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Power cleanup help needed. Pic supplied!

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Old 01-17-2010, 11:14 PM
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Old 01-17-2010, 11:25 PM
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In pro lighting power (concert lighting the field I work in) your main feed gets it's fuse (breaker) then if you tap off that to various devices they should get their own fuse (breaker) too. So off the jl specs I should have a 40a fuse on my 300/4 and 50s on my 500/1s.

I was thinking that should apply here. I'm assuming this is good practice.

I've seen streetwirez distro with both ground and power sides so I was hoping I could get a good bill of materials to clean it up. As for the relay side of things, I haven't found a car audio-centric one yet, and wouldn't know where to start to buy an appropriate one and what specs it would need.
Help here would be good too.

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Old 01-17-2010, 11:50 PM
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Old 01-18-2010, 06:05 AM
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Matt, incandescent lightbulbs draw the power they are rated for, but no one plugs a bulb into straight power. Lights like you're speaking of connect to dimmers and dimmers have are rarely at full all the time causing neutral loads to be higher than the actual hots. Automated lights (intelligent lights that move, change color etc) have electronic switching ballasts too , which again have all kinds if power factor issues. So unfortunately your irst point is incorrect and is actually exactly the same thing going on in the newer switching power supply amps on the market.
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Old 01-18-2010, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by matt5112
No because I think 120 dB is already too much.

You can't assume that his components are going to be running full tilt... thats just unreasonable. Check any waterfall, it just doesnt happen like that in real content.

I dont see that because theres no scale on that diagram.

From the alt to the trunk 2 guage is sufficient unless his headlights are dimming for extended periods of time.
for some reason i dont think he's going for 120 db. why would he have two 500 watt amps? you can achineve 120 db with zero subwoofer.

they wont be runniing at full tilt the whole time but surely sometimes. and those "sometimes" are the times you want your to work proper and not have fuses blow all over the place as soon as you turn it up to full tilt, no?

well if you dont see that and there is no scale on that diagram then where did you come up with "only 4 foot" of 4 gauge in his set up? you really dont know if its 4 feet or 40 feet then? funny guy.
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:29 AM
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:37 AM
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just want to point out.

I just want to point out that I dont think I have any issues currently. I want to make my install cleaner, properly fused at all points, and then there's the remote wire/relay issue which I genuinely need help with.

I appreciate all your input, and love the banter!

I could really use someone to take a peak at my diagram, suggest some gear from streetwirez or knukoncepts or stinger, as well as maybe introduce me to a relay that built for the industry and "looks" good too.

I've noticed there are a number of caps out these days that also have a number of ins/outs, however since I sometimes travel for up to two weeks, I'm concerned about battery draining. I don't want to opena new can of worms here so any input on products would be great!

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Old 01-18-2010, 11:15 AM
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Old 01-18-2010, 04:52 PM
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Thanks for coming out ....
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Old 01-18-2010, 05:12 PM
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lol, matt appears to have had a change of opinion...
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