Myth about Guaged wire?
08-21-2007, 09:21 PM
#1
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 98
Myth about Guaged wire?
So I have 2 12" subs, an amp and some 0 gauge on its way. I am going to run it through my frame/under the car. Since I work construction there are big rubber cords running around about 1 1/4" thick. I asked one of the sparky's for some advice about what I should put around my wiring (under my car) to protect it from heat/rocks/anything to make me buy more.
I told him about what I had ordered so he had somewhat of an idea what I was dealing with, and him and his lead hand laughed and talked about car audio being over rated, etc.
I was a little disappointed because I love loud music and **** anyone else (my usual opinion but they were helping me out so...)
Anyways, he ended up telling me that the guage of a wire doesn't matter.
I didn't think anything of it because I've melted/burnt some 10 guage and upgraded to 4 gauge and it fixed the problem.
1. I just want some re-assurance on this as I'm not the most experienced with electrical and car audio.
I told him about what I had ordered so he had somewhat of an idea what I was dealing with, and him and his lead hand laughed and talked about car audio being over rated, etc.
I was a little disappointed because I love loud music and **** anyone else (my usual opinion but they were helping me out so...)
Anyways, he ended up telling me that the guage of a wire doesn't matter.
I didn't think anything of it because I've melted/burnt some 10 guage and upgraded to 4 gauge and it fixed the problem.
1. I just want some re-assurance on this as I'm not the most experienced with electrical and car audio.
08-21-2007, 10:53 PM
#3
it does wery well matter. amperage and length of wire run are determining factors.
for example 100 amps of current people think, and this is just an example, oh 4 guage. yeah 4 guage but if its a 1 foot run because your batts are by your box 8 guage would be able to work, but if you have a 20 foot run 4 or 2 guage would be way better. none of these figures are accurate because i am to lazy to look at the run/current draw chart thats on this site, but now that i have typed this all out i will get you the link :P
wire guide
for example 100 amps of current people think, and this is just an example, oh 4 guage. yeah 4 guage but if its a 1 foot run because your batts are by your box 8 guage would be able to work, but if you have a 20 foot run 4 or 2 guage would be way better. none of these figures are accurate because i am to lazy to look at the run/current draw chart thats on this site, but now that i have typed this all out i will get you the link :P
wire guide
08-22-2007, 12:44 AM
#4
electricians, especially old ones, are not the best guys to talk to about these sorts of things...most left the theory class eons ago and can barely remember ohm's law. It does matter and is very important to a well designed system.
08-22-2007, 04:59 AM
#5
Yankee
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,599
Originally Posted by masterstone
So I have 2 12" subs, an amp and some 0 gauge on its way. I am going to run it through my frame/under the car. Since I work construction ...
Originally Posted by masterstone
I told him about what I had ordered so he had somewhat of an idea what I was dealing with, and him and his lead hand laughed and talked about car audio being over rated, etc..
Originally Posted by masterstone
Anyways, he ended up telling me that the guage of a wire doesn't matter..
Originally Posted by masterstone
I didn't think anything of it because I've melted/burnt some 10 guage and upgraded to 4 gauge and it fixed the problem.
There is a previous thread on recomended wire size for power distobution
08-22-2007, 06:52 AM
#6
wire gauage is really important.
to small of a gauge of wire and you really stress the wire and the power supply of the amplifier. The electrician you spoke to is 100% false.
Also keep the wire inside of the vehicle (as was mentioned) to help prevent oxidization and damage to the wire.
to small of a gauge of wire and you really stress the wire and the power supply of the amplifier. The electrician you spoke to is 100% false.
Also keep the wire inside of the vehicle (as was mentioned) to help prevent oxidization and damage to the wire.
08-22-2007, 08:19 AM
#7
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 98
Well thanks. I figured as much as you guys said but again he is (or isnt) a smart electrician and I just wanted to know for sure.
As for running the wire through my car, no. I have a 1996 Cadillac Concours and so far its a bitch to do anything with the interior concerning wiring. I want the "conduit" that you spoke of to go around my wire (under my car) and right into my trunk.
I dont drive it to work, so that wouldn't make a huge difference, I just want the wire protected because I've had problems with wiring in the past and want to stop that this time. Thanks.
EDIT: Vroom, this is what I meant by the construction zone. I was using the cord as an example if anyone has seen it that is all. I car pool to work.
Since I work construction there are big rubber cords running around about 1 1/4" thick.
As for running the wire through my car, no. I have a 1996 Cadillac Concours and so far its a bitch to do anything with the interior concerning wiring. I want the "conduit" that you spoke of to go around my wire (under my car) and right into my trunk.
I dont drive it to work, so that wouldn't make a huge difference, I just want the wire protected because I've had problems with wiring in the past and want to stop that this time. Thanks.
EDIT: Vroom, this is what I meant by the construction zone. I was using the cord as an example if anyone has seen it that is all. I car pool to work.
Since I work construction there are big rubber cords running around about 1 1/4" thick.
08-22-2007, 10:52 AM
#8
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 326
[QUOTE=masterstone]
As for running the wire through my car, no. I have a 1996 Cadillac Concours and so far its a bitch to do anything with the interior concerning wiring. I want the "conduit" that you spoke of to go around my wire (under my car) and right into my trunk
I own the samer car just 3 years newer and i have 0/1 cabeling run through the car. now you may run into car issues by drawing that much current, ie eratic idile or the car surging, so just be ware. mine is ok after tons of work,
now the other thing thats concerning me.......... how far are you going to dissasemble your interior ? trust me take out your seats dont cheep out and just try and stuff it down the side of the car......... anyhoo have fun.
As for running the wire through my car, no. I have a 1996 Cadillac Concours and so far its a bitch to do anything with the interior concerning wiring. I want the "conduit" that you spoke of to go around my wire (under my car) and right into my trunk
I own the samer car just 3 years newer and i have 0/1 cabeling run through the car. now you may run into car issues by drawing that much current, ie eratic idile or the car surging, so just be ware. mine is ok after tons of work,
now the other thing thats concerning me.......... how far are you going to dissasemble your interior ? trust me take out your seats dont cheep out and just try and stuff it down the side of the car......... anyhoo have fun.
08-22-2007, 06:06 PM
#9
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 109
Originally Posted by masterstone
I asked one of the sparky's for some advice
08-22-2007, 08:00 PM
#10
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 98
[QUOTE=methodman0666]
Uhh.... I'll look like a fool but, I've done that with my 4 guage wire right now. reason being (a cadillac owner knows this) ****ing wiring everywhere and at the time I knew it was going to be temporary. Anyways I am not going to cheap out this time, in fact I guess I should do what you say.
As per the issues please PLEASE advise me a little on what you've done. I have a 400 RMS / 750 Max amp going to a 1000 RMS / 3000 max sub (both are premier) and i've had times where my car dies, idles funny, etc, etc. I'd be very grateful if you could just explain what to do. So far I have a 1 farad capacitor, new battery (getting another in my trunk because I can fit it and it will be relayed from my alternator, which I am using the 4 gauge I have now to do the big 3 fully and properly)
What else have you done?
ps: nice car
Originally Posted by masterstone
As for running the wire through my car, no. I have a 1996 Cadillac Concours and so far its a bitch to do anything with the interior concerning wiring. I want the "conduit" that you spoke of to go around my wire (under my car) and right into my trunk
I own the samer car just 3 years newer and i have 0/1 cabeling run through the car. now you may run into car issues by drawing that much current, ie eratic idile or the car surging, so just be ware. mine is ok after tons of work,
now the other thing thats concerning me.......... how far are you going to dissasemble your interior ? trust me take out your seats dont cheep out and just try and stuff it down the side of the car......... anyhoo have fun.
I own the samer car just 3 years newer and i have 0/1 cabeling run through the car. now you may run into car issues by drawing that much current, ie eratic idile or the car surging, so just be ware. mine is ok after tons of work,
now the other thing thats concerning me.......... how far are you going to dissasemble your interior ? trust me take out your seats dont cheep out and just try and stuff it down the side of the car......... anyhoo have fun.
As per the issues please PLEASE advise me a little on what you've done. I have a 400 RMS / 750 Max amp going to a 1000 RMS / 3000 max sub (both are premier) and i've had times where my car dies, idles funny, etc, etc. I'd be very grateful if you could just explain what to do. So far I have a 1 farad capacitor, new battery (getting another in my trunk because I can fit it and it will be relayed from my alternator, which I am using the 4 gauge I have now to do the big 3 fully and properly)
What else have you done?
ps: nice car
