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How To Use Crimp Style Ring Terminals "Pics"

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Old 01-03-2010, 12:06 AM
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Lightbulb How To Use Crimp Style Ring Terminals "Pics"

Wanted to share with you guys since i have learned so much since joining. i also need to finish my big3 grounds.
Now i know there is already a ring terminal "how to" but this one is for those store bought crimp style ones that a lot of people just don't know what to do with. These are very simple things and they are easy to use.

I made a holding block out of some scrap wood i have laying around the shop to hold the ring terminals while hammering. this is not needed though. the first time i did this i used the sidewalk next to my truck. i just found a crack and placed the ring terminal in it. the idea here is to simply stop the terminal from moving around while you are hitting it with the chisel and hammer! a solid work bench, or shop floor will work just as well in a pinch.

i use a concrete chipping SDS bit as it will pierce the ring terminal, folding the metal in onto the wire. thus holding it extremely well. you can also use a small cold chisel to do the same job. i just happened to have the chipping bit on hand the first time i did this..

Tools needed,
crimp ring terminals (i prefer the copper ones), wire, Chisel of some sort, hammer, utility knife, heat gun or lighter (hair dryer works also. just don't let the wife know),heat shrink tubing (3/4" is perfect for 1/0 ga wire)im using double wall, wood block or shop floor (if thats all you have).

1: Get your tools together


2:You should have these already


3:Holding block


4:Trim the wire insulation



5:Place wire and ring terminal in block and use the chisel on it. i do the front and back of the ring terminal for better connection.




6:Put on your heat shrink tubing. i used double wall so as to seal the wire and ring terminal from the elements. If your plans are for outside the vehicle this is good practice. otherwise single wall will do. this stuff is cheap so no excuses!


im using a heat gun. use what you have!


If you look closely at both ends of the heat shrink you can see the glue that seeped out. if you are using double wall this is what you want.


Hope this helps someone.
P.S. im thinking of doing a split ring terminal how to. crimping and soldering the wire to the terminal. let me know what you guys think!
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Old 01-03-2010, 03:12 AM
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I like your holding block, results in less damage to the ring terminal. Very clean.
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Old 01-03-2010, 11:02 AM
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Great job, You just showed me a trick or two .
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Old 01-03-2010, 11:31 AM
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Even though you did not use a 'proper' terminal crimper, this is a good tip for most people who don't own one anyway. You get a sticky.
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Old 01-03-2010, 11:45 AM
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thnx guys, glad to help.
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Old 01-03-2010, 03:20 PM
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I am sorry to disagree with what you are doing. OEM crimp terminals are applied with very high force, hundreds if not thousands of pounds pressure to compress the wire and terminal. You are not achieving that with your simple punch dimples.
If that is all you are doing then you must solder also.

this is what you need to crimp battery cable Battery Lug Crimper

Then there are UL pull test that require 1 minute pull at 140lbs for 4 gauge wire and up to 250lb for 4 guage wire... Does your crimp meet these specs?

http://www.crimptech.au.com/pull_testing.pdf
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Old 01-03-2010, 03:33 PM
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Its much better in my mind the the everyday vice grips. And if youre wire has slack and gets pulled around in the first place to be torn out of the terminal you should properly run it.
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Old 01-03-2010, 03:54 PM
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for the $200 you spend on that crimper, you could buy alot of cable and use the chissel on them. ive never had a failure crimping that way, i use a vise and a large rail spike, never a loose connection nor need for solder.
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Old 01-03-2010, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by bart pyle
for the $200 you spend on that crimper, you could buy alot of cable and use the chissel on them. ive never had a failure crimping that way, i use a vise and a large rail spike, never a loose connection nor need for solder.
agreed!
the average user could not afford to purchase a crimp tool. for a few uses, it cant be justified.
believe me i test pulled on my connections to be sure they are secure! are they specified to a certain extreme.. No. do they need to be for what we as DYiers are doing... No. not to say that the testing for oem is not right. it is right. just not for what we are trying to acheive here. my crimp method works 100% and there is no 250lb pull on my wire. if there was, the insulation would tear before the terminal was pulled off. this would be more of a concern to me. not to mention the fact that there is strain on the wire which should not be there in the first place.
thanks though for the insite, i appreciate any and all criticism.

Dan
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Old 01-04-2010, 02:34 PM
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A lot of people use an impact crimper. Available for about $30-$80 depending on brand and where you get it.

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