No Power!! Help!!
#1
I turned down my radio, answered my phone... 45 seconds later, some kids chuck some cherry bombs and peel around the corner in their parents' BMW... I chuckle, and turn up the volume. No Bass.
Now that i've gotten home, I've checked everything. Ground.. --Ok. Remote Line -- Okay (thought might had fallen off at Deck). Power Wire.. Dead. Fuses.. Good, Direct Connect (Fuse Bypass) Dead.
What could have happened that would just cause the power wire to have a short or a break in it, just like that.
Cosmic Radation, the popping sound of the cherry bombs loud enough to slice the power cord in two!.
Honestly, I have no clue why its doing it, I tested the fuse by using the fuse and fuse harness, to the tester & battery Neg.
Some simple high-fly suggestions would make it easier when I take it to my buddy Frank tomorrow to have him look at the wiring.
Now that i've gotten home, I've checked everything. Ground.. --Ok. Remote Line -- Okay (thought might had fallen off at Deck). Power Wire.. Dead. Fuses.. Good, Direct Connect (Fuse Bypass) Dead.
What could have happened that would just cause the power wire to have a short or a break in it, just like that.
Cosmic Radation, the popping sound of the cherry bombs loud enough to slice the power cord in two!.
Honestly, I have no clue why its doing it, I tested the fuse by using the fuse and fuse harness, to the tester & battery Neg.
Some simple high-fly suggestions would make it easier when I take it to my buddy Frank tomorrow to have him look at the wiring.
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Take your multimeter or test light or whatever and check the power cable at:
1) the battery, right behind the ring connection.
2) the IN side to the fuse holder.
3) the OUT side of the fuse holder. <- 99% of the time this is the last place you have to test.
4) the next distribution point in the rear of the car, whether the amp or a fuse block.
Like I say #3 is usually the last stop. Then, assuming you use a glass AGU underhood fuse, disconnect the OUT side of the block and check for power on the out side of just the fuse. It may LOOK fine but it may be burnt inside - the solder melts out over time on cheap fuses and holders.
Barring a goofed fuse, the underhood connections are the worst for corrosion over time so that is where the problems come up. I would be very surprised if your power wire had a physical break the did not smoke the fuse.
1) the battery, right behind the ring connection.
2) the IN side to the fuse holder.
3) the OUT side of the fuse holder. <- 99% of the time this is the last place you have to test.
4) the next distribution point in the rear of the car, whether the amp or a fuse block.
Like I say #3 is usually the last stop. Then, assuming you use a glass AGU underhood fuse, disconnect the OUT side of the block and check for power on the out side of just the fuse. It may LOOK fine but it may be burnt inside - the solder melts out over time on cheap fuses and holders.
Barring a goofed fuse, the underhood connections are the worst for corrosion over time so that is where the problems come up. I would be very surprised if your power wire had a physical break the did not smoke the fuse.
#3
Tested the fuse, both sides. I disconnected the side of the amp from the fuse, and tested it, so it was going through the holder, etc, but for some reason, no clue why its not working. I took the power wires outside of the amp, and tested that way, so there has to be something between the amp side wire, not the fuse, but maybe the connector?
Problem Solved.
Fuse.. however this baffles me. In the case, the fuse will not work. However if I take it out, and test it that way, works perfectly... still carries a voltage.
I bypassed the power wires and ran without a fuse and it turned on the amp (no music, hehe).
Off to get a fuse. What type is it.. It is 40A, Small, looks to be the same diameter as my 4 guage power wire, and is about an inch long. Gold Plates, and if it means anything, an S-in the middle. The connectors are gold plated, with a rubber seal, It goes into an 1 1/2" long plastic container with screw tops (with the wires attached)
[ November 02, 2003, 12:33 PM: Message edited by: Fuzz ]
Problem Solved.
Fuse.. however this baffles me. In the case, the fuse will not work. However if I take it out, and test it that way, works perfectly... still carries a voltage.
I bypassed the power wires and ran without a fuse and it turned on the amp (no music, hehe).
Off to get a fuse. What type is it.. It is 40A, Small, looks to be the same diameter as my 4 guage power wire, and is about an inch long. Gold Plates, and if it means anything, an S-in the middle. The connectors are gold plated, with a rubber seal, It goes into an 1 1/2" long plastic container with screw tops (with the wires attached)
[ November 02, 2003, 12:33 PM: Message edited by: Fuzz ]
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sirsleepsalot
General Discussion
7
05-07-2006 10:15 AM
Premium Plus
General Discussion
1
09-16-2004 04:47 AM