How this for a "stealth" install so far?
07-18-2008, 07:25 PM
#1
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 74
How this for a "stealth" install so far?
Hey guys, as much as i'd love to be able to show off the fancy blue glowy crap on my amp, and my new alpine type R's - Making a stealth install in my city just makes more sense due to the amount of thieves here, i'd much rather make it much tougher for a theive to take my gear than to show it off. Heres where i'm at...
First off, Christmas came early since my old gear got stolen - heres my new gear:
Kenwood KDC-MP538U
2x 12" Alpine Type R (4ohm)
Hifonics Brutus BXI11208D Mono Amp (1200watt)
(Also note I have a new Hornet alarm on order)
Well, my original idea was to mount my amp ontop of the box and make a "fake" wall surounding it - That was the plan until I realised how little height room I have in my trunk. So took a look around, and found a nice spot under neigh the carpet and wood panel in my trunk - fits perfect right beside my spare tire! I think i'll just mount the amp on a peice of flat wood, then bolt it t the car.
How it looks "naked"
How it looks partially nude
How she looks fully clothed with my box ontop.
As far as the box goes, I'm going to have my subs facing my backseat, and use safety screws (with allen key end) to put the subs in the box - I doubt most thieves would think to carry allen keys to take out subs from a box if they couldn't unbolt the box from the car. The latch in my trunk to push down my seats will also be cut, meaning the only way to open my backseats to get to the subs front, would be to use a crowbar to move the seats, or unbolt my back bench, or use the actual key to unlock the back seats.
thoughts, input, advice?
First off, Christmas came early since my old gear got stolen - heres my new gear:
Kenwood KDC-MP538U
2x 12" Alpine Type R (4ohm)
Hifonics Brutus BXI11208D Mono Amp (1200watt)
(Also note I have a new Hornet alarm on order)
Well, my original idea was to mount my amp ontop of the box and make a "fake" wall surounding it - That was the plan until I realised how little height room I have in my trunk. So took a look around, and found a nice spot under neigh the carpet and wood panel in my trunk - fits perfect right beside my spare tire! I think i'll just mount the amp on a peice of flat wood, then bolt it t the car.
How it looks "naked"
How it looks partially nude
How she looks fully clothed with my box ontop.
As far as the box goes, I'm going to have my subs facing my backseat, and use safety screws (with allen key end) to put the subs in the box - I doubt most thieves would think to carry allen keys to take out subs from a box if they couldn't unbolt the box from the car. The latch in my trunk to push down my seats will also be cut, meaning the only way to open my backseats to get to the subs front, would be to use a crowbar to move the seats, or unbolt my back bench, or use the actual key to unlock the back seats.
thoughts, input, advice?
07-18-2008, 09:06 PM
#4
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 74
^How do I tell? Its the exact same setup another guy is running on here...
Their alpine 1242D if that helps.
Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. - SWR-1242D
Their alpine 1242D if that helps.
Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. - SWR-1242D
Last edited by DocShay; 07-18-2008 at 09:09 PM.
07-18-2008, 11:53 PM
#6
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 519
I would also worry about water if you put the amp down there. Make sure there are no holes in the trunk. AFAIK the spear tire well is used as a drain if the drunk gets full with water.
Trying to make it theft proof is good, but my friend tried to do the same thing. He had a custom box molded to fit his trunk.
Not only was it almost impossible to be removed with it not being bolted down, but every screw was drilled + appoxied. They used a what we guess to have been a jigsaw to remove it.
Honestly I think the best way to thief proof your car is to make it look as stock as possible. If they think your car is just some average joe car, they'll pass it by.
Trying to make it theft proof is good, but my friend tried to do the same thing. He had a custom box molded to fit his trunk.
Not only was it almost impossible to be removed with it not being bolted down, but every screw was drilled + appoxied. They used a what we guess to have been a jigsaw to remove it.
Honestly I think the best way to thief proof your car is to make it look as stock as possible. If they think your car is just some average joe car, they'll pass it by.
07-18-2008, 11:54 PM
#7
you're good to go. Same set up i have, they're dual 4ohms, so you'll get a 1ohm final to the Hifonics. Looks Stealth, but as one of the guys mentioned, that amp will get hot with no ventilation in the summer. You could add two fans, one pushing air into the spare tire well, and one pulling air out (set on opposite sides of the wood cover) This will create enough air flow to keep the amp cool. You could also perforate the wood cover with 1" holes and just move the carpet when it's hot or if you're going to be playing it loud, or you could try to mount the amp on one of the sides next to the box.
07-22-2008, 01:40 AM
#8
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 74
Updates! Updates! Everyone loves those, right?
Made a pretty basic enclosure for it..
Wired up the Negatives from the 3 fans into the ground, and the 3 positives into the remote.
I did not make any sides, due to how compact it would have been - and judging by the design of the amp most of the heat will come from the sides, so i'd like it more open there. I made all 3 fans blowing air inward, since there's open sides, there will be tons of room for the blown air to move.
The 4 amp screws will go through the wood, with nuts on the bottom so it can't be removed from the 3/4 inch MDF unless you take off the nuts underneath it. Then 2 larger bolts will be put into the board, which go underneath my car with nuts. So there's no way to get the board/amp off unless you go under my car and unbolt them. Also, not to mention there's still a lid for the enclosure which is screwed on.
Can't wait for my alarm to come in so I can finally start putting more than just the wiring in my car!
Made a pretty basic enclosure for it..
Wired up the Negatives from the 3 fans into the ground, and the 3 positives into the remote.
I did not make any sides, due to how compact it would have been - and judging by the design of the amp most of the heat will come from the sides, so i'd like it more open there. I made all 3 fans blowing air inward, since there's open sides, there will be tons of room for the blown air to move.
The 4 amp screws will go through the wood, with nuts on the bottom so it can't be removed from the 3/4 inch MDF unless you take off the nuts underneath it. Then 2 larger bolts will be put into the board, which go underneath my car with nuts. So there's no way to get the board/amp off unless you go under my car and unbolt them. Also, not to mention there's still a lid for the enclosure which is screwed on.
Can't wait for my alarm to come in so I can finally start putting more than just the wiring in my car!
07-22-2008, 11:24 AM
#9
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 519
You said you hooked all 3 fans to the remote? You might want to rethink that.
What is supplying the remote? the deck? How many amps can it handle on the remote?
I really don't think that is going to work. Worst case would be you frying the remote(or the deck) on your deck. Or your fans will run really slowly/not at all.
Fans generally are 0.5A. So the best way to go about this would be a transistor. Use a 1K resistor and the remote (in series) to the base of the transistor, while the Cathode will be connected to power. The emitter will be grounded.
Put the 3 fans in series with the cathode and power, but the fans in parallel with each other.
You'll need a transistor of about 2amps to be safe. Your effectively using it as a switch.
What is supplying the remote? the deck? How many amps can it handle on the remote?
I really don't think that is going to work. Worst case would be you frying the remote(or the deck) on your deck. Or your fans will run really slowly/not at all.
Fans generally are 0.5A. So the best way to go about this would be a transistor. Use a 1K resistor and the remote (in series) to the base of the transistor, while the Cathode will be connected to power. The emitter will be grounded.
Put the 3 fans in series with the cathode and power, but the fans in parallel with each other.
You'll need a transistor of about 2amps to be safe. Your effectively using it as a switch.
