

HTH
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