Keep popping 140 amp breaker?????
08-01-2007, 01:21 AM
#1
Keep popping 140 amp breaker?????
Hi guys im new to the forum here, my system is in my profile there.
Well i have an Elemental Design Nine.1 amp. 1200 watts at 1 ohm which is fused for 120 amps, set with a dmm to put out 1000 rms, so about 30ish volts, cant remember the exact number
The component amp has 40 amps of fusing on board, set with a dmm to 75 watts per channel, so it isnt pulling 40 amps and the big amp isnt pulling 120.
The problem is i have 0 gauge wire, a 140 amp circut breaker under the hood and it continually pops the breaker after a few minutes of full play, it shouldnt be able to pull that much amperage i was wondering if anyone can help me out with this problem, thanks guys
Well i have an Elemental Design Nine.1 amp. 1200 watts at 1 ohm which is fused for 120 amps, set with a dmm to put out 1000 rms, so about 30ish volts, cant remember the exact number
The component amp has 40 amps of fusing on board, set with a dmm to 75 watts per channel, so it isnt pulling 40 amps and the big amp isnt pulling 120.
The problem is i have 0 gauge wire, a 140 amp circut breaker under the hood and it continually pops the breaker after a few minutes of full play, it shouldnt be able to pull that much amperage i was wondering if anyone can help me out with this problem, thanks guys
08-01-2007, 01:29 AM
#3
Well i know taht 120 + 40 = 160, but it was playing fine for about a month, could play it for as long as i wanted without popping the breaker, and the way the gains are set it shouldnt be able to pull that much current, my alternator is only 105 amp max.
08-01-2007, 06:38 AM
#5
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 870
The main protection device should be double the normal current draw of the system to be able to stay cool.
Dump the breaker and install a 200 amp ANL fuse instead.
You likely have some voltage loss from a bad connection somewhere, causing the amps to draw more current than they would if the voltage was kept up.
The breaker itself is probably costing you... measure the voltage across the breaker while the system is cranked.
Dump the breaker and install a 200 amp ANL fuse instead.
You likely have some voltage loss from a bad connection somewhere, causing the amps to draw more current than they would if the voltage was kept up.
The breaker itself is probably costing you... measure the voltage across the breaker while the system is cranked.
08-01-2007, 08:38 AM
#6
Originally Posted by Starterwiz
The main protection device should be double the normal current draw of the system to be able to stay cool.
Dump the breaker and install a 200 amp ANL fuse instead.
You likely have some voltage loss from a bad connection somewhere, causing the amps to draw more current than they would if the voltage was kept up.
The breaker itself is probably costing you... measure the voltage across the breaker while the system is cranked.
Dump the breaker and install a 200 amp ANL fuse instead.
You likely have some voltage loss from a bad connection somewhere, causing the amps to draw more current than they would if the voltage was kept up.
The breaker itself is probably costing you... measure the voltage across the breaker while the system is cranked.
That system won't draw more than 100 amps continuous under normal playing conditions. Maybe a wee bit more if you're burping for comps.
Your circuit breaker is shot. Replace it or install a fuse.
08-01-2007, 12:22 PM
#7
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 870
Originally Posted by Tom.F.1
Not much sense using a 200 amp fuse with a 105 amp alt. You'll start a fire long before the fuse goes.
That system won't draw more than 100 amps continuous under normal playing conditions. Maybe a wee bit more if you're burping for comps.
Your circuit breaker is shot. Replace it or install a fuse.
That system won't draw more than 100 amps continuous under normal playing conditions. Maybe a wee bit more if you're burping for comps.
Your circuit breaker is shot. Replace it or install a fuse.
Fuses and breakers become resistive when the load approaches the rating of the device.
I'm assuming that there's a BATTERY in the circuit, that is easily capable of providing more than 200 amps.
Circuits should be protected with a fuse of double the expected average draw, to prevent the fuse from getting warm.
Just try and run 28 amps thru a 30amp fuse for a while and see how hot the fuse and holder get.
Your system is easily capable of pulling more than 100 amps, especially if the voltage is not up to snuff. That's why your 140 amp breaker is shot....it's designed to be pass 70 amps average.
The fuse is only there to protect you from a dead short to ground, not to restrict the flow of electrons.
