I have POWER!!!!!
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1000 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,783
Once the binding posts were installed, I had a few other cables to figure out where to go. The purple cable is the fiber optical run from my deck to the H900. Also shown to the left side of the trunk are the H900 display cable, Alpine Ai Net cable, power turn on and Audison Class A bias wiring, and an analogue RCA run from my head unit.
Some close ups of the 5 way binding posts.
This is on day 2 of my work directly on the amp rack. On day 1, I decided to relocate every amp to facilitate better wire routing. The proximity of the fuse/distro blocks to the speaker wires on the old rack caused some noise. Here I’m remounting the fuse/distro block to be easily accessable from the trunk, and make 1/0 awg wire connection as smooth as possible.
[ October 23, 2004, 12:54 AM: Message edited by: PEI330Ci ]
Some close ups of the 5 way binding posts.
This is on day 2 of my work directly on the amp rack. On day 1, I decided to relocate every amp to facilitate better wire routing. The proximity of the fuse/distro blocks to the speaker wires on the old rack caused some noise. Here I’m remounting the fuse/distro block to be easily accessable from the trunk, and make 1/0 awg wire connection as smooth as possible.
[ October 23, 2004, 12:54 AM: Message edited by: PEI330Ci ]
Thread Starter
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,783
It seems I’m always drilling new holes in this rack. It sounds silly, but I’ve actually destroyed a few tools while working on this project. Some of it was my own fault, but you can really make doing this kind of project enjoyable by having good tools. Joke all you want about the Snap-On guy, but this hobby is so much more enjoyable having the right tool for the job. You don’t have to buy every tool in the catalog, but simply buy what you need to do the job right. Go to Canadian tire if the Snap-On van scares you, but my point about good tools stands. Now, in the picture below you can see how I started with smaller holes for interconnects, but punched out larger holes after wards. All of the drilling and cutting was performed prior to mounting the equipment, so it’s always interesting putting things together hoping things line up. During the 3 days I spent re-assembling the rack, I had to back track and cut or drill a few times.
It’s CHRISTMAS TIME!!!!!!! Well actually not quite, but that’s how I felt after I got the go ahead to cut up some Kimber Cable KCAG interconnect. I did NOT buy this stuff, it is loan from my Dad, and I am very appreciative of it. I started with a 1 meter pair and chopped it up into 3 pieces. These pieces range from 10” to 14” in length and follow the shortest path available to their respective amp. Where the interconnect comes into contact with a sharp edge, I’ve wrapped several layers of hockey tape around them. (All the edges of the amp rack have been filed down, so they aren’t that sharp)
POWER TIME!!!!! These are the 350 amp connectors after about a day of fitting and fabricating. You will notice one set of wires goes directly into the endcap of the Audison VRx1.500 amp. Once again, I used non Monster Cable 1/0awg wire to connect properly to negative power input on the amp. The amp is built to accept 2 awg power wire, so it took a bit of squeezing to make the 1/0awg to fit. The other pair of Monster Cable 1/0 awg wires go to the fuse/distro blocks on the second shelf. The connectors are mounted on threaded rods elevating them to clear the rear shock tower in the car.
This is the amp rack complete and ready to be installed into the car. All power, interconnect, and speaker wire has been connected to respective amps and the processor.
It’s CHRISTMAS TIME!!!!!!! Well actually not quite, but that’s how I felt after I got the go ahead to cut up some Kimber Cable KCAG interconnect. I did NOT buy this stuff, it is loan from my Dad, and I am very appreciative of it. I started with a 1 meter pair and chopped it up into 3 pieces. These pieces range from 10” to 14” in length and follow the shortest path available to their respective amp. Where the interconnect comes into contact with a sharp edge, I’ve wrapped several layers of hockey tape around them. (All the edges of the amp rack have been filed down, so they aren’t that sharp)
POWER TIME!!!!! These are the 350 amp connectors after about a day of fitting and fabricating. You will notice one set of wires goes directly into the endcap of the Audison VRx1.500 amp. Once again, I used non Monster Cable 1/0awg wire to connect properly to negative power input on the amp. The amp is built to accept 2 awg power wire, so it took a bit of squeezing to make the 1/0awg to fit. The other pair of Monster Cable 1/0 awg wires go to the fuse/distro blocks on the second shelf. The connectors are mounted on threaded rods elevating them to clear the rear shock tower in the car.
This is the amp rack complete and ready to be installed into the car. All power, interconnect, and speaker wire has been connected to respective amps and the processor.
Thread Starter
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,783
Here you can see the speaker wire tucked under the top shelf that will be routed to the subs upon installation. The second shelf was intentionally bent down to allow visual access to the gain controls to top of the Audison VRx2.400 amp. You can also see just how direct the KCAG interconnect path is. The speaker wire is terminated on the ends with gold plated banana plug terminals. These wires are tucked away in the picture to allow easy installation of the rack. The bottom shelf of the rack is made of thinner 1/8” aluminum, as it has less of a load to support. I also have an additional plate that can be fastened to the back of the rack to mount a possible 4th amplifier.
Additional power can be drawn from a single 50 amp fused output from the fuse block, or a 4 awg unfused line can be drawn from the side of the fuse block. ( I have additional high amperage inline fuse holders for the 4 awg output if needed)
Yes there are a lot of wires.
And the finished product. (well almost…it will probably never be done!)
After the better part of a week of work, I’m left with a pretty satisfied feeling over the entire project thus far. Things are moving along nicely, and I’m very happy to have found solutions to a number of wire routing problems that have been nagging me for nearly a year. Viewing the picture below should illustrate quite easily the level of flexibility that I’ve achieved.
With the back seats folded down, I can change which amp powers which speaker. The PXA-H900 allows the outputs to be assigned pretty well any way you like. So in theory, I could hook up 2 amps to the processor, assign the same signal to each, and do an amp comparison by switching banana plugs back and forth on the 5 way binding posts. Oh the fun I’m going to have! Also of note, is the ability to compare interconect quite easily; swapping cables should be a breeze.
For those wondering why I’ve run a 300 amp line to just my sub amp: I have discolored a 150 amp ANL fuse, and feel that I can reduce the voltage drop seen at the amp by going BIG!! (It says in the VRx manual that the amp can consume 300 amp peaks as well)
Yes it’s an SQ system.
Adam
Additional power can be drawn from a single 50 amp fused output from the fuse block, or a 4 awg unfused line can be drawn from the side of the fuse block. ( I have additional high amperage inline fuse holders for the 4 awg output if needed)
Yes there are a lot of wires.
And the finished product. (well almost…it will probably never be done!)
After the better part of a week of work, I’m left with a pretty satisfied feeling over the entire project thus far. Things are moving along nicely, and I’m very happy to have found solutions to a number of wire routing problems that have been nagging me for nearly a year. Viewing the picture below should illustrate quite easily the level of flexibility that I’ve achieved.
With the back seats folded down, I can change which amp powers which speaker. The PXA-H900 allows the outputs to be assigned pretty well any way you like. So in theory, I could hook up 2 amps to the processor, assign the same signal to each, and do an amp comparison by switching banana plugs back and forth on the 5 way binding posts. Oh the fun I’m going to have! Also of note, is the ability to compare interconect quite easily; swapping cables should be a breeze.
For those wondering why I’ve run a 300 amp line to just my sub amp: I have discolored a 150 amp ANL fuse, and feel that I can reduce the voltage drop seen at the amp by going BIG!! (It says in the VRx manual that the amp can consume 300 amp peaks as well)
Yes it’s an SQ system.
Adam
Thread Starter
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,783
Angus,
I'm using an Arc Audio XXK 4150 powering Focal 4" Utopia midranges and TN-51 tweeters. Power wise, I'm right on the edge of what the 4" mids can handle so it's a nice match.
Don't let the huge wiring fool you, this is an SQ setup. The XXK 4150 articulately fills this need.
When I spoke of comparing amplifiers, I have a list of makes and models that I'm curious about. Playing with new things is what makes this hobby fun, and right now I feel I'm well prepared to do this right.
On the list: DLS A-3, Arc Audio XXK 2500, Macrom M1 series, Audison Thesis, TRU Copper Series, and what ever else people will let me get my hands on.
BTW, all the pictures above were taken with a cheap a$$ Kodak 2 meg camera. I got it for free from points accumulated using my credit card. People that think you need a kick butt camera to take viewable pictures need to learn how to use a camera. Use a tripod, always use the flash, and get as much natural light as possible.
Adam
I'm using an Arc Audio XXK 4150 powering Focal 4" Utopia midranges and TN-51 tweeters. Power wise, I'm right on the edge of what the 4" mids can handle so it's a nice match.
Don't let the huge wiring fool you, this is an SQ setup. The XXK 4150 articulately fills this need.
When I spoke of comparing amplifiers, I have a list of makes and models that I'm curious about. Playing with new things is what makes this hobby fun, and right now I feel I'm well prepared to do this right.
On the list: DLS A-3, Arc Audio XXK 2500, Macrom M1 series, Audison Thesis, TRU Copper Series, and what ever else people will let me get my hands on.
BTW, all the pictures above were taken with a cheap a$$ Kodak 2 meg camera. I got it for free from points accumulated using my credit card. People that think you need a kick butt camera to take viewable pictures need to learn how to use a camera. Use a tripod, always use the flash, and get as much natural light as possible.
Adam
Adam, definitely has that industrial look! I know you said you intentionally bent that second shelf down but I can't help but think it looks like it is sagging. I suggest putting an end support on each end of the cantilevered rack if not for additional support but at least to look like it LOL You could just run a threaded rod on each corner from the bottom to the top, a nut on each end, and then a nut also under the 2nd shelf to look like it's adjusted to sit that way. It will also help with the rack not bending and what not while you drive and hit bumps and such.
Thread Starter
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,783
Guys, thanks for the positive comments.
The 2nd shelf, it was bent that way by a 15 ton press. It's VERY rigid. I have tried using my entire body weight on both the top and middle shelf and they bend less than 1/8" at the end.
That said, I think your idea has merit Sux. I'll look into incorporating it next time I tear into the rack. There is a back plate to the rack that ties all the shelves together, but I have't mounted that. (it's saved for more amplification)
Defro, I like the M10.2 as well. I'll reply more in detail on the "Toys" thread about that. I've used 140ft of it in my car.
Adam
The 2nd shelf, it was bent that way by a 15 ton press. It's VERY rigid. I have tried using my entire body weight on both the top and middle shelf and they bend less than 1/8" at the end.
That said, I think your idea has merit Sux. I'll look into incorporating it next time I tear into the rack. There is a back plate to the rack that ties all the shelves together, but I have't mounted that. (it's saved for more amplification)
Defro, I like the M10.2 as well. I'll reply more in detail on the "Toys" thread about that. I've used 140ft of it in my car.
Adam
