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Enlarging a door speaker hole

Old Sep 14, 2008 | 10:25 PM
  #1  
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Enlarging a door speaker hole

My 97 Tercel has enough room in the doors to fit a 4.5" speaker into it . In the past I've used an MDF baffle to build it out a little bit so I could install a 5.25" component set. I want to go to a 6.5" comp set now, so I'll need to actually cut the sheet metal of the door.

Any suggestions? Jig saw with a metal blade is all I have, but that is painfully slow. What is the best method for opening up a door hole?

Thanks
Old Sep 15, 2008 | 12:38 AM
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Since I have to do the same thing if I cant get away with just making a MDF spacer, (6.5" in to 5"x7" opening) I will be using my Dremel with a carbide reamer/cutter. My reasoning is the material is relatively thin and easy to remove, not much material removal is needed anyway, the Dremel gives me a high degree of control and its a lot easier to take the material off than put it back on , I can put a grinding stone in the Dremel to remove the burrs afterward.

Many moons ago I purchased a real Dremel kit that included a flexible input shaft, use it constantly.

Recently I purchased a Chinese knock-off from Princess Auto for $11.00. Its a throw away tool, but has worked ok so far.

Of course, the cheapest way to do it is use what you have

John
Old Sep 15, 2008 | 01:21 AM
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Never thought of that. I have a Chinese knock-off with a flexible shaft -I've been happy with it for the odd-jobs that I've used it for . . . I'll try and find a carbide reamer / cutter. . . and I know that I do have grinding stones with my kit. Thanks for the suggestion

Ryan
Old Sep 15, 2008 | 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by maltesechicken
Never thought of that. I have a Chinese knock-off with a flexible shaft -I've been happy with it for the odd-jobs that I've used it for . . . I'll try and find a carbide reamer / cutter. . . and I know that I do have grinding stones with my kit. Thanks for the suggestion

Ryan
NP, if you cannot find a carbide one, High Speed Steel works well for thin metal like car doors, BUT you might go through 2 of them as they wear much faster than carbide.

Princess had a 3 pack on for about 5 bucks. I used one up shaping new battery terminals, and enlarging an oval shaped hole on my inner fender. It did the job, but it was pretty much dead at the end. RPM & heat kills HSS quickly.

Remember, let the RPM do the work for you, the shank is so small on those things that too much pressure will snap it off at 40k RPM

Cheers!

John
Old Sep 15, 2008 | 01:57 PM
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Thanks again - went to my local tool shop today to discover they moved to St. Catharines . . . I'm hoping that Home Hardware or Canadian tire has something that I could use.

I checked out my rotary tool - I'm not sure if it is an off-shore brand: Jobmate . . . it runs between 10,000 - 37,000 so it will do the trick.
Old Sep 15, 2008 | 02:42 PM
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grinder would work best i think
Old Sep 15, 2008 | 06:27 PM
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Honestly, your jigsaw will be faster. I use an air body saw which is essentially the same thing.
Old Sep 15, 2008 | 07:20 PM
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jobmate is hit or miss.... some of the tools they make are really good, and others are total crap.

I had a jobmate drill that went through hell and back, and survived it all, even outlasted a couple of better name brand drills...... Ive had jobmate screwdrivers that have had the tips break after the first use, and other tools that've been good and bad.
Old Sep 15, 2008 | 07:31 PM
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You can always use your jigsaw to take most of the meat off, then the rotary tool for finish work.

Just about any air tool (nibbler, grinder, etc) would go through that thin metal like butter, or it should if its powered by a non-toy compressor.

I find cutting a small radius ( Say 3" ) to be a pain in the *** with a jigsaw myself, but thats just me.

My doors for example have a very irregular surface with a raised flange where the speakers mount, so no way to keep the jigsaw even remotely square to the work.

If its only speed you are after, i would say the above poster is correct. Jigsaw would be the fastest.

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